Patcon

Be careful welding on the firewall. It is easy to get it hot and catch stuff on fire on the inside of the car. Ask me how I know...

Dinner at "Buckley's". It was very good and not unreasonable. Seems like a nice family owned restaurant. If you're close and looking for food...

Boring versus honing will ultimately be determined at the machine shop with dial bore indicators. If the bores are round and true, honing should be fine. The Japanese steel in these engines is very good and normally doesn't wear dramatically. The other info provided is all good stuff. The new engines is using oil and blowing smoke? Are you gonna switch back or run the F54 you swapped in? The motor that has been sitting may take some time to quit smoking and seal up. How many miles have you put on it so far?

Take the new key from the ignition and the two door locks, hatch lock and the glove box latch to a locksmith. He aught to be able to rekey them for you. Don't go without the locks in hand because he will want to see them!

New injectors? What are they? Where did you source them? They could be larger or leaking which would contribute. Check the plugs first, if it's running really rich they will be black.

That looks like a good deal.

They look good. Especially considering the heavy undercoat.

How did you get the backs clean?

That's the way I would do it. Just remember if you go from dry onto rain soaked roads you may need to adjust it for the wet roads.

The coil is one concern but the ignition module is a different issue entirely. I believe it is the black box on the distributor, someone can confirm this for me. When they start failing they get how\t and quit working. You could probably do this test in the driveway like the previous test. Run the car until it stalls, then cool the module and see if it will start.

What kind of controller? How does it adjust? My Prodigy has 3 settings and I pick the one that is the smoothest without locking up the trailer brakes...

Jai Do you have a way to cool the ignition module. Compressed air in a can like you would use to blow computers clean? An air compressor and a blow gun? Possible a freezy pack wrapped in a towel? If the car won't start on Ether (starting fluid) I would suspect a bad ignition module. You could run the car till it stalls then cool the module and see if it will start. This is a fairly common problem on modules that are going bad.

A little far for me but probably a really good buy

Still that's no fun. It is always nicer to choose you time for a rebuild, but I am sure you will take care of it right judging by your previous work. If I can help in anyway let me know.

This may be in the wrong sub forum, feel free to relocate. I was trying to log onto Classic Zcar from my phone in preparation for Zcon but all I get is a white screen. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

Looks great!

I tend to agree with Kurby in general terms. I have a 2003 F250 diesel, not real fast but super strong.

I would have used the shock mounting holes instead of the shocks, but a stripped chassis is not very heavy

What happened exactly? I hate that for you...

Hand-made gaskets aren't cheap. The factory parts costs how much?

What Beerman said ^^^^

If the mechanical pump is not being actuated then I believe the pump is dead-headed. It will be noisy if it is dead-headed.

Chickenman I believe that is a cover plate for a 4x4 metal electrical box. They are pretty stiff. You could bend it if you tried but they aren't overly flimsy. Not as stiff a 1/8" plate though.

If it's fixed leave it alone! Don't break what isn't broken...

I don't believe so, but someone else will have to verify. I recall having to swap some at one point because of bolting issues