LeonV

There's your problem. You bought the car, not knowing the last time the valves had been adjusted (among other things) and kept driving it. Old cars need more than just oil changes and tire rotation (as I'm sure you know). Check your valve clearances right now, and I bet they're very tight. A fresh valve job should get you back up and running.

Yup, they probably thought you were a spambot.

If compression is pretty good in the other cylinders I would just pull the head off and do a valve job. My bet is that the valves were out of adjustment (do you adjust them periodically?) and you burned the exhaust valve on #6. After getting the valves done, slap the head back on the car and drive. While you do so, you can build an L28. IMO, it's always nice to have a running Z. The longer it's down, the higher the probability of "build fatigue" setting in...

It sure looked purdy for the couple of seconds I saw it!

Saw a white 280ZX Coupe driving on Caulfield away from Lakeville as I was pulling into the Shell station on the corner yesterday evening.

On Saturday, I saw a sweet lime-green 240Z parked on a trailer in Danville. Then, I believe it was Sunday that I saw a clean, brown S30 heading the other way on the freeway. I don't even remember where or when it was, besides it probably being I280.

I agree Chas, and I'd add gearing to that as well. A 3.36 rear diff makes a 240Z feel rather anemic.

That's not really what the correction factor is for. This is an example of one of those variables that can give screwy results. Coolant (and oil) temps should be stable and consistent in order to have any kind of valuable data. The reason for correction factors is to compensate for temperature and pressure (hence air density) differences at the time of the test. Ideally, this normalizes all tests as if they were all done under the same conditions. In reality, cross-dyno comparisons are invalid unless the dyno adheres to certain strict calibration and procedural standards (ASTM, SAE, etc.). The graphs in general suck and don't make much sense (overlapping power and torque curves). If you want real results, go to a real shop.

FWIW: BRAAPs L6 EFI-induction advice and tips. - L-Series - HybridZ

First off, you can't really compare numbers across different dynos. Also, I don't see whether the numbers were corrected to STP. With that said, on the surface, the numbers look low. If they're not pressure or temperature corrected, that can at least partially explain why. It would've been helpful if there was an AFR trace-line. To really find out what's going on, go to an actual shop and have them dyno your car with an O2 sensor in the exhaust stream. There are many factors that affect dyno readings. The less controlled the "experiment" the less accurate it will be.

You'll see no gain, only a more sensitive throttle (increased flow area/throttle angle)...

What's the reasoning for this? To stay on topic, I already commented on HBZ but I'll say it again. I appreciate the great effort and engineering that you've put into this. When I decide to upgrade to rear disks, this sounds like a great option.

That chassis is a goner. If I were you, I'd immediately stop spending my time and money on this thing and find a donor shell to swap the parts into. My 2 cents...

Saw an awesome lime-green 240Z with black "240Z" door stripe and polished 5-slots in downtown San Mateo last Saturday. Very nice! Saw a brown 280ZX 2+2 on the Golden Gate Bridge on my way into work this morning.

The thing here is that "revving better" is hard to quantify...

Good luck! 2+2 and automatic are not a popular combo but the interior is in great shape.

Sure thing Mike. Now post one of your own! Stephen, I'll second getting the e-tubes, naturally!

No worries, car looks good! Are you still planning on selling or will you be keeping it? Not following you here. A cam cannot be 180* out. If a piston is at TDC, the cam will determine whether it's on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke. It's up to the distributor to spark the correct cylinder at the right time. If the cam is "180* out" (exhaust stroke instead of compression) then all that needs to be done is to move the plug wires 3 spots over. The spark will then be phased correctly to the cam.

Affirmative.

Couldn't agree more... I made sure to stomp the throttle every time I went WOT:

Glad you got it done! FWIW, you can't really install a cam 180deg out. It was your spark timing that was 180deg out (distributor), but you corrected it by phasing the cam. Either method works but I think turning the distributor (or rearranging the plug wires) is the easier route to take.

If the master was truly dead, the pedal would slowly drop to the floor...

I suppose they could be. However, all signs point to the vendor being Pierce Manifolds. The Manifold is definitely not a "clone" of the Cannon, but a TWM (who I believe is owned by Borla now). Considering Pierce supplies these manifolds, that's one clue. The other is the location being Gilroy, CA and the fact that they're selling so many Weber products... Best bet would be contacting the seller and asking what's up, as that's a good price.

I don't remember exactly what Keith said regarding these, but I do remember them not being very tight. I think they get locked in when you screw them in. Why not send Keith an email? Do not over-tighten them.

Follow me here, Tom. Step 1: Toss DGVs into nearest garbage can. Step 2: Install triples.