Patcon

Ouch!

You could always file a police report, that will put the VIN in the system and it may turn up somewhere.

I have several dashes that are cracked and I plan to try my hand at repairing them based on the dash repair thread floating around here somewhere. Maybe some one can post the link here for you...The leather cover kit sounds even harder to install than repairing the existing dash. It seems crazy to me to pay a ton of money that is likely to crack easily anyway. There are also several companies (one is in California I believe) that will re-vacuum form the dash cover for about $1500. If you want it to be perfect and aren't a do-it-yourselfer that is probably the way to go. Somebody will remember them for me too, probably. My memory is not what it use to be

My question for Zed Head is this, with the warped head laying on its side will the cam still turn with out binding. I suspect it will. I would think the combined bearing tolerances from the middle tower and one end or the other easily exceeds the .007 warped. Plus when its bolted down most of that warpage goes away. So even if you just shave the bottom of the head to dress it flat the cam would still operate properly once it was bolted down

Was the crack to the right of the small puncture there earlier???? If so why are you worried about the tiny screw puncture? As for a NOS dash, good luck with that, they are pushing $2000 and they are 40 years old if you can find one.By the time you ship it to Panama it won't be undamaged any more. Lastly I wouldn't let any mechanics shop that isn't smart enough not to run screws up through the top of my dash, repair it for me!!!

Nomukin, Did you mark the pulley red? Also did you scratch the timing cover and mark it red too? It looks like an added reference point for lack of timing marks. Also I find white on the pulley mark works better than red for visibility.

I never had any problems with squealing brakes, maybe once, so I guess I am not the definitive test case. I haven't used it on a "nothing stops the squeal" set of brakes...

I have used the CRC stuff too, along with a product called "Pig Squeal" or something like that.

What seats are in your Alfa?

Our Datsun 510 has a glass window on the float bowl. How is the glass filter bowl any more of a hazard than a plastic filter? I would think the glass is thicker and would take a harder strike than a plastic filter. What am I missing?

I would take a factory five car over any original cobra barring the value issue. Newer, better engineering and don't have to worry about miles or insurance on your million dollar car. I would think the Super bird is worth more like $300k or so the last time I looked.

I may have that panel on a later s30 chassis. I would expect them to all be the same. As for replacing the entire panel, that's going to be a lot of work. There are multiple layers at the rear of the transmission tunnel that would have to be separated and multiple layers out near the wheel wells also. If you separate all of those to get the panel out you are going to have to take measures to keep the car straight. If it were mine I would never consider dealing with the 200 or so spot welds to fix the speaker holes. You could either get some one to make you some patch panels with the correct beading or you could get a factory panel and cut your own patches out of it. In the end it's almost all covered anyway...

Thanks

I would love to spend some time on 66. Looks like fun. Thanks for sharing.

Very nice...

That would be very interesting...

Good eye Jim

I was thinking you might use a self tapper then back it out and JB weld it and replace the self tapper. Sort of double it up...

One thing to remember when you blast is you are removing material and roughing the surface. Because of that I typically protect mating surfaces with blue tape.

When is my new head gonna be ready?

Mart, You live in a pretty area it seems and a much denser population than where some of the other members are. The map of your area, shows major roads every few kilometers or so, but where JIm is in Calgary, once you are outside of the city you can end up in "no mans land" pretty quick with the next major road a 100 miles or more away and no passenger rail to hop on to get home. While I appreciate a totally stock vehicle, I have no problems switching to a high volume domestic part for our cars. The conversion is easily reversible and makes long distance travel easier.

John, What would you recommend as a step up from stock?

I wonder if he can really get $6000 for it with rust issues and a v-8 conversion...

Lurch Thanks for the reply. I understand that all horsepower is not the same and even between Dynos numbers very greatly but they do give a starting point to base observations on. I am not surprised as to expected costs. There was a tremendous amount of work put into the engine and transmission. $4000... ouch...

I run 2 regulators. I have a Sharpes dryair system where I regulate down to about 50-60 psi and then I have a small inline gauge at the gun and regulate that down to where it sprays the way I want. Nix's question referring to tip size is important too. Primers don't flow well through smaller tips. The P sheets will also make tip suggestions for their products. FWIW I would think 20 psi is too low...you need to regulate right at the gun because there is pressure loss in the hose...