LeonV

I'll have to try that! FWIW, the old, broken emblems that I have are definitely more orange than the new emblems on the green car.

Looking at a '76 would be a much better choice.

Excellent!

Nice, cool list!

$150 a set (carbs, manifold, linkage) for 4-screw round tops. Don't know the condition of the throttle shafts though, hence I sell them for ZT's core price. I've got heat shields and air cleaner housings for a little extra. At this point, I don't see myself owning a Z without triples, so I have no need for the SUs.

Jon pretty much said what I was going to say. Higher elevation = less risk of detonation (less cylinder pressure because of thinner atmosphere) and raising compression from 9:1 to 10:1 doesn't do a whole lot in and of itself (~3% gain according to "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals", John B. Heywood). As far as lightened flywheels go, we've had this disussion on the board before. The link Jon posted is actually the best I've seen regarding the effects of flywheels (and inertia in general), and is exactly what I was talking about in the prior discussion. A lighter flywheel changes the "effective" mass of the vehicle, and moreso in 1st gear than 5th because of "effective" inertia due to gearing. We (doradox and I) eventually settled the disussion saying that we're both essentially saying the same thing, but in different ways. After a long conversation with an engineering-minded cousin of mine, I gained a deeper understanding of the true differences in views (makes more power vs. removes weight). This all comes down to "free-body diagrams" and Newton's 2nd Law (F=ma). If you isolate the car as whole, lower flywheel inertia is represented as a loss in overall weight. Since motive force stays equal (flywheels don't change engine output), in order for acceleration to increase the mass must proportionally decrease. Since the flywheel rotates, taking 10lb off the flywheel is not the same as 10lb off a non-rotating component, thus the effective weight. Now, if we isolate the drive-wheels in a free-body diagram, we see a different story. The wheels themselves don't change in mass, but acceleration increases. Thus, to the wheels, it looks like more power is being made (more force available to drive the wheels). As you can see, both are valid points of view, if we understand that there are differences in what we're talking about (the whole car vs. just the drive-wheels). Personally, I think it makes more sense to view it form an "effective weight" perspective (the whole car) since that is the actual derived quantity. As you can see in the link, the "effective power" increase is just an approximation of how much weight loss increases acceleration vs. an effectively equal gain in power. It's the same as pulling out the seats of your car and calling it a power gain. It just makes more sense to me, but for those that want to look at isolated drive-wheels, have at it!

The one on the orange car is very faded, so yes, it does look very different. However, I'm sure it started out yellow just like the others.

Overlap isn't the right parameter to talk about. It's the IVC (Intake Valve Closure) point that matters. The later the intake valve closes, the less cylinder pressure you'll have at low RPM. The thing that "hotter" cams do is build cylinder pressure at higher RPM than a stock cam. The reason why a more aggressive cam makes you less prone to detonation is that at high RPM, there is less time for detonation to happen. However, if detonation does happen at high RPM (and high load) then boom goes the dynamite... As for kensval: 10:1 comp, stock cam, and stock EFI DO NOT mix with CA gas. I would bet on you experiencing noticeable pinging if you're currently at MBT timing (not knock-limited). If you don't want to retard timing, there are some stations that still sell 100 AKI ("octane") gas in CA. You can look this up online. Mix the tank 50/50 with 100 and 91 and you get 95 octane. Expect to pay a little extra for 100 octane...

I'm going to try to go through my parts today and see if I can find my 260Z emblems that had some of the resin broken off, in case it may be of interest.

DGV Webers? Well there's your problem! I don't mess with DGVs but I have 2 sets of round-top SUs and will be taking them to the Datsun swap meet in Manteca on Saturday.

Adjust your valves ASAP. Lash gets tighter over time because the valves wear into their seats. You should see a bump in compression across the board, as well as better idle and low RPM running. Tight valves will "burn" (erode).

Mike, here are some pics. One is an old, worn emblem and the other is new. I should probably clean them... Looks like it's injected into the part after the emblem itself has been made. I don't have any experience in making something like this though.

Ah, I recognize that first one. I believe that's Jim's car (JCan on HBZ). He found a thermostat online somewhere and adapted it to his manifold so that he could keep the loop functional.

Looks to be in good shape! Probably needs a good going-over but that's a nice start. BTW, if the last photo was supposed to show a patch, I don't see it. Looks stock to me, but it's hard to tell from the pic.

I'm planning on one for my "new" 260 but here's the one on my S2000:

3-year-old post...

Those are Minilites or copies thereof. All US 240Zs came with steel wheels+wheel covers from the factory. Yours are aftermarket, whether dealer add-on or not.

While there may be less stiction with PU than rubber, it's still there. I prefer to torque the suspension laden, no settling period necessary.

Cool Mike! I'll try to take a look at some of my emblems tonight.

You know, I don't think I've taken any good ones, just progress pics. I'll take some tonight. For now, here's a progress pic showing the syncronization of the trigger wheel to the engine (sensor offset).

Thanks Rob, I agree that the crank-trigger is itself reliable. My work, however, may not be! I have full confidence at this point, I've done thousands of miles on it without a hiccup (knock on wood). The distributor is in there just for fun at this point. Also, I haven't bothered to buy or make a block-off for it.

There's an idea! I love it when people ask me how the car runs "without plug wires" (I've left the distributor in as backup, haven't used it yet).

You torqued the suspension with it laden, correct?

Also, non-hub centric wheels (i.e. lug centric) typically require a shanked lug nut.

I saw the same one on a Chevy Turbo Sprint that I was parked next to at a car show.