Zed Head

I think that you could put your coolant sensor on a switch and use it to generate the excess fuel. Whether or not the engine would restart is another problem though....

Is this you at 6:40? Kidding. Skynyrd's from Florida, I know. Y'all got a mystique down there though....

Not the greatest picture, and i can't remember which gear is which but do they look like these? One of them is 5th. Can't hurt, wherever they came from. Did you check the adapter plate bearings? Those are the ones that seem to get destroyed most often. @Dave WM

That's a good looking piece of pipe work and the price doesn't seem terrible. Nice thick flanges. Make sure to check the inner diameter of the premuffler so you don't add a restriction. It's odd but the factory premuffler is smaller diameter than the pipes connecting to it. Don't know why, don't know if it matters.

Do you mean 5/8" bolts in place of the proper pins? There was a whole thread about the 5/8" bolt on another forum. At the end of it, people were grinding notches in the bolt for the lock pin, essentially making a factory pin. It's good to know if the spindle pin supply dries up but there's no benefit to the 5/8" bolt over the pin. Use a torch on the casting and the pin will be easier to remove. The hole will expand.

I seem to recall seeing those. I can check my blown up 5 speed parts later.

I found a drawing in the 1976 FSM. The early FSM's don't have it. It's not very descriptive either, but it seems to show that it should be about 4-5 mm below the surface of the crankshaft flange. It's poor draftsmanship I think, the lines are misaligned. <Edit - actually, it seems to just show that the side of the bushing should be fully supported. The line is to where the rounded edge starts. Still, doubt that it's that critical. Just make sure the shaft isn't jammed.> But, it's probably not that critical, even though they specify a half mm range. You could look at the wear mark on the nose of the transmission shaft to see where it used to ride. If you have extra room on the nose of the shaft for the bushing it will work. You don't want to jam the transmission shaft though. I had one that wouldn't go in far enough and had to break it out with a chisel. The next one went in easy, but I got it from a different store.

You didn't mention the source below. If you liked what you had before, and you're not looking for a big project then just rebuilding it to factory specs would be the way to go. As soon as you start modifying, you end up on a trail of mods to make things work right with the last modification. http://www.zcarsource.com/piston-set-280zx-020-50mm-oversize-81-83-non-turbo-new_8_55194_50979.html

Just because... http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-coventry-warwickshire-41268025

How about the factory drawing? L= blue, W = white, B = black.

Are you sure that you can't see the end of just one thread? All you need to know is which way it points. A very bright light and a magnifying glass. You might also look for witness marks on the flats. If it's factory original, only one side of the flats will be marred, up by the point.

These guys might be able to help. Looks like they have either side of what you need. You might try looking for 0.5 mm over, instead of .020" over also. Who knows if the people you are talking to are dong the conversion for you. Confirm your bore size also, just to be sure that the machine shop got it right. You never know. Might find the right pistons but then find the bore size is off. http://datsunspirit.com/shop/86mm-bore-flat-top-pistons/

It's not uncommon to find bad part information out there in the aftermarket world. I had not even heard of Safety Auto Parts until this thread. 99.999% chance that they just acquired the part specs somewhere and are having them made overseas, for cheap. Doesn't mean they aren't good, but they're just sending numbers over there and receiving metal back. Somebody misread a document and put bad info in their catalog. They call themselves a parts "sourcing" company. http://www.safetyautoparts.com/

Nice. Is it one-owner? 35K miles is not many. How does that happen? Does the hood close completely or did you leave it open for pictures?

Seems like you have a bigger issue than just bolt torque. You haven't even generated pressure in the coolant passages and it leaks already? Not right. When you say cranked a few times do you mean it ran for 30 seconds or somebody held the key at Start for 30 seconds? Doesn't really matter much, just wondering. I'd refill it with coolant after confirming that you didn't do something weird like set your wrench to inch-pounds, or have a broken torque wrench, and see if it still leaks. A little coolant in the cylinders will be easy to clean out, since you'll be removing the head anyway if it still leaks.

The turbo engine uses dished pistons. Their catalog shows both engine types but says that they don't have the turbo pistons. Seems odd. They might have their part descriptions backward. https://www.opticatonline.com/part/safety-auto-parts-corp-sp123-engine-piston

Which head are you using? Look between the #1 and #2 spark plug holes, down at the edge. It will say N42, N47, P90 or P79.

People would probably buy a Cut "n" Play product. If the relays are common and replaceable, it would be a no-need-to-go-back system. Permanent.

You could make a new tab and mark but the dial back light allows you to use the dial, and the TDC mark (zero) in place of the tab marks. Set the dial to whatever you want your initial timing to be, probably 10, then move the distributor to hit the zero mark you created using the piston stop. That's how the dial-back lights work, all they need is TDC.

You said that you believed that you saw a mark. ?? It's just a crude notch. There is a method for determining TDC, using s piston stop, that you could use if you need to. All you would need is a file to create a notch on the pulley, and a piston stop, maybe a Sharpie. Ffind TDC, mark it, file a notch, set up a pointer...good to go with a dial-back light. Lots of words but actually simple in practice. You'd actually be ahead of most of us, who just assume that our notches are correct.

You could use a dial-back timing light. Actually easier, and if you change distributors, or recurve one, and want to know/confirm max advance, you'd need one anyway. I think that they're about $40.

1973 Engine tuneup chapter shows that 73 used the single notch. So you need the timing tab with the degree notches.

So the question of which side of the rings the oil comes from remains. If it's coming from the intake side that can really only be the PCV hose. If it's coming from the other side of the rings, direct from crank case, it kind of implies broken rings. Seeing it in all cylinders sounds more like PCV hose. But you said you blocked the PCV. And the odds of breaking six oil scrapers seems small. So here's a new one - how about the valve seals on the intake valves? If they went bad for some reason you'd suck oil down the valve stem and in to the intake runners. If your engine was built to a high consistency it would be reasonable to assume that the same part would fail around the same time for all six cylinders. Maybe the first high rev you did or similar.

Not seeing or missing marks? Nissan went to a single notch on the pulley in later years. Look for one.