Zed Head

How about a change in topic. Where did it come from? The bio-weapon premise has been around for decades. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aliens_(film) Ripley discovers Burke ordered the colonists to investigate the derelict spaceship containing the alien eggs, intending to profit by recovering them for biological weapon research.

You just need to be clear in your writing. Posting random inflammatory things with no citations in a thread is worse than censorship. I don't have the ability to censor anything. You do though. If you have problems with Fauci just speak clearly. And, don't overlook that Fauci did not create the vaccine. He is just one of many people involved.

Here's another good site for seeing the current state of affairs. It's odd how even the professional sites present the past instead of the present and future. So much focus on what can't be changed. https://www.ecdc.europa.eu/en/geographical-distribution-2019-ncov-cases Scroll down and this graphic shows up. Tells you how bad things are now, not six months ago.

Johns Hopkins has improved their data presentation, link below. Is the drop in US daily cases due to vaccines? South America looks in terrible shape. India is in the news because their population is so big, meaning large absolute numbers, but South America's rates are really high and climbing. And they're planning a huge soccer tournament for the summer. We're lucky here but the rest of the world is still in bad shape. https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/data/new-cases

Mike, I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or trolling or, if you are one of the vaccine deniers. Check this story out. Jon Rahm, a professional golfer, probably lost 1.7 million dollars because he didn't get a shot. And he's from Spain, one of the places that got hit the hardest in the beginning. https://sports.yahoo.com/jon-rahm-tests-positive-covid-19-withdraw-lead-memorial-tournament-224522746.html https://deadspin.com/jon-rahm-knocked-out-of-memorial-tournament-with-covid-1847042318

Zero is not in the middle. It's the one with zero marked on it. See below. #1 is wherever you connect the plug wire from the #1 spark plug. The rotor points at the distributor cap terminal that you will connect the wire to the #1 spark plug. Put the mark on zero. Put the rotor on the shaft. See which terminal of the distributor cap the rotor is pointing to. Take the wire that comes from the #1 spark plug and connect it to that cap terminal.

That's an odd path to aviation machinist. Not really seeing the machinist training in there, but you got in. Check this video out, just came across it.

Looks like I got about 58 mm on my 76 with 5 speed and perfectly working clutch. To clarify - this is the measurement from the bolt head to the fork, at rest. Just to give an idea of how tall or short the TOB sleeve is

We've posted about the correct distance from the slave cylinder bolt head to the fork. You might measure that at rest. That will tell you something about the TOB collar/sleeve inside. If it's too short the distance will be too long. It doesn't look like the fork is hitting the back of the hole. That's what usually happens with the wrong TOB sleeve/collar. Yous still looks like it's back farther than normal, but there might enough room to make it work even though it's wrong. The FSM shows the slave cylinder travel number. You could measure that to see if you're getting full travel. People have made their own slave cylinder rods to get more reach to the fork. But it might also be that the rod at the master cylinder is the one that needs to be extended. You said that you adjusted the pedal, but not the rod from the pedal to the MC piston. You can do that by loosening the lock nut and turning the rod with a pair of pliers, while everything is assembled. Take the return spring off of the pedal and extend the rod until the play is removed, but leave a small amount, the put the return spring back on. It's cramped under there but it's doable. It does look you should get more travel in your video, which might let you get by with the wrong parts for a while.

That's not how a person tests for spark. The fact that you saw a small spark when you turned the key off suggests that the coil and wiring are correct. It looks like you don't have a meter or a test light and are just poking around, taking things apart and putting them back together. Sometimes that works but not often. Go back through the suggestions and write down what you did for each one. Where is the rotor under the distributor cap? Without that you'll never get a spark out to the plugs. Show that the plug wires are in the correct positions. Show that the rotor is pointing to #1 when the damper pulley mark is at zero. At this point it's not even clear that you have ever had a rotor in the distributor. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1974,260z,2.6l+l6,1209181,ignition,distributor+rotor,7136

There is no easy way to test the ignition module. SteveJ's diagram can be used to install a $25 GM HEI module. That's about as cheap and easy as you'll get. One of your main problems in your posts though is that you describe one issue then don't follow-up to show that you corrected it, then you come back with a completely separate problem. You started with plug wires that are obviously wrong by your picture. Then you started looking at your ignition module, Then you said that you had power to the ballast resistor but no power out of it. Maybe you meant no spark when you said no power. There are many small things that you can do to confirm that other parts are correct. Measure resistance through the distributor pickup coil. Confirm voltage at the coil itself with the key on. Measure resistance through the coil. You can even create a spark by disconnecting and connecting the positive wire to the coil with the key on to confirm that the coil itself will produce a spark and is wired correctly. You can take your meter and confirm that the ignition module is getting power. Confirm that it is properly grounded. Confirm that it is connected to the pickup coils in the distributor, There's a bunch that you can do and should do if you want to save money and have the best chance of getting it to work. Plug n Play is only really possible for things that are already working properly.

That sounds like a ballast resistor issue. Power passes through the ballast resistor to the coil. Measure resistance from the point that the W/B (white with black stripe) wire connects to the other two terminals. When the key is on (IG) the longer path is used, during Start the shorter path is used. But both paths should pass current. The ballast resistors do fail.

If he wires it in the engine bay then he can just use the red and green directly to the W and G pins, B from the coil's + terminal, and C to the coil's negative terminal. Then unplug the module in the cabin. That's the quick and easy test method if a person is not sure the module is bad. If it works, then it can be moved to the cabin. Or not. That's a nice diagram for in-cabin mounting. You could make a pdf and ask Mike to put it in the Downloads area for 260Z applications. @Mike P.s. are the diodes necessary or is that your engineer side saying that they couldn't hurt? Just curious. What happens if they're not used?

That is the pulley on the crankshaft. The lowest pulley on the front of the engine. There is a small notch in the edge of it. That needs to be close to zero. Rotate the engine to get it there. You can rotate the engine by putting the transmission in high gear and moving the car. The other part is the timing tab. The metal tab with the numbers on it could be on either the passenger side of the engine or the driver's side. It's hard to see, dark down there, and there's usually stuff in the way and the parts are covered in grease. Shine a bright light down there and see what you can find.

You have confirmed spark and ignition timing with the starting fluid. Now you need to find out why the injectors aren't opening. Could be the power supply, could be the signal from the coil negative terminal, could be the ECU. Get a meter and start probing.

The relay is actually two relays in one box - the EFI relay and the fuel pump relay. Nissan split them apart in 1978.

The rotor goes here. It presses on by hand.

This is a rotor.

Where the rotor points is #1.

Yours looks in pretty bad shape. But even the eBay one is old and could fail at any moment. Probably easier to wire in a GM HEI module. The eBay module might be from a 75 280Z. Looks like it would work though if the wires are the same. Here's a couple of links about the GM HEI module. No offense, but, considering your problems with plug wires I'm not sure you'll get the wiring correct. Be careful. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/64-1977-280z-replacing-the-tiu-with-a-hei-module/

Leave the wires on the spark plugs. Disconnect all of the wires from the distributor cap. Reconnect the wires to the cap as shown in w3wilkes post #2. Put the rotor back on and make sure it points to #1 when the ignition timing mark is between zero and 10 degrees.

Sounds like your ignition timing is off. Turn the distributor body. That will change the trigger point and get the rotor pointed closer to #1.

Turn over and crank mean the same thing. You probably mean "fire" or start, not turn over. Crank/turn over > fire/start > run. How long does it sputter? A split second? What happens if you squirt a bunch of fluid in? What is the actual fuel pressure number?