LeonV

Either use a lot of heat and rust penetrant while using vice grips, or have a mobile welder come by and weld the nut on. Should cost you maybe $50-100.

Amazingly beautiful! I'd never sell that if it were me!

I usually reuse the old springs unless they show visual signs of fatigue or damage (usually don't see this, esp. with Z drums). Rebuild the cylinders, install & adjust new shoes and you're good to go. Get new springs and hardware if it makes you more comfortable. I'd recommend adjusting the handbrake once everything else is set as well. The Z drums are great IMO, very easy and simple to work with.

Not sure how you'd go about boring out a cylinder head either...

There are part numbers printed on the springs. The front PN ends with a 1, and the rear with a 2. This seems to happen a lot...

It did, until I tightened the previously finger-tight oil pan bolts.

I would: (1) Install master and gravity bleed all wheel cylinders (2) Bleed master using ports on master and a hose looping from the port back into the reservoir (3) Replace calipers and reinstall rebuilt rear cylinders (4) Finish bleeding using your preferred method (pressure/vac, 2-person, gravity, etc.) Rebuilding wheel cylinders is simple. There are kits at Rockauto.com and probably any other auto parts distributor. Good luck and let me know if you get stuck!

You're right, cookie cutters are boring. Personally, I enjoy something that is built for something besides a spec rulesheet.

And I could always come by if you get stuck!

I agree on the 110 Red. My 260Z is 110 and it's a great color, looks orange in the sun and red in the shade.

Here's your argument, the other way around: Very powerful cars can go fast. Not really news-worthy, either. A Prototype racer is a car in search of a place to race, and that place is the Lemans series. They are built specifically for Lemans. Nothing else. What is the point of a prototype racer? They only participate in Lemans, therefore making them pointless (by your argument). Your quote, with two words changed: Lemans, or pretty much any racing for that matter, is not a matter of "outright speed" but a matter of finishing the race in first (i.e. the "endurance" that you mention). If you want outright speed, go to the salt flats. When a car finishes first, it wins (*said in best John Madden voice*). Doesn't matter how you get there, and that is where innovation is king. Stagnation and complacency are the results of prohibiting and downplaying change or innovation.

Your views are extremely narrow minded and carry a heavily biased undertone. I can make similar arguments for any race car. Hell, any car for that matter.

I hope you meant, "yank".

What does "run equal specs" mean, exactly? The Robin was not made to be a Lemans racer. There is a lot of cool stuff designed into the Deltawing, purely discounting it for the reason of it reminding you of a Reliant Robin doesn't make sense to me...

It has 4 wheels.

The only differences are the gland nuts and rear strut length. Diameters are the same. At worst, you'll have to put a piece of SCH40 pipe, cut to length, underneath the rear strut (which is what Tokico does, BTW). I would not call the differences between inserts significant. The main difference lies in the strut housings themselves. The 280Z had a thicker housing which made its OD larger than the earlier ones.

I'd also be happy to take the grease seals. The front hubs for my 240Z are torn down, ready for new bearings and seals.

First thing I would do is switch the front tires around. If it pulls to the right, you have a wheel/tire issue. Uneven tire pressures and differences in rolling diameter will cause pull under braking. If the car sat for a while and/or the tires are old, I wouldn't be surprised. EDIT: Agreed with Zed on the booster causing a stiff pedal. Most likely, either the diaphragm is torn or the check valve in the vacuum line going to the booster is installed incorrectly.

Sounds like a vacuum leak and probably an exhaust leak as well. Does it only happen during decel?

Mine is "mushy" but I live with it. Eventually, I'll take a look and see if I can make it better. It's a ways down the to-do list though...

Aha, there's the problem! I wonder why he set it up advanced and not straight up. Besides that, if it was truly 3 degrees at the cam sprocket, then that's 6 degrees at the crank. Holy cow! Way too much cam advance (unless you want to kill top-end), of course the exhaust valve is going to hit. Again, I'm not denying the builder's ability, just seems like a strange series of decisions. I would've set the cam straight-up, and then slowly advanced it to see where I run out of clearance. Then, when you dial in the cam, don't dial in more advance than it physically allows. In the end, it probably doesn't make a huge difference to you and you'll enjoy the engine either way. I was just curious as that statement really threw me off.

It could come out pretty nice if it actually had wheels that fit, and the rear bumper and spoiler removed. That interior material has to go too, looks like a living room from the '60s.

Longer. That does bring up a great point, however. How does such a mild cam manage to have valve-to-piston interference issues? I was very surprised when I saw this mentioned but refrained from posting. L-gatas have had much wilder cams put in (think .550" lift, over 300deg duration with 13-14:1 comp) without interference. That doesn't make sense to me, especially with relatively close lobe centers. I'm not saying he's wrong, but I would immediately think that the cam is timed incorrectly (too advanced) after having detected interference.

I hope so! A friend from work may be coming with his son, hopefully he'll snap some for me. He had an Isuzu Bellet (GT or GTR) at one time, but unfortunately got rid of it. Wish he still had it!

With the longer-duration cam, cylinder pressure at low rpm will probably be lower. However, at high rpm, cylinder pressure will definitely be higher, otherwise you wouldn't be making any more power over a stock cam! What a longer-duration cam does is it moves the peak cylinder pressure point to a higher rpm (where intake inertia and exhaust scavenging effects are stronger). The longer duration and overlap periods make for more reversion at lower rpm, thus dropping cylinder pressure where there is not enough intake inertia or exhaust scavenging to keep the mixture flowing into the cylinder. EDIT: This relates to detonation and preignition because of the shift of peak cylinder pressures. By shifting peak pressure to higher rpm, you give the mixture less time to self-ignite. This is why longer-duration cams can be effective in suppressing detonation when compared to a stock cam at the same compression ratio. Higher compression increases cylinder pressures at all points and the longer-duration cam drops cylinder pressures at low rpm. If the superposition of these is not much higher than the stock cam/compression combo (at "low" rpm), then you might be okay. This is starting to get into the details but I wanted to shine some light as to the physics of the phenomenon we're discussing.