Zed Head

Could also be a pinched/shorted injector wire. It will cause the injector to stay open. That will show up on the ECU connector test also.

Edit - misread your message. If you have a meter, your most effective troubleshooting will probably be at the ECU connector in the cabin. Get The Fuel Injection Book and start probing. Something will show up. Good luck. p.s. was the 32 psi with the engine running or not? Check the FPR vacuum hose for fuel. Maybe your FPR went bad.

It would help if you could add a lot more detail. Many possibilities. Sounds like your coolant temperature sensor is unplugged or on the wrong terminal.

Could have used Troy. I still have memories of the US attempt to go metric. https://www.ebay.com.au/gds/How-many-Grams-in-1-ounce-When-Selling-Gold-Tips-/10000000003240520/g.html The table in your link was interesting. Alrighty, back to building the 24 Oz.

Isn't Australia on a different standard? Imperial maybe? Then metric. I get 675. Or 750, depending on source. Weird. Cleverness gone awry. https://www.nisbets.com.au/conversioncharts 3 x 8 = 240, 3 x 225 = 675 https://www.taste.com.au/healthy/articles/weights-measurement-charts/vnepuhic#cup 3 x 8 = 240, 3 x 250 = 750 Looks like Jeff used the US conversion - https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-weight Found this while I was looking around. Kind of funny, but not really. https://www.nist.gov/

Just tried to break it down to the basic question. 45 + amps is still a giant draw, over the full capacity of an early 240Z generator. There should be smoke,or a blown fuse. if you see that on your ammeter, I think. Could be that the needle got stuck when the fuse shorted. Give it a tap after disconnecting the battery. At least you'll know if the gauge is damaged or not. Edit - on the other hand I might not know how the ammeter works. Maybe the center point is only set with voltage present. @SteveJ knows though.

In the picture your ammeter shows a big current draw. Over 45 amps. This could be because your alternator is not charging, like site said. Disconnect your battery. The ammeter should go back to the center point. If it does it means that you have a very big current draw when the battery is connected.

The risk/reward ratio is too high. One "oops" and your hood corners are dinged up or you have scratches on the fenders. My brain is winning over my brawn these days. No offense. Plus it gives you time to enjoy the moment.

I hang my hood from the rafters with a rope then roll the car to the position that lets me get the bolts in. I take it off in a similar way. Tie it up , unbolt it.

Just noticed this odd ad over at zcar. It's old but who knows. https://www.zcar.com/forum/15-cars-sale-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx/418282-1970series1-gmail-com.html

And odd for the next one up. Three in one. Just collecting.

Is this true? Just seems odd.

Some posters on the youtube channel pointed out that you have the bleed valves on the bottom, for the "upgrade". The calipers are interchangeable, side to side. Pretty common mistake. You'll never get all of the air out with them that way, the air bubble is at the top. From 12:39 in the video. Bleeding from the bottom. p.s. the weight difference over stock is 1.7 pounds, for just the calipers.

Thanks. I thought about looking there but assumed that I would have seen it in the past. It's one of my favorite sites. Looks like it mounts in front of the radiator, if that sketchy drawing is showing what I think it is. Unless it's a replacement for the pump-driven fan. The most interesting part might be the "switch thermo". Some of us have spent much time trying to find one that has the right temperature range to run a fan. Seems to be discontinued though.

We've had other threads where we tried to figure out what, exactly, is the difference between the part numbered AFM's and never came up with anything, that I can recall. I've had 75-78 in my 76 and they all ran the same. And now I have a 78 engine in my 76 with a 76 AFM and it works fine, although there are a variety of tuning aids on the engine. On top of that, 70's fuel is probably not the same as today's fuel. But, in short, whatever the differences are among the AFM's, they're small. Nothing to worry about. No engine damage will happen.

Thanks, looks like it has the Nissan A31 number, along with an extra number. No simple Bosch number comparisons. Dang.

I'd install them while the diff is out. Much easier to test both ways. They should snap in firmly with a rubber hammer or block of wood and stay in place, then take some effort to lever back out. The axles are designed to have them (edit - the rings) in place in the diff. You should be able to install and remove them (edit - the axles) multiple times. I think that I've seen people use a socket of the right size to push the rings in to the groove. The hard part is getting them started. @jmortensen knows how to do it I think. Might have better luck on Hybridz. I've seen people have some problems with that.

p.s. I'm not saying there isn't a fan. I just want to see what it looks like and where it mounts.

No offense intended zspert. I thought it was a humorous way to acknowledge that you've been a member for 15 years, and that your last two posts (50% of your content at the time of my post) were in 2013. Then you posted two within minutes of each other. In person, it might have been "dude, where have you been?!". Which some people probably would think is rude, if they were present. Humor can be a complex subject. Welcome (back) to the forum. You can probably add a lot, with your experience, if you want to, and can stand an occasional joke. Not all of us have the microfiche. So, if anyone wants to share, feel free.

What's up with this recent barrage of posts? Your post rate has increased exponentially! Does anyone have a drawing of the fan? Does it look like the ZX fan, mounted on the valve cover?

My mistake. Should have seen that. My 76 still has the engine number on the plate too. The seller reported the correct number, I screwed up. Looks legit.

Thanks for getting back with the results. Looking at the diagram and thinking hydraulically I can't see how the valve sticking open would block pressure from the rear system. Unless the seal was sitting over the orifice, blocking it, and the fluid was just passing through the open valve to pressurize the front system. Seems like an open valve should have just acted like a single piston system. Anyway, sometimes just taking things apart and putting them back together has results. Carry on.

It's a 78, pretty sure, I got it from a 1978 parts car that seemed all original. The fuel pump pins are "useless" as I showed above, post #8, with the Nissan wiring diagram. Nissan probably had old AFM's in stock when they made the model switch. If you can get the part number from the board that would be cool. No picture necessary, although pictures do add something.

The topclassics ad says Corvallis, OR. Quite a ways from Vancouver, WA. Odd that he advertises on the Seattle CL for a Vancouver car. Seems like that car would have made it to the Canby show at least once. VIN 6582. Edit - wait...the topclassics ad shows a different VIN. Not sure what's going on here. Scam or different but identical cars. Second edit - the topclassic ad shows the 6582 VIN in a picture but reports another. Maybe it's one of those VIN hybrid cars. Run away!.... Trim: Stock Year: 1970 Mileage: 249000 VIN: HLS3003543

The AFM cover was the typical green Nissan label. If later AFM's use the same board the odds are good, I think, that the "tuning" is the same. Anybody got a 1978 handy? I think I sent mine to @rcb280z I have an MSA AFM on my car now. MSA says that Fuel Injection Corp. uses a thicker material on the conductive pattern to make it more durable.