Zed Head

Are you going to measure flow when you're done? At least to balance the six, maybe not actual CFM numbers. A mismatch in flow could make tuning difficult since the ECU (CU?) assumes equal flow.

The ECCS came around in 1981 with the Turbo 280ZX's. They did call it E.C.C.S. and it stands for what you're showing. But Nissan called the 280Z EFI control systems just "E.F.I" and actually just called the control unit the "control unit". You can see a good comparison in the 1982 or '83 FSM's. I think people just added "electronic" to control unit because ECU is commonly what they're called for most brands. And Nissan still calls the box a control unit, for the ECCS. Anyway, the first few pages of the FSM's are like school books. There's a member here, cgsheen, who recommends the later 90's era ECCS if you're going to go to Nistune. It's more advanced than the 80's 300ZX systems, but not too complex like the 00's and 10's systems. The key is modifying a distributor to use the CAS wheel. The real answer to the OP's first question is probably "keep the Miata". The old EFI systems aren't known for dependability, after all these years. There will be downtime.

Not clear if you're replying to me or the OP. We both have 280Z's. Shims are the key on the Z. I accidentally threw them away on mu Pathfinder though and haven't had a problem, over a couple of new pad sets and about 200,000 miles, on the original rotors (the whole car is now a longevity experiment). Must come from the design.

But you're hoping it's the pan gasket. So, the connecting rod was #1? If #1 was at TDC it would be up and out of the way, right? Just collecting those puzzle pieces for when I have to do the same.

It's almost impossible to get the Z's disc brakes to be squeal free without the shims. They sit behind the pads. Many pad manufacturers claim to have their own shims but the Nissan shims work best. Looks like they might be hard to find though. MSA says NLA. Seems like a simple shape that some enterprising Z parts business person could have laser or water-jet cut for a reasonable cost. A handy person could probably cut their own using hand tools (of course). http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5451 Part #15 - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/front-brake

The dash pot might need adjustment. It has what looks like a game piece or vacuum fitting on the top. Screw it in toward the throttle linkage to slow down the action. When my engine was running rich I found that the idle speed would drop lower when the the pedal was lifted. Sounds more like a minor tuning problem than a loss of coil power. You can use the dashpot adjustment to bandaid it while you fine-tune the rest. Also, advancing the timing caused my idle sped to drop more on throttle lift. Lots of little things can add up. Good that you're in to the small details now though. Check the roll pins in the shift fork if you get it that far apart. Also the wear pads on the shift fork. And the coupling sleeve. And the bearing, and the nut on the end of the shaft. Check the drain plug magnet for metal "clues" and the fluid for plastic or brass clues.

Can you smell the extra fuel? What are your mileage numbers? Just looking for something concrete to work with.

This looks more like you've just noticed something that has always been happening. Your tail pipe is probably in a different position and the new position allows the residue to deposit. It's not looking like something that happened during the installation. Cars without catalytic converters have dirtier exhaust fumes than those with. These cars will spit black water when they're cold.

I thought the guy handling the R200 application only did group buys over on Hybridz. Is Mfactory selling them independently now? Easier for everyone. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121007-mfactory-r200-lsd/page-4 http://www.teammfactory.com/

Actually, you've thought it out just about right. I wish I had before I changed my bushings the first time. Turns out that you can remove the TC rod and bushings while the car is on the ground, very easily. Turn the wheel one way or the other and you can get to the front bolts/nuts. The back nut can be reached from the top or the bottom. Trying to do it with the wheel hanging is almost impossible.

I found a secondary mention of John Coffey using Swepco, but it was for the diff. Also found one of the old threads about using it in the transmissions. Not trying to argue, I just have one of those weird long-term memories also. Boon and bane. Plus he responded right after one of my posts so it stuck in my brain. #14 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112152-super-duper-slick-as-snot-trans-fluid/ #2 here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51945-torsen-lsd/

We wish...

Actually, John Coffey is the one who said Swepco destroyed his synchros. He only tried it once. JMortensen is the one who often recommended it. I've been using it for at least 20,000 miles with no signs of problems. Heat is very effective at loosening up whatever sealant Nissan used on those plugs. A torch or a heat gun. Makes a huge difference, but can be nervy if things are oily under there. Heat gun better for that situation. I used the same filling method except I just moved real fast when I saw fluid leaking from the fill hole, and cleaned up the area and catch pan so that I could re-use the overflow. Overall, it's on par with the spindle pin replacement in potential problems. I have a 300ZX front case that had a drain plug that would not budge at all, no matter what. Probably why I got the tranmsission for $20.

High RPM grinding when trying to make a quick shift at high RPM, like shifting up through the gears for acceleration, and notchy shifting aren't the same thing. Don't get them confused. To add some detail to my 3rd gear situation - mine made a short "buzz" that I knew was a synchro problem. Kind of like rubbing 10 teeth on a comb against a desk edge. It only happened when trying to shift quickly at ~5000 RPM or higher. The AC Delco might do the job, I'm just saying that I had what sounds like the exact same problem with the same model of 5 speed, and MT90 fixed it. Details for clarity. I use a different blend of fluids in my transmission today because I had a mid-range notchy/grindy problem that Redline wouldn't fix. Swepco 201 and ATF. I'll probably just keep using that for all future transmissions because it works so well. But Swpeco is hard to find and you have to blend it and not many people use it and somebody's transmission ruined the synchros (probably coincidentally to the fact that they were in the middle of a race) when they used it. So it's controversial. JMortensen recommended it. He's also done some comparisons of the various fluids out there, I think. Maybe he'll comment. @jmortensen

I had a high RPM 3rd gear grind with a 1978 5 speed. Changed to Redline MT90 from Valvoline 80/90W and it went away. The AC/Delco product is probably good also. You might check to be sure that the fluid level is right first. Or just go ahead and switch to a better fluid. Make sure you remove the filler plug before the drain plug. Heat, PB blaster, breaker bar.

I think that there's only one for the circuit he's talking about. Brakes are on their own circuit, as are headlights and turn signals. Edit - just noticed that turn signals are shown as 4th down, but the fuse box cover shows that as fuel gauge. Nissan maybe ran out of space? Shown in the wiring diagram though. FSM weirdness.

Could be, or it could just be dirty. There's a round thing that spins inside a round thing, or close to it, with a narrow gap between them. Stuff can get in the gap. If you're handy you could remove it and use a drill motor to spin it to see if it still sticks. That takes the cable out of the picture. I think that I've read of people just blowing out the dust accumulation and bring them back to life. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+a+speedometer+works&site=webhp&tbm=vid&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNj8vd8sfSAhUDx2MKHfwqD84Q_AUICCgB&biw=1280&bih=890&dpr=1

There's a fuse too. Don't forget to check it.

From an 810? Or did you mean L28E? I'd list all of the parts and describe how it worked. Lots of mystery otherwise.

I wonder if you could spray the engine with soapy water and make bubbles like you do for a hole in a tire. I tried some of that plumber's leak finder solution to try to find an exhaust leak but things got hot too fast and it just dried up. The fog machine seems to work for many different purposes. To CO's point on the open valves letting pressure out, the closed valve cylinders will have dead-air no-flow zones in the runners. Probably worthwhile to let the fog flow for a while to let any small leaks let the fog flow in eventually. You could miss a small leak if you're n a hurry.

Wise? What does wise have to do with old sports cars? The ECU's aren't tunable or chippable or modifiable. You'd need standalone if you want to play around with tuning. Most people seem to go with Megasquirt due to cost but there are many more options, some every expensive.

I see. I like the idea of just sacrificing a nut over taking a chance on the stud. I bought a wrecking yard manifold as a spare and spent a lot of time and effort removing a broken stud and that was on the bench, with a torch, and PB Blaster, and a hole drilled through to get the Blaster in behind, and good leverage. It was kind of incredible how stuck if t was. It would only budge when the manifold was hot. I wonder if a cutoff wheel would be easier. Cut up what you can reach and chisel off the rest. Or maybe a different type of nut-buster. I don't know what's out there. I still have a nut stuck on a stud that I use as a bolt on my currently in-use exhaust manifold. It all went together right in the beginning but later the nut and stud came out together. I just use them in the hole they came out of that way.

No offense, I understood the first paragraph - you used a nut splitter on an exhaust stud to avoid breaking a stud. That sounds like a great recommendation for anyone who is worried about that and seems wothwhile But I can't get a meaning out of the second paragraph. I'm sure the thought was clear in your head but it didn't make it in to the words. This sentence just twisted my brain - "I am pretty sure the back the middle one with a swivel joint and extension with the windshield washer door up you could do, the other may be more of a challenge".

You might have mentioned it, but where are you doing your searching? A few people here frequent the Bring-a-Trailer site, I think someone might have mentioned it in your other thread, If you're looking nation-wide that seems like a good core to your searching. Here's one that seems to fit your profile. http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/06/no-reserve-running-project-1973-datsun-240z/ Edit - except that it's so old that the eBay ad expired. But still...

The bushings are plastic from Nissan, although there is a brass parts store fix used often. You can get them from Nissan still, try you local dealer. Can't remember what year your car is so no recommendations on what might be wrong. Check the bottom bushing also. They crack and chip. Did you take the transmission apart? It's possible to lock the gears up when it's put back together. You didn't say if the lever moved and nothing happened or if the lever won't move. http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/32855h1010 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/31 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/32