Zed Head

Anybody know what the spray bar is made of?

What is the history of the engine? It might just be old stuff from a PO. It might not be from the engine. Take a closeup look at the pieces. https://www.grainger.com/product/2NTH8?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQjw--2aBhD5ARIsALiRlwDogoTfMTMx_RTHvhnWZddPF8nFLTPLLMiR1zXuhgAOdJewK_mnQXcaAqNhEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I'm sure it can be figured out. I didn't dig in to the diagram. My brain is stuck on how to interrupt the constant power when the marker lights are on. "Summary ------- This procedure will enable the front side marker lights of any car to blink _with_ the turn signals (if running lights are off) or to _alternate_ with the turn signals (if running lights are on). Normal operation of the marker lights is not affected. The procedure works on any car with parking and turn signal lamps at the front, even if the turn signals are not dual-filament (#1157/1157A/1157NA) bulbs, such as on Japanese cars. Restrictions ------------ The marker lamps must not be single-wire designs which rely on the car body for grounding. If the marker lamp has two wires connected (power & ground), the procedure will work."

Is that the actual on-engine configuration or is it just bolted to a piece of wood according to someone's fantasy? I think I see some space between the carbs.

So, since Tomohawk has a 280Z, the question is still unanswered. I'll recycle one of the things I wrote earlier - it's probably possible, especially with today's microprocessor controlled lights. You could just switch the power supply to the turn signal power but then you'd lose the ability to use the side markers as running lights.

Edit - actually I just didn't dig in to any of this, I just got the impressions from looking at 280Z wiring. If it works, it works. Do they have a 280Z product? Apparently not, see below. So maybe the difference is in how the 240Z lights work, compared to 280Z. https://www.thezstore.com/Category/733/marker-light-upgrades

I wrote some stuff but see that there's a product already available. I assume that the side markers don't light up anymore though when they're not flashing. So, it's a tradeoff. There's probably a way to get dual duty out of that single filament especially with today's microprocessor controlled lighting systems. p.s. I'd guess that that also puts two more filaments on the turn signal fuse. Looks like they just tapped in to the turn signal circuit, not certain. Something to watch out for.

This is usually air flow but could also be coolant flow. Is your heater core intact or do you have it bypassed?

What does it do if you hold the engine at higher RPM than idling? Maybe your water pump is bad. And is your fan shroud intact?

This old thread might help. You can take some measurements before you take anything apart. It's the opposite problem, your clutch fork might be too far forward. The "collar" might be holding the clutch disengaged. Not applying full force. People have reported that also. Of course, it could also be an oily clutch disc.

And some communication stuff. https://www.thezstore.com/topic/email

Here's the WIP message from Motorsport Auto & The Z Store. https://www.thezstore.com/topic/stage_one

The dropdown menus under the car types are pretty good. They have categories. It's not obvious that they are there though or if you should click on the car pictures. I'm just trying to have some fun but offer constructive critique. Most people go to the site because they need parts. No time to work through the flashy stuff, just make it easy to find what you need. There is a small black arrow but is it obvious. Especially on a phone, today's world.

The correct words are in some of the descriptions but the search engine does not find them. https://www.thezstore.com/product/1045/clutch-kit-75-83-280z-280zx-coupe-non-turbo

Here is a "clutch bearing". https://www.thezstore.com/category/304/clutch-bearings

"clutch collar" https://www.thezstore.com/isearch3?searchterm=clutch+collar

Anybody noticed that the TheZtore.com, aka zcarparts.com, aka MotorsportAuto.com, changed their web site. It's kind of odd, like they had an IT guy who doesn't really know old cars go through it during the "upgrade". Some of the phrases are strange and searching for normal words does not work. I searched for "throwout bearing" and nothing came up, no products match. Searched for "clutch" and found a page for a "clutch collar", whatever that is. Nobody calls it a clutch collar but there it is. Searched for "clutch collar" and found some parts. The site is different but not so sure it's better. Opportunity missed.

The throwout bearing sleeve looks like this. The bearing presses on to it. https://www.thezstore.com/product/2158/factory-clutch-collar-75-83-z-zx-2-2-82-83-280zx-turbo-84-89-300zx-non-turbo

It's not clear what is in the "kit".

Did it come with a new throwout bearing sleeve (aka collar)? I tried to find the list of parts in the kit but the company has shut down.

Coincidence, I just posted this in the wrong thread. Not trying to jump over your post. Good stuff. Here's a neat one. Has some commentary about lime green color and the "Series's". Has an interesting air dam on the front. The youtuber is Dennis Collins and he's looking for a hub cap, apparently. His cars often end up on BAT or at the big auctions. He does big money cars. Says that they're going to try to get it up to number 2 condition car or number 1, whatever that means.

It's not uncommon. The internet is full of bad reman alternators. The reman shops only replace the parts that don't work, they leave the stuff that's on the edge. I thought that Remy was a good company though.

Wrong thread...

It's a 71 so it doesn't have any sensitive electronics. And 15.1 is in the range of the original external regulator. So probably not, but if it's defective it might fail even farther. Why not put the old external system back together while you wait?

Actually these numbers do look like a bad regulator, IF you are back-probing the S (yellow) wire. But, If the yellow wire is the wire to S and you're unplugging it to take a measurement then you are removing the Sense wire to the regulator. Anyway 15.1 volts is too high for a ZX internally regulated alternator.