jfa.series1

With all this leather, where do you plan to install the chains?

Looks like one of those new-fangled 401.Z retirement plans!

It looks like poster 240ZX is trolling old threads and promoting HybridZ.

DJ - consider epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth to repair the door cards. I did that for a couple of clasp holes that were damaged with great results. This can also stiffen the card after you get the warp out.

Because the factory did not paint it that way. I chose to match the surfaces and pattern as it came from the factory, just a different finish.

Please stop with the "exactly" - its a bit irritating. I painted the same area as Nissan but its not "exact" because I used gloss paint for the reasons I explained. I don't know why other don't paint this area. It will take only an ounce or two to paint that bulkhead. Since Nissan never used POR-15, you should use it wherever you think its needed. As to more pictures, of course I do. Many of them are in this YouTube video I made up of my restoration project but don't expect me to clutter this forum with them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7L1oxFQMfcU

I think it was part of the continuous improvement process and cost management. Two nuts per side are more costly and take longer to install.

Hi DJ, I'd say that only reinforces Carl Beck's comments about the randomness of the assembly line. Your's is a December car, right? They were probably built within a few days of each other. Trivia: I just noticed that was my 1,000th post. Woohooo! Jim

Be careful about any BRE Tribute-like designs. They have copyrights and are serious about them.

The complete engine bay should be painted in the body color if you are planning to stick with the factory approach. The front of the radiator bulkhead was painted in a dull (not flat) black originally. I chose to use a gloss black to make it easier to keep clean. Satin black would be a good option that would be closer to the original factory look but still pretty easy to keep clean. Flat black will hold dirt and is not easy to clean. Check the picture closely - there are five mounting points for the grill that also get painted black.

Well... I did buy one off the showroom floor, the T/C rods came double-nutted and they're still that way.

Looks really good. Consider a good rub down with Nevr-Dull to keep it that way. http://www.nevrdull.com/

To clarify your question - are your referring to the sheet metal valance under the grill or the gray/black air dam under the valance?

I think the "set" reference means to always replace them both at the same time. A failing alternator is likely to damage the voltage regulator and if you replace just the alternator, the badly regulated current will possibly take out the battery.

Super great stealth project! So glad to have met all of you guys at ZCON as I can put a face and personality to each of you participating in the effort.

Bruce - I seriously doubt that your Z is ever "neglected". Perhaps not driven as often as you like but not ever neglected. BTW - great pic!

I have Dave's harness on my car, see if this pic helps. The harness is the ribbed one, this is at the right side - two plugs and the ground are visible. I also have his turn signal harness installed and in this pic so don't get confused. The ideal location for the relays is beside the voltage regulator with one of its mounting screws.

Lets get some emotional discussion going. With Renault in control of Nissan, could the new Alpine possibly provide the platform for a new Z? http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2016/02/16/voila-renault-reveals-alpine-vision-sports-car/?intcmp=hpff

+ 1 on Mike at Banzai. You won't be disappointed.

That's a great photo series! I suspect the more Cody finds himself in the pics, the more his project ownership will continue to ratchet right up. He's a very fortunate young man to have this guidance. Good job, Dad!!!

The dealer had already installed the 1st-gen BRE Spook and rear spoiler on my car when I bought it back in '71, they painted both in body color. I stuck with these choices when I resto'd the car. My general observation is that body colored front and rear spoilers will add visual "bulk" to the car - provided the car is not a very dark color to begin with. Body color will also cause the add-on to better blend into or accentuate car's lines. I second Diseazd's comment about the use of small O-rings as seals against the body. As so many of us have said - your car, your choices.

Its all about geometry - the pivot point / base for the strut has to be away from the hatch frame to kick the hatch up from a closed position. If the base was tucked in close and parallel to the frame, the strut would be pushing back and not up.

PM sent.

Previous posts have said raising the rear end of the car by a foot or more significantly cuts down on the angle the leveler needs to handle when doing a combined engine/tranny install. +1 on your gearbox fill plan.

This is from a 05/72 issue of Car and Driver, wood and leather options on a shift knob but without the shift pattern. And be sure to check the list prices.