Zed Head

I think that those are just mold/casting numbers. Same part design, same factory, just different forming stations. They're all collected together then sent off to another manufacturing station for the pad attachment and final machining.

I had that problem. The control wire is bent. Somebody moved it too fast or it was stuck in the sheath and they forced it. Take it apart and you'll see. If you're careful you can straighten it out and it will work again. Edit - actually I just remembered that I bought a new piece of wire at the hardware store and bent the ends to make a new control wire. The straightened wire worked but it wasn't smooth when the fixed bent part entered the sheath. Still had a small kink in it.

Look at the right front fender rust. Two white Z's...

Never mind, he said it in the ad. No titles. The "70" has a 5 speed. I have two Z’s one 1970 five speed and 1973 auto. They are no longer viable restoration s. Lots of good parts. Let me know what you want. Will entertain offers for both. No titles. Would be open to an outright purchase of both cars. Make me an offer before all the good parts are gone !

I was thinking of the power supply wires from the harness. You can check those with a meter or test light with the engine running. Pretty sure the testing methods are described in the two links that CO provided.

Aren't there "known" strikers out there to compare to? What's on your 12/70 strikers? Just sayin', just curious...

Maybe you'll get lucky and the old one is just bad. Without power though, the new one won't work correctly either. Wasn't really clear in your original post if the AAR itself reached full temperature. People often disconnect the coolant hoses that supply the heating block under the AAR. There's more to the system than just the AAR. Anyway, you'll have an extra if you find out that the problem is in the wiring. p.s. cgsheen gave a good overview of the system but I think that the AAR only gets power when the engine is running. Like the fuel pump. Actually I think power might be branched off of the fuel pump power circuit. Otherwise, the valve would start to close as soon as the key was turned on, but the engine would not be getting warmer. In case you decide to get a meter or test light out and check for power. Won't hurt to disconnect electrical while the engine is running. p.s. 2 - you'll need some skinny picks or small screwdrivers to get the metal clips off of the connector. They are very difficult to remove.

That was a lot of work in a short amount of time. Impressed. Well done. (p.s. go Sounders! ha ha ...) Edit - no offense. I'm just trolling for soccer fans. You might be rooting for the Sounders too... p.s. 2 CONCACAF Champion's League final tonight. USA team v. Mexico team.

Two leaky FPR's. I had several at one time and found that most of them leaked. The sealing surface is metal on metal. Any rust or imperfections will allow it to leak. I tore one apart quite a while ago. The tube on the left is machined flat and seats on the flat surface on the right, with the round marks on it. One other possibility is that it's leaking through the diaphragm in to the intake manifold. Pull the vacuum line and look for fuel.

Can't really blame anyone anymore for not having their details in their signature. The Editing process makes no sense at all. You have to go to Account Settings, then find Signature way over on the left in a long column of things. Signature is not a Setting. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/

Decoding and extrapolating, it looks like you want the side aka "half", shaft parts. "Drive" shaft in Nissan FSM terms. I'd get them from Terrapin, they'll be correct factory made parts. ZCD might not know exactly what they're selling. Z Car Depot does a surprisingly poor job of describing some of their parts, for being a specialty Z car store. It's not a place to go to learn the terminology. Easy to see how 26th-Z could get side-tracked. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=yoke&type=product

Funny, but I just noticed that 26th-Z actually described and showed the same part that you said you needed. The DRIVE shaft is the half shaft. The main one down the middle is called a propeller shaft. Not clear what your picture is of. Is it from one of the two on the sides or the one down the middle?

Not sure what you mean. You might want to start another thread specifically about your issue. It might get lost here if other people start posting about their day.

Looks like it wasn't seated properly and worked its way loose, or vice-versa. Flip it over and look at the mating surface. It might be beat up. I think TerrapinZ might have some yokes. @Terrapin Z

What area is worn out? The yokes have a centering ring, the bolts are just for clamping. Any halfshaft through the 1983 280ZX will work. Doesn't have to be a 240Z shaft. There are differences over the years but the fitment at the ends is the same.

Be careful unplugging it. I'd check for power first. It should have power when the engine is running. Like the fuel pump.

My mistake. Looks like there are actually two slightly different mounts for the R180 or R200. Weird. Even weirder that the part with an "up" side is symmetrical. And the unmarked part is asymmetrical. I'd set the new mount up so that the two stud holes are the same distance from the car body.

Actually (sorry) the auxiliary air regulator (AAR) is what keeps idle speed up until the engine warms up a bit. Pretty common for them to be stuck open or closed and/or not have power to the heating element. There are several threads on the forum about them.

Depends on R180 or R200. The right way for one is the upside down way for the other. I think. Vague memory...

Pictures would be neat of the cover Sensor part numbers or links too. I can't find any sign that Nissan made a thermostat cover tapped for a switch or sensor. 1983

Nissan went to aluminum front covers in later transmissions. That's not an aftermarket piece. Check the nose for wear. The throwout bearing rides on it and if it seizes it can wear a groove in the nose. The hole is a weep hole so that any leakage will exit before it travels down and out the end of the nose over the clutch disc. Like Dave WM said, make sure you find that shim. It's important.

Coolant passages have been known to leak in to the intake system. Maybe you have a cracked head. Coolant in the combustion chamber makes things clean. Have you noticed any coolant usage? My engine never used a drop. It was boring. Speaking of boring, how about a bore scope? Take a look down the intake manifold passages and inside the cylinder. Can't remember if you ever did a smoke test or if you just decided that you had a better idea, in past conversation. A smoke test will show if you have any vacuum leaks, and if you remove the spark plugs and turn the engine by hand should show smoke flow through the intake ports, and, if you wait long enough, through the exhaust ports. And, on ports - maybe you have an EGR port opened in the intake manifold and a rotted EGR valve. Each cylinder has its own little EGR jet. The borescope should see that if you get a good one. They have side view now. Here's a video from a guy that seems to know a lot.

This used to be a hot topic and John Coffey actually measured a bunch of half shafts, compressed, and found that they were all the same length. He had the work on his Beta Motorsport site for a while and then on a separate Facebook page but I think it's all gone now. I think the original subject was about why half shafts bind in 240Z when you install an R200. The question never really got a good answer. But at least a bunch of half shafts got measured. One of the Z books, maybe the Humble Restoration book, has a TSB in it about Nissan removing one of the ball spacers in the half shaft so that it would extend further, so a longer shaft suggests a newer half shaft. But, compressed they're all the same. In short, there's not really a left or right shaft.

You're down there in California Datsun territory. I think that he buys up all of the used Z parts he can find. You'll have to be really quick, I'd guess. Or travel.

I was on sway bar also. The mustache bar (aka transverse link) is installed oppositely for the R180 and R200. The FSM only shows the R200 for the 280Z. For some odd reason they ignore the R180 in the RA drawings for the 280Z, even though they include it in the Prop and Diff chapter. This is R200 from the 1978 280Z FSM. This is R180 from the 1973 FSM.