jfa.series1

I can't recall anything like that on my ride, so no idea.

I never had any pushback and I have friends getting work done there now.

Yep.

That was the 1st pic I posted, here it is again. The clock spring was only on one of the batch of six I picked up, all the others used a coil spring. What was interesting was that five of the six bodies had the straight slot, not the "T" slot. Pretty sure the "T" slot was an improvement to retain the bumper - at the bottom of the pic. Sorry I don't have a better pic to discern the date codes. I recall one set was matched and an early date, I think they went to @26th-Z .

The lock core has its own date code. Below on the left is year 0 (1970), month 3. On the right is year 9 (1969), month 7. The lock assembly also has its date code. This one is Left, year 0 (1970), month 4, day 16 (I think). This pic is the assembly for the 0-3 lock core above. Just for grins, here is the lock assembly for the 9-7 core above, note the difference in the slot as you noted on one of yours.

I'm not sure it it made it the resources. Look for the thread titled 1970 Wiring Diagram in the electrical forum. Go to the May 1 post to get the download able PDF

Hey Charles, I found the same difference in the return spring on one of a batch of door locks I picked up a few years ago. The unique one had a date code of 1969. The later style coil spring was not yet installed on the one on the left.

Did you download the latest wiring diagram PDF from Captain Obvious? He has resolved a lot of discrepencies in the FSM.

That boss could be a surface for locating the part in a machining fixture.

You are correct in using this product to seal affected areas but only after the rust has been treated. From the product description: APPLICATION - Remove grease, oil, and other foreign substances using POR-15 water-based Cleaner Degreaser followed with POR-15 Metal Prep to etch the surface and neutralize rust. Stir POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating thoroughly, DO NOT SHAKE. Always apply thin coats, minimum of two. May be recoated or top coated when dry to the touch, typically 2 to 5 hours. Topcoat when surface will have exposure to UV light.

You don't want to seal the area until you have neutralized the rust. This is a great product to kill the rust and leave a zinc phosphate protective coating before laying down the POR paint. You an get it locally at English Paint. Been there, done that! POR-15POR-15® Metal PrepRestore rusted metal objects with POR-15's Metal Pep. This metal-etching rust neutralizer provides great adhesion for coatings on any type of metal surface.

One of the highest zinc content, non-synthetic oils available, perfect for our L-series engines.

@AZ 240 Care to chime in?

Bruce, Many thanks for all your hard work on this project. Jim

CO, the condensor on my coil is connected to the + post along with the B/W wire. Also, a condensor is on my alternator as you pictured.