Zed Head

The 5 speed was introduced as an option in 1977 as I understand it. Not sure what year your 280 is. I don't think you can tell if the transmission is original or not. If the interface between the engine and transmission looks factory fresh, you might think that it's never been removed. That would be a sign anyway. Otherwise, the numbers on the transmission are apparently irrelevant to anything.

You don't seem to be getting it. This forum isn't here to do WORK for anyone who shows up and asks a question. Your writing style is like having a guy walk up to you in the middle of the street, demanding help, but speaking in a way that can barely be understood. After a few attempts to understand, all you can do is wish the person luck and walk away. Just unload it "as is". Even if you get it running, it will take a lot more work to get it running well. Now back to more interesting threads, from people who put some effort in to communicating.

The engine might still have the high flow 265 cc/min turbo injectors. If it does, the 77 ECU will be dumping too much gas, since it is designed for the 188 cc/min NA injectors. You might be able find some stock injectors at a wrecking yard that will get you by, if that is the case.

what is the car doing now in your first post you said you dont know where the fusible links are now you say that you have replaced some do the lights still go on when you try to start it? if they do then you have a short somewhere you need to find that is what i would look for good luck.

Look at the pictures on the front page here to see how the Porsches do it. More lift! http://rothsport-racing.com/

I must have ESP... Yes, everything on that site is kind of expensive. But at least you have the list of parts that are typically replaced. Take that list and use this site to get part numbers - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/DifferentialGear/R180/tabid/1726/Default.aspx Then go to this site and put the number in the search box to see if it's available and get a price (I put a sample up of the pinion bearing) - http://www.courtesyparts.com/bearing-ba-p-351811.html You can order from the site or by phone, they're very professional and will get you the parts if available. Or, you could get the bearing part numbers directly off of the bearings and cross-reference them or buy them directly from a bearing supply house, like the one jmortensen suggested. The Courtesy Nissan bearing prices aren't terribly high though and you'll get factory spec. bearings. Here's the other pinion bearing, you can see why the kit from zcarsource is so expensive - http://www.courtesyparts.com/bearing-pi-p-350552.html Have you checked cheapest shipping available for a 70? lb chunk of iron? I got $238 using these guys - https://www.ipsparcel.com/rate.cfm

I also. 1976 with no EGR.

Should be fairly easy to find using Google and the internet, or even a few simple searches on this forum. Lots of pictures and descriptions out there. You could also post a picture of the speedometer cable area on the transmission (HINT) in your thread. More responses likely.

Hey, just came across this rebuild kit on zcarsource - http://www.zcarsource.com/differential-rebuild-kit-r-180-new_8_52720_65984.html Also, some individual parts listed - http://www.zcarsource.com/r-180-differential-parts_8_52720.html

Search the word "reddat".

I read an article in one of the car magazines years ago about a 67 Malibu turned in to a fast track car. The owner adjusted his anti-sway bar settings to lift the front wheel for photos, but he didn't race it that way. There was commentary in the article about how the suspension was so tunable that the owner asked the photographer how high he wanted the wheel for the shot. So I would guess sway bar adjustments as a possible solution but I'm sure the track guys will know more. Edit - by the way, you didn't say if you wanted more lift or less. Looks cooler with more...

Have you tested fuel pressure, and resistance on the WTS circuit?

Pea-sized is pretty big. All oil passes through the filter unless enough pressure builds up to open the bypass valve. With a hole in the filter there's no pressure to push it through the bypass. How much oil did you put back in with the new filter? The odds are not in your favor.

Just remembered that engines will do that when a cam's exhaust lobe is destroyed. I've seen it on a couple of small block chevy engines and a Mopar engine. That may not be your problem but maybe you have an exhaust valve not opening completely. Have you checked valve lash?

Firing order correct but wrong rotation direction? I did it once, the engine ran. Not well though. Correct is set from #1, counterclockwise. Just a possibility.

Blue, I can't see enough contrast in your picture to tell which way the seal is in. But I've attached a picture from the 1978 FSM that might help. I know the seal goes in in the way that looks like it would be the most difficult to push over the shaft. Lips to the rear. There's also some good advise on the clutch fork pivot ball (withdrawal lever ball pin screw). I had a significant leak on a wrecking yard transmission I installed. It took me a while to figure out that it must be coming from the pivot ball. Coarse threads equals big leak.

1972 240Zs came with carburetors, so your post does not make sense. Do you have an EFI engine in the car now? If you do have EFI, then you need a properly functioning temperature sensor. For starters, measure the resistance at the ECU plug and compare it to the values in the chart in the FSM.

This - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ or this - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ are options. Could get spendy.

I would bend a piece of copper wire for a feeler if I was going to stick anything in there. A long piece so it doesn't fall in...

Is it a P90 head or a P90A? The P90 heads are sought after because they don't have the hydraulic rocker arm pivots. With a good light, and maybe a mirror, you might be able to see the flat top of the piston through a spark plug hole, if you find a cylinder with its piston at TDC.

Reverse has no synchro gears. Try rocking the car back and forth while you're trying to get it in to reverse. The gear teeth are probably just in the wrong position to mesh. Edit - this will only work if the drive shaft is installed.

Thanks for the info. It doesn't show on the Barrett web page that I could see. The seller fee was in the FAQs, didn't see any thing but registration fee for the buyer. So you're saying that Barrett gets 20%, +/- a couple, depending, of the hammer price. That's way more expensive than selling a house. Edit - and the buyer's cost is actually 10 - 12% higher than the hammer price? So a $20,000 bid actually costs $22,000 - 22,400. That's some fees.

Lots of good stuff on the web site - http://www.barrett-jackson.com/consign/faq.asp#4 You were close BGM, maybe they've lowered the fees to draw people in. Looks like the seller pays the fees, probably 'cause they end up with the cash. More expensive than selling a house.

"Stopping like it's stuck" is a sign of too much advance. Not sure what you mean by "all the way to the right" on your adjustment. Turning the distributor clockwise is advancing. You might have your oil pump off one tooth. Or your plug wires off one hole (that would be 120 degrees of crank rotation, I believe though, so unlikely). Or your wires off one hole and your pump off one tooth. Something's off. You can either fiddle around with your plug wires and the other adjustment on the distributor or adjust the oil pump. But I would start over: set the pulley mark at zero (make sure you're on the compression stroke on cylinder #1), put the distributor at the center of adjustment (line up the two lines), pull the distributor cap and see where the forward edge of the rotor is pointing (the rotor turns counterclockwise), then put your #1 plug wire there, reset your firing order, and check your timing. It should be close to zero.

The u-joint sounds like a likely source. If you can crawl under the car, take a screwdriver and stick it in the joint and lever it around. If you see any movement, that's bad. Also look for signs of rust at the rubber seal around the four bearing cups. The u-joints on his car should be replaceable, available at many auto stores. More oil came out after his drive because the oil expanded when it got warm. I've had the same thing happen. zombie, there is no "slave bearing", maybe you meant throwout bearing? That would make more noise when the clutch pedal was pressed and would be more tied to engine RPM.