Zedyone_kenobi

IT looks more like it is in your valves. Good job on running the wet and dry test. THe rings would seem to indicate fine with your tests. I would definitely look on the top end for a culprit.

Look, do not just quit. The car is not going to fix itself. Get back in here and stick with this... All that is being asked is to use a minimum amount of punctuation and grammar. A MINIMUM amount. You ARE smart enough to do that. I have no doubt at all. Yes, you can clean injectors, but yours are probably over 30 years old. It is better to replace them so you can definitely check it off that they are good. When ever you trouble shoot an older car, and you take the time to fix something, make sure there is no doubt it is done right. Also, is this your only means of transportation? Do you need this car to work everyday? That will determine how deep you have to go. How much do you have to spend, and how important is keeping the car original to you?

You do not get help by belittling the people you want help from. And please use punctuation on this forum. It helps people take you seriously. You gave us one symptom of a bad running car. This is what we do not know that we would NEED to know Miles on car Did the car run poorly before you changed plugs/filter/gas tank did you replace all the hoses in your car going to the gas tank or are they plugged and stopped up Is the car original or modified Are all the vacuum hoses in good shape What fuel pressure are you running What is your timing set at Also dose is not the word you were looking for. You mean 'It DOES backfire from the front' Take some more time and give the experienced members more information and word it in a grammatically correct way so they can spend time helping you and not trying to figure out what you wrote. By the way, glad to have a new member. Welcome.

I have been thinking of picking up a DC powered O2 sensor lately. I would like one with fast response time that I can screw into a threaded bung I would have welded into my exhaust. I would like to be able to see what my mixture ratio is while I drive. There has to be one that can take a 12V supply in, and send output to a digital gauge. That way I could just run some jumpers from the battery to the sensor and from the sensor to a hand held gauge. I am going to do a search for O2 sensors that are portable.

With the engine at idle what you are looking for is the highest possible idle you can achieve. Before you can do that though, you must balance the amount of air going through the carbs. If you have a unisyn or similar tool, get the air balance just right by adjusting the idle flapper angle adjustment screw on each carb until the flow through each carb is the same. What I do is hook up a digital timing light that has an RPM readout. Then I start with both screws two full turns from closed. I do everything in pairs. Whatever I do to one carb, i do to the second. I turn it one time to the lean direction on each carb and wait a few seconds to see what the rpm reads. If it goes up you have moved in the right direction. This is a coarse method. One turn out or one turn in should produce a noticeable effect on your digital read out. The factory tach is just not a fine enough instrument for this in my experience. Continue to zero in on the mixture ratio until you can not get the car to idle any faster. Picking up the plunger is explained in the video. I think if you raise it and it does not stumble it is running too rich. IT should stumble a bit when you pick up the plunger. Others with more experience with this are bound to chime in!

Check with Esprirt

UPDATE: I went to the gas station and put 5 more gallons of gas in my car. So thats about 6 gallons plus 5 more. I should be close to 2/3rds full. But I still do not come up to half way yet. It did definitely move. I think I am just biased too low. The whole gauge needs to be adjusted up a notch. Blue, if you have a diagram of that adjustment, I would love to see it. Guess I could just take my sending unit out. Better to read a bit lower than you are than higher I suppose.

I saw a screw on what looked like a helical spring, but did not mess with hit. I will go get some gas tomorrow and see what happens.

Okay, real time update. I pulled all the interior panels before Blue told me the fluctuations were normal. So too late for that. BUT I removed the gas sending unit and hooked an OHM meeter to it. It is reading full about 11ish Ohms and 85 Ohms when empty. About. When I put it back in the fuel needle moved up past E and about a 1/3rd up the gauge...which is about 6 to 7 gallons, I am sure these gauges are more accurate in the middle. So now I will fill it up and see if the gauge moves again. I see no reason why taking it out and moving it and installing it again would have fixed anything.

I did not know that!!! VERY cool... But it is a brand new sending unit. straight out of the NISSAN wrapper.

I checked the resistance between the two terminals, and I get a constant reading of 86.7 Ohms with about 7 gallons in it. Also when take a voltage reading from the yellow to the black wire, It fluctuates between 13.1 volts to 0 volts regularly as clockwork with the engine running. It fluctuates with the same regularity (about 2 Hz) between 11 and 0 volts with the engine off. This just seems weird. I get only 68 Ohms of resistance between the black and yellow wires, going through my gas gauge. This is very confusing!

awesome!!!

I agree, I drew a diagram of how it came off the tank, the black/yellow wire does go on top. But I will be darned if I noticed how I installed the pick up...I will check. I will be surprised though. The sending unit has a notch in the side that will only let it go on one way. I may have my wires mixed up then. I will check the resistance going through it tomorrow.

I may have to start looking for it!

I think I will try to take some pics without the center caps ala John Morton and see what it looks like...

Thanks Jeff, 195/60/15

Good news, is my fuel smell is GONE, I filled it up with 8 gallons to get it past half way and sloshed it around as I drove it... ZERO gas fumes! YEAH. Bad news, Gas guage goes up to E, and does not read an ounce above it and does not move. I may have a bad connection or a bad sending unit, BOOOOO

I am really starting to think a 205/50 would look great on my car.

before after

I finally got the evaporator tank connected and got 7 gallons in the tank, so I was able to get the car out of the driveway and out on the road. Here are some much better pictures of the VTO LeMans. Now if I can just figure out why my NEW gas sending unit is not putting out any readings above empty! GRRR before after

Zcarsource quoted me around 600 bucks depending on what was wrong with it. so I think 600 is about right. If I ever go the 5 speed over my stock 4 speed I will get one totally redone.

Well for your clock, there is only ONE place. http://www.zclocks.com/ You simply cannot do any better on your clock. I have used his service and it is spectacular

Eureka!! Napa had 3/4" fuel injection line. I can finally finish this project

You brew your own beer. Man that explains the pertronix thread, HAHA

You are right, I should have said, the VTO LeMans only come in 15" I completely agree. That is the same reason I wanted to go 16" a while ago like Frank did. I can get autocross quality street tires in a 16". I can barely get summer tires in a 15", and only race tires in a 14". My biggest problem is my width kills me. With my stock body work and my tokiko springs, I am limited to a 195/60/15. I guess I could go 205/50/15, but that gets REALLY short. I may puta set of those on my panasports for autocross days.