jfa.series1

I can't speak to the kits but my experience with local hardware and big box stores is that the available metric fasteners are what I call Euro-spec. That is, unlike our JDM-spec fasteners which are even number mm wrench sizes, the local supplies are always odd number mm sizes. I can usually get the correct thread diameter and pitch but have to settle for a "wrong" size bolt-head or nut for a non-visible fix. Trying to match a correct bolt-head style is usually impossible. That's why I and so many others hoard all the fasteners we can find from parts cars.

Check out this thread I started: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60079-ss-bumpers-from-vietnam/ You'll see I comment on prior experience with Taiwan-mfg chrome bumpers purchased from MSA and Futofab. I've had no experience with SS bumpers from Taiwan. I had very good results with the SS rear bumper from Vietnam. Another member in Canada purchased a full set of the SS bumpers from Vietnam, he might see this and add his comments.

Yep, that should solve the problem. I just checked the '72 FSM (BE-5) and find that wires RB & R connect to the reverse switch. Tracing the R wire it later becomes LR - consistent the OP's post. RB is the wire that travels to the rear of the car to power both lamps. I found the OP's diagram in the '71 FSM Supplement, page 26.

Here you go:

Steve - I agree with the logical aspect of your recommendation, just not the actual physical aspect. Looking at my car, the reverse switch wiring is part of the engine bay harness - emerging just below the battery. I still can't figure out the connection point in question. Jim

Joe - I presume you're talking about the fuzzy strips on the top of the door panel. A few folks have been successful at reusing the OE staples but this is a pretty tough process. Glue is not a good option for this install - probably why the factory did not go this route. I went with a set of 8 small pop rivets and it worked out well. A key trick is to get the rivet head well seated into the fuzzy material by using something small and pointed to pull the fuzzy hairs out from under the rivet head before squeezing the rivet down to finish. This will ensure the rivet head is not sticking out with the potential to contact the glass. Hope this helps. Jim

Here's a pic that explains offset. I think all S30's had zero offset with stock steel wheels. You can see that positive offset begins to move the wheel centerline inboard and that gets the inside of the tire closer to the strut assembly. Negative offset moves the centerline outboard which increases the potential for the tires to hit the fenders.

Hopefully you're only working with the center section without the ends attached - much easier that way. Something must have changed the arc of this section if it did not touch prior to rechroming. Did the chroming shop have to do any repairs to the section? What about the mounting brackets - any work done on them? You should expect about 1/8" gap (or more) between the middle of the center section and the rear valance panel. If you start adding shims or washers you may end up moving the end pieces back to the point their mounting bolts thru the fender won't line up.

@Diseazd Guy - Time for you to post another great pic.

Sounds like you are talking about a 240Z but we need some details on the year model car as there are differences across the years.

Absolutely - been there, done that. Check your local auto parts store for self-sticking closed cell foam weatherstrip. It usually comes in a variety of widths and thicknesses, I think I used a 5/8" thick product. In addition to the splash shield (shown), use the same product on the baffle on the inside of the fender where it seals against the A-pillar. Closed cell is important as it will not hold moisture. Be sure to remove all the old stuff before applying. Also - you can see the same material used for the pads.

Cliff - I just saw the pic of your car that you posted in the "Tail Light Issue" thread. It looks like you have the aftermarket bumper sold by MSA and others. If so, that is the model of bumper I had problems with because the arc of the center bar was too shallow for the curve of the valance on my car. That probably explains why yours is so close. At least you had more success than me in that you were able to get it installed. Yaayyyy!!!

Cliff - my OE bumper was about 1/8" off the valance at the center, the new SS bumper is the same. The "washers" comment was from Colin. We PM'd a bit before and after his purchase, he told me his brackets might have been a bit bent resulting in the new SS bumper contacting his valance. Hope this helps. Jim

The bumpers are my OE units that I had shaved and painted body color during my resto some years ago, swapped out recently as @Patcon says. The front dam is a 1st generation BRE Spook used by BRE only in 1970 before being replaced by the design now commonly seen. This one was installed by my selling dealer before I bought the car and I've been told it may be the last in existence. I've heard the color being described in several different ways but 918 Orange is a first. Tweak your monitor settings to get the car to look more like a butterscotch candy and you'll be close. Good luck with your project.

Glad the explanation helps. The color is Nissan 920 - Safari Gold, used in 1970-71. it was also used on Datsun vehicles other than Z's.

I found another pic that shows the drain hoses inside the cabin

The plenum below the cowl has a large drain hose at each end the empties into the inner fender area behind the splash shield and ahead of the door pillar. Without the fender off you cannot see this outlet.. If the car has spent a lot of time outdoors there is always some chance that debris has collected at these drains and might be partially/completely blocking them. Consider going in with something less powerful than a power wash to make sure the drains are open - an ordinary hose will do. FYI - these L-shaped drains are routed thru the cabin. Look up under the dash at the base of the windshield to spot them. Here's a pic of my car during tear-down, the large hole in front of the door is where the drain pops out.

Not just "well done" but truly "VERY WELL DONE!". Congratulations on a fantastic rescue and rebirth.

Welcome to the best forum for classic Z's. Great looking car, innovative and slick paint job! We'll be looking forward to your contributions.

Congrats on your find and purchase - looks like some pretty good bones to work with.

What shocks are you running with these new springs?

Well... with one vote for a US spec car, this looks to be a 280Z thing and not a Canadian rule thing. Shows to go my lack of exposure to the intimate details on 280Z's.

A Canadian cure for fuel tank flatulence??? Seriously (yeah, sure), I vote for the safety aspect. I've never seen this in US spec cars, possibly a Canadian rule.

Joe, Here's a recent thread with discussion and pics. Jim

Here you go: https://zcarsource.com/door-upper-molding-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new I see you found my 5-year old post on my fuzzy strips install method. I installed the squeegees the same way. Jim