Zed Head

Indeed it does. The 1975 FSM wasn't available for quite a while, the 76 was a proxy. Nice that we have a correct copy on CZCC. I think that mine came from xenonzcar. The 75 FSM looks like it was typed out using a home-made typewriter. The worst quality text. Maye some sort of translation machine.

No, I'm pretty sure the wires are blue. This is from a 76 diagram that a member put together. I think that 75 is the same. It's smaller than whatever is in that pile of tape in your picture. Edit - wait, I see that the input wires in your picture are blue. 75 was the first year of EFI so they did some funky stuff. That's probably it. Edit 2 - a picture would be interesting. The 76 and later parts are very nice, plastic covered resistors. Almost a shame to cover them up in tape. Yours looks clunkier. You can measure resistance to verify. Actually you don't even need to remove the tape, with the connectors right there. But still...

The second video on this link is pretty impressive. I think that it would be a nice unit for triple Webers, which, as I understand things, don't usually use vacuum advance. With tunable timing, you could actuate vacuum advance at high vacuum and mid to high RPM, which would be like highway cruising, for better smoother running. They've also added an anti-theft feature, which is a bonus. I'd show the RS guys this video and the specs and see what they think. http://123ignitionusa.com/123ignitionusa-perfect-timing-for-your-classic-car/ Here are some better specs from the Dutch site. The USA site has dumbed-down the site, it's not worth much now. It looks pretty good, automatic "dwell", aka current-limited, high energy ignition. And they've gotten better since they first showed up. So they'll probably be around for a while. http://www.123ignition.nl/product.phtml?id=221 p.s. you should tell the R S Speed guys to open their Facebook page to the public. I can't see anything unless I log in. Might never log in to Facebook again. But I'll still look at other people's pages.

Just curious, but have you owned a Z or ZX, and driven one? Or did you just pick up an old car? No offense intended. I've not heard anyone call $800 for a used ZX 5 speed and flywheel a fair price. Might be different up in Buffalo though. Seems like you might be new to the world of Z's. Maybe surfing the California Datsun web site and getting wrong impressions. Did you drive the car before deciding to part out? Then you'd know more. Do you have mileage on the parts? And is the flywheel 225 or 240mm (coupe or 2+2)? Good luck.

Hate to badger you. But if you can put all of the small details together you'll have a better chance. Your problem is uncommon. Doubtful that anyone will have a "that happened to me" answer. You never know though. I'm going to guess that something has shorted in the voltmeter and and is somehow powering the pump power control relay and the Charge lamp. Not sure how that would actually work, it's a puzzle that my brain doesn't want to work on. Does the meter smell like burnt wires? Try unplugging the voltmeter. That might fix everything, except you won't have a meter or a Charge lamp. You'll have to take the meter out, it's pretty easy. It comes out from the back. Described in the FSM. If you have dexterous fingers you might get it unplugged with just removing the front panel.

I knew that there would be more clues. I would sit down with the FSM and look at wiring diagrams. And put the clues together. Does the Charge light (that's what most call it, not a dummy light) go out when the fuse blows? Does the pump stop?

Still wondering what the timing issue is. There really area a bunch of different ways to control spark, and a bunch of different opinions. Like iphone vs Andorid.

Did everything work correctly before? Is connecting the jumper box absolutely the only thing that you did? No other things that "couldn't possibly be" part of the problem. Seems like you might have short-circuited something in the pump power control relay, it uses the alternator charge circuit as a control mechanism. You could try unplugging it and see what happens. I think that the relay is behind the metal box by the battery. You'll have to figure out this picture yourself.

With the key on and engine not running check both pins at the T connector for battery voltage. Sounds like your L connection is not complete. If you confirm that there are several ways to find L and get it connected. S will have power with the key off. Might as well verify that too. All the stuff you're doing at the old regulator plug is just for the purpose of getting L and S connected to the T plug. Might be that you just had bad jumpers. Check for S and L at the jumped plug also.

You should use your super-duper iphone to do some searching. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.albertronic.x123tuneplus&hl=en

Here's a Monise/Datsun connection. One of them was a driver for BRE. https://www.datsun.org/fairlady/BRECrew.htm

The Megajolt Lite requires a crank trigger. There is a ton of possibilities out there. Probably get better advice if you describe the "issue". Make the solution fit the problem.

If Frank Monise was 20 when he started the business in 1949, he'd be 89 now. I'm thinking that his grandson Greg is probably the thief and Frank doesn't know. Frank Jr might know though. And they're all down there around Rancho Cucamonga. Seems like a thieves den for Datsun parts. People just don't realize that everything we do is on the internet. And they put it out there, with their stories of "legendary and famous". Doubt that the fame was for gouging customers and selling fake parts. Stanceworks has promoted thieves before, there was a guy, Senza Pari, who ripped off many people. Wasn't there a guy from the Vintage Racing League onhere a while ago. Now they're sullied. Frank probably started out as an honorable guy. Nepotism does something to people. I'm a little over the top here, but all of this stealing and lying that's on the news every day is getting to me. http://www.thevrl.com/profile/GregMonise http://www.stanceworks.com/2016/05/frank-monise-motors-mating-power-precision-and-perfection/ https://www.mgexp.com/member/eprodb http://www.frankmonisemotors.com/

I had a tach problem with mine. It just sat and quivered at about 500 RPM after the GM HEI swap. I "reasoned" that the signal was too noisy and added a condenser/capacitor to the negative side of the coil. It worked. I'm not trained in electronics beyond a 101 course about 30 years and things I've picked up since then but sometimes my guesses lead to results, maybe for the wrong reasons. I confirmed that the condenser was needed when the wire to the capacitor broke later and the tach stopped working. I used a condenser/capacitor from the back of an alternator. Worth a shot and can't hurt anything. Forgot to say, congratulations on getting it to run. Now you're hooked. And you can check for voltage at the 2.2K resistor connection to see if the blue wire is connected. It's easier than removing the tach to get to the plug. The 2.2K resistor is a small lump in the wiring by the connection block area, down by the fuse box. It's black and uses two bullet connectors. Check for voltage with the key on. Also, it might be that whoever took the ECU out also removed that wire. Good luck.

Interesting that the new 240Zlover777 has 100% positive feedback. The eBay rating system seems weak.

Not so sure people aren't going a little too far here. The guy is not selling them as OEM. Edit - the price alone is offensive though. It's got URGELIS all over it.

Search "240z shim squeal" "280Z shim squeal" on your favorite search engine. See what you see... Edit - or just take a chance. Then you'll have the true knowledge of before and after. Won't hurt you. My experience was that it's not the pads.

It wouldn't be a "choke" then, it would be a fast idle mechanism. So what 246 said makes sense and is the classic way of starting an old car that has a carb with an accelerator pump. Which, apparently, the Webers do. Pump the pedal a few times to get some raw gas in to the manifold, let it sit for 10-20 seconds to get some vapor, then try to start it. If it starts you might have to keep working the throttle pedal to richen up the mixture, since, apparently, there is no true "choke". Once it catches and keeps running, the fast idle cable will hold the throttle open for you. Most old 50s ,60s, and 70s cars work that way. But they have a true choke which richens the mixture by choking the upstream side of the venturi creating lower pressure to pull more fuel from the bowls. They also have bimetal strip controlled fast idle systems on the throttle mechanism. The old cars have some pretty cool mechanical methods to do what the electronics do today.

BaT is an interesting site. The buyer bid on a BMW earlier, and it looks like he is someway of a collector. Has an NSX, apparently. https://bringatrailer.com/member/mschoemann/ The seller sells a lot of Z's, and other cars. https://bringatrailer.com/member/The240zGuild/

Love the "people are starting to appreciate" comments. Seems like that gets written every time a Z sells. What does "resealing" an engine mean? Engine has been resealed.

Of course. There's always an exception.

Funny, I just realized that I copied the link for a 300ZX. I had searched for a 1995 Pathfinder and only saw the year, not the car. Just redid it and searched for a 1997 Pathfinder. All that comes up is 300ZX's. So, the 1997 Pathfinder FSM is not available, from anywhere anymore. So, they really did cut people off. Cold.

I went a little overboard. But the manuals have been out there for many many years. And they don't really make much money from them. They're probably hurting themselves more than the consumer. Nicoclub is like a fan club for Nissan owners. Not a good PR move. So, my comment about "driving people to the dealership" is probably wrong. What they really want is for people to buy new cars because their old ones break down and are too expensive to fix. Big picture wise, it's a petty move that pisses people off. They do sell the manuals on CD. But apparently, even though you've paid for it, you still have to watch ads. How crazy is that? It's like cable TV. https://www.courtesyparts.com/factory-service-manuals/factory-service-manual-and-parts-microfiche-cd-rom-1994-300zx/cdz3294?parent=1221

I almost commented about shims the first time around. Get the shims, for behind the pads, if you don't already have them. MSA says that they only have one side but you can break the tabs off and make them work. The tabs are for convenience during installation. Some people don't have the problem with no shims but they are a guaranteed solution and don't hurt anything f they're still flat. If you live by MSA you can always get them later, easily, and take the pads off one more time.

Here's a bummer. Nissan NA is trying to drive owners of old Nissans to the dealerships, by cutting off access to service documents. Greedy, ignorant, fools (Nissan NA, not us). Edit - I posted the wrong link. I was trying to find a service manual for someone and came across Nicoclub's announcement. Here's the correct link. http://nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals