Zedrally

DC circuits switch after the load. There is another thread somewhere on this site that explains it, or states it. I think it has a lot to do with the current [amps] that the accessories draw and it is preferable to palce any switching after the load. It has created a lot of confusion at times when looking at car electricals. Maybe someone with a more experiance can help in the thread. HIH

You are aware of the firing order on the dist cap runs anti-clockwise? Just a thought?

Ha, never saw my driving lights mount. Bull Bar was the best description until the scuts went to town on them......... Aside this, it's always been apparent that each state had it's own foiables when it came to speach. Whether it's a schooner, pot or pony it all goes down the same. Cheers and it's your shout. edit: left out "handle", anyone with any more?

Ozlime is correct in his method of running all these elec accessories from the Alternator, the reality of it is that you may quickly run out of space on the terminal. I did as I was running relayed low beam, high beam, 2 sets driving lights all seperatly relayed and fused. It had the potential of becoming a rats nest all to quickly. The solution... Run the heaviest cable you can from the alternator to the starter, then use the starter terminal as a bus for all your accessories. No noticable loss of brightness in the H4 or drivers. It's also preferable if you need to do a quick changeover in a rally due to toasting your altenator!

I believe that there is also a smaller diameter SU that was used in the triple ''S' es. From memory they have a smaller suction chamber and throttle body, and can be confused with 'zed SU's. Anyone with further info?

Use www.qantas.com.au as a gateway. Woollagong [& I don't think thats the right spelling either] is south of Sydney, maybe some locals can chime in now! Enjoy your holiday, I now that you will enjoy it here.

Mick, Try a squirt of WD-40 or CRC. It's worked for me several times.

Before you go to the expense of buting a new switch, try cleaning the contacts with a contact cleaner, you could even give it a squirt of CRC etc. If there has been any buildup there this will loosen it and re-jevinate your switch at the same time.

Pardon my ignorance, but would this also be possible on SU's?

Just in case anyone is interested, here is a photo of the new GTR that will be released in Aus in 4 years time!

So in your opinion, OEM-replacement Kayaba's which you mention would be OK for moderate dirt work?

If the engine ran before you adjusted it, I would suggest that you adjust the cam sproket back to where you had it and see if the engine fires. If it does then adjust the sproket in the opposite direction to what you originally did. THis 15 degree adjustment is obsolutly critical. Good luck

Probably because there are better conversions around?

Similar price wise to Koni's, if there an air shock then it would be a better investment. You mention the production run requirement [20], aren't they available individually from the distributer?

Are these gas shocks? Are the springs usable with stock 240 struts or do you require a modified strut for the extra clearence?

Absolutely critical. Do yourself a favour and get a Factory Service Manual. It will pay back it's purchase price many times over in the future.

U Joints will clunk. Wheel bearings sound like a rrrrrrr and will change pitch with speed. My bet is wheel bearings.

The Factory Manual states no sealer is necessary. Although, in actual practice I would recommend using high temp sealer on the exhaust. The exhaust manifold is prone to developing a "slight"warp and sealer is cheap insurance against that posssible and very annoying exhaust leak that hampers the z series. [sometimes]!

Fantastic, the power of the club has been proven again. Not only have we started a thread and condensed an amazing amount of information on 1 piece of equipement, I've also been able to locate the supplier. aRCH-Z, many thanks again, I'll head past Zworx tomorrow for a price. PS. I had thought of spraying it black this time!

Sound's like a belly flop to me. There was never any attempt to change anyone's opinion on this, merely to highlight the differences between HS & HLS models, rather than to paint all S deriviates into one bundle. MOM

Gav, I think you have a couple of seperate problems which have occured at the same time. To solve you no click, no nothing, my best advice is to check your baterry terminals. I had a similar problem last night when I left work, although now I know what the "problem "is as it's happened many times to me. I have fitted a screw time battery cuttoff switch and every time it's been the contact. All I need to do is unscrew the switch nut, clean[sand] both sides and replace. Solve this problem first, then look at you next problem. Unfortunatly, I have no experiance with electronic ignition, but a educated guess is a problem with the module?

Back in'79 I was faced with exactly the same problem. After much head scratching I rang the Service department of the largest Nissan dealer I could find and asked whether there was a special tool for this. There reply was to use a ring spanner, this I had tried but was unable to get the head over the nut. [sidchrome has a good 45degree bend and will not reach]. When asked how they managed it they replied that they used a Stahl Willy [not sure if the willy is spelled correct]. So off I went and brought one, which I still have to this day, reserved especially for uses in which a very slender ring spenner is required. It has the slightest bend which is all that is required for easy dismantling of the T/S. Oh and no bloody knuckles from using this...... HIH

I'll have to chime in here and ruffle some feather of the Left Hookers. There is no Series 1 or 2. Just early and late model 240's. As noted there is no cut off date as the S30 series and derivitaives was in a constant state of modification. Possibly one could concede that the last of the first 500 LHD was the end of a "series", that however would only be true for the LHD market as the RHD market was different again! There is a wealth of knowledge in a thread started by KATS early this year and hopefully it may dispel this series 1 or 2 myth once read.

Last One. Does it help anyone?

From a differnt side.