Patcon

The early hinges are hard to find. 26th is probably right, repair is probably easier than sourcing one. they can rust badly and when they do the little scissors arms just fold up...

You replaced the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, did you use remanufactured parts or new parts?

The pushrod on the master cylinder side of the booster just sits inside the booster. There is a small rubber disc maybe an 1" in diameter and a 1/4" thick that just sits between the pushrod and the main plastic disc inside the booster. If you pull out the pushrod to adjust it, the disc can fall down into the booster. Then you have to remove the booster and shake it to try to get the disc out. No fun! The brakes should get firm. If they don't I would suspect worn rubber brake lines flexing or air in the system somewhere. Make sure the bleed screws on the front calipers are on the top! Sometimes you have to resort to really tight channel locks to get the brake lines loose but many times that requires some new lines

Zed You are probably right. I didn't look that close at the price or bids. I saw the hole behind the headlight bucket, which is an odd place. Some one asked for more pictures in the question and answer section. If the rest of the car isn't real rusty it could be interesting. One upside to a salvage car is you wouldn't have to be as afraid to drive it, since it's already branded and should be a little cheaper to get into to

I thought it was a really bright metallic color for the year, that's why I wondered if it was original as I believe they claimed

Is this an original color? I like it. I don't know if I have ever seen one that color... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/252511939601?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3acae26c11:g:27gAAOSwIgNXvifY&item=252511939601

The repairs look good, but who knows. Already $4k plus... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/182252121775?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a6f12aeaf:g:jf0AAOSwV0RXulM9&item=182252121775

It's back... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/162178550187?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25c29849ab:g:USMAAOSwcL5XNPOH&item=162178550187

If the push rod from the master cylinder through the booster is adjusted too long then the fluid can't push back from the brakes. They getter firmer and firmer and then heat up causing them to lock down. If you crack open a bleed port, fluid will probably spurt out and the car will roll again...It can be trial and error to get the booster rod adjusted right. Don't drop the reaction disc!!!

Sounds like a good plan for a next step. Be careful...

Look on the side of the head and see if there are any identifying casting numbers

Forks will work to separate ball joints but they typically destroy the dust boots if you ever work on one where they are good...

Mathew, Are you asking about gains from boring a stock L24 block? If you are, there aren't going to be any! Admittedly there will be some small gain but it will be negligible. Not worth the cost. Also does your $150 increase in building cost include the new pistons and rings? That seems kind of cheap for the machine work and the new parts... Now increased compression will help but the small over bore not so much

The car is fixable if someone is properly motivated. I fixed a 330Ci for my wife's daily driver a while back where both rear quarters were buckled. Put it on the rack and they both pulled out. You would need a good frame man, a quarter and a tail light panel...As it sits the car is worth what someone will pay for it. I have seen Z's selling at the salvage auctions for $1,500 - $3,500 for really nice cars with lighter hits...

I would agree the car is probably in the mid teens maybe a little more. One place to look is Ebay in completed auctions. Look for cars that are in similar condition to support your valuation. I agree with Pop's her insurance is going to low ball you. A lawyer might be necessary

If you have a good fitting open end wrench get a short section of pipe that fits over the other end of the wrench to increase your leverage

What are you asking for the car the way it sits? Is it at a salvage auction?

If you look down the hole, the crack seems pretty deep and if you look closely at the head the crack seems to run between the two holes. The welding questions is probably better for the shop who will weld it

I believe Chas rebuilt one... @EuroDat

This is true! Although I would think a $233k boat has a locked area at least as secure as a Z... although nice Datsun's are now trading at $25k, in 7 years they will be pushing double that if things don't change. I would think easily stolen, $50k cars would be appealing to someone who has a way to ship them overseas...

If you get the TSB's scanned I suggest you download them to the resource area of the site. They will be available and backed up that way

I wonder if a phone or Lojack concealed in the car gives off a similar RF signal...

This was an interesting review on the device "SPOT Trace led me to believe that my boat would be safe using this device and their service. Truth is the day my $233,000 boat was stolen it didn't do a thing. Why? Because these SPOT Trace devices can be easily found due to the fact that they emit an RF frequency to communicate with GPS satellites. Anyone can buy an RF detector here on Amazon that will tell a thief if your boat, motorcycle or car has one. They simply find the hidden device, turn the device off or remove the batteries and your car boat, truck, or motorcycle disappears! When we told the police officer taking the report we had satellite tracking on the boat he said those are worthless. A thief who knows his trade will not let a tracking device like SPOT Trace get in his way. SPOT won't tell you this. They lead you to believe your vehicle is protected. That's not always the case. SPOT Trace is no deterrent for a professional thief!"

Lots of 1 star reviews this one only has 8 reviews but they are all pretty good