Zedyone_kenobi

yes, I am using a stock 240Z clutch with the stock 240Z fork, stock 240Z collar and throwout bearing, with the stock 240Z slave (adjustable rod and all). The clutch actuates beautifully with no binding and seems to be disengaging fine as when I decouple the transmission from the engine while in what I think is neutral the driveshaft spins freely. How well it works with the car running will have to wait. I talked with MSA over the phone and read many posts on this board to make sure matched up all the clutch hardware.

UPDATE: I called Z car source and talked to Scott. VERY nice guy, as always. They had a pow wow and decided that they would honor their warranty no questions asked, BUT they do not think they will have to. In fact all my symptoms seem to indicate some rods shifted during shipping (sort of like Steve said previously) He said all I have to do is remove the black cover shown below in the transmission to the right (the B type) and push the rods in by hand and it should free everything up. I am assuming the rods are behind that plate shown here I will drop the transmission by itself tonight and try this, AND report back. Madkaw, taking your suggetion to heart, I also asked them to assemble a complete OEM linkage for this transmission so I can ensure it is not MSA's short shifter kit mucking up the works.

As far as the slave cylinder not working....Yeah, I made a video of that to make sure it was.

I certainly hope I can get the original console to fit. I may have to get creative with a blow torch and do some bending to the shifter, but I am not there yet. I have to conquer this transmission demon. I am not looking forward to my phone conversation with Zcarsource. I hope they surprise me.

Here is the shifter hole... nice and tight at first. Enter the tin snips! And whala.... the new shifter opening is nice and roomy, plant of room for the shifter to move around. UPDATE: Called Zcarsource.com left a message, we will see what they do when they call me back. Stay Tuned!

Well, um, no, but I do not have a stock shifter to put on it. It is the short shift kit that MSA sells for Type B 4 speed transmissions. I do not think that would explain why in neutral it is locked in gear do you? I wonder if during shipping things moved around in there. I could spin the input shaft by hand before I put it in, but could never spin the output shaft. Just figured it was in neutral. It is looking like I am going to have to pull the damn thing. Not much can be trouble shot with it in the car that is NOT running.

Okay fellow Z heads, the smooth running train that was my engine/tranny install hit an iceberg, and I am stumped badly! This is my formal cry for help! I installed my slave cylinder tonight and adjusted it per the manual with adjustment nut. All is well. Then I go cut my hole in the transmission tunnel, with some metal sheers ( the only way to do this by the way, took 3 minutes tops). Then I installed my new shifter mechanism. All is well so far. As usual smooth sailing. Then I go to install my driveshaft while and it mates up with the splines on the transmission, no real surprise there, no worries. I get the first nut on and go to turn the driveshaft and it will not budge. Well I figure I have it in gear. Keep in mind this is a brand-new 700 dollar rebuilt transmission from Zcarsource.com. The transmission is empty at this point, so I do not get carried away with moving the shifter around, but I move it to the left and it notches up with some force into what I think is first, then there is a detent straight down, should be neutral, and one more detent down. I am thinking it is second. The transmission WILL NOT shift into 3rd, 4th, or Reverse at all no matter if I push the clutch or not. I can reach down and touch the drive shaft through the shifter hole. It will NOT spin ever unless I put the transmission in neutral AND pushing the clutch. If I put it in neutral and let the clutch out the drive shaft immediately stops moving. It is like it is stuck in a gear of sorts, I am really not sure what to do. I put a socket on the crank and even when the car is supposively in neutral, the wheels turn when I turn the crank pulley by hand (I still have not hooked up the starter) What the heck do I do now. I will call Z car source in the morning first thing you can bet, but I have no idea where this is going. If I have to drop that damn transmission after it went in so beautifully, I am going to cuss in every language I know, which is one, but I will make up for the lack of diversity with volume.

I second the notion to check the rack bushings, steering coupling, and ball joints. Also, did they have to add an extreme amount of weight to the rim when they mounted the new tires? Tires are the one component you should never skimp on in my opinion. They are without a doubt the most important part of your entire car. Everything else sends or receives input to and from the tires. I recommend if all is tight, paying for some better tires. Buy some Hankooks, or even some Falkens, they are very reasonably priced. But off brand tires are never a good choice.

Thanks guys for the good advice. I picked up some nylon and rubber washers from the hardware store during my lunch break, I am going to try to cut the hole tonight before it gets too late and the family goes to sleep.

I am really hoping to use my OEM console. I bought a short shifter kit that closely resembles the comp shifter that may help it work with my stock console, but I will learn the hard way. As far as the radiator goes, it is too early to tell exaclty what I will do. The radiator seems to stick up too far, but tonight I am going to put more eyes on it and perhaps reinstall my old radiator just to get some measurements. The old one never leaked. So we will see.

Bite your tongue Arne. You have been here through thick and thin. You have contributed more useful information than most of us ever have. I always admired you for your dedication but also your realistic approach and views. I also considered your car a cousin to my grey one as they were both 71's and VERY close in number to each other. You opinion is valued and respected. I hope to keep getting it. And when I buy my mid 80's 911, I can look forward to bugging you more to get up to speed on that!

last night I was up fitting the new radiator. The support holes are not in the same place as the other radiator I had. So some drilling may be necessary. Also, this is one of those pesky aluminum ones, which upon some research here I found out that I will need to isolate from the metal due to electro corrosion issues. Which makes perfect sense. So I am looking for some isolators that will work. I ordered some vibration isolators form mcmaster carr to get the search on the way, but I will also stop by my hardware store and look at the fun isle with all the cool trinkets. That was problem 1. Problem 2 is the 2-3 fan belts I have accumulated over the past 2 months are all too short. Not sure why this is, as the only thing that change is the harmonic damper pulley, so I have to assume that it is larger than the one for the L24. So I picked up the new belt and we will see if I guessed big enough on the size. I got the interior transmission tunnel ready to cut, but I am going to take pictures of this extensively, as many questions have been asked about how much you need to cut the transmission tunnel for a Type B vs a Type A.

I am just here for the avatar. carry on

I like how you mounted the spring on the triples. I used the other bracket, but I may try to duplicate the way you have it done

I ordered from crutchfield and I will check my records for the part number.

nope, and I really wanted to see this video, as I was thinking of getting another Hero camera. I have the original hero and the audio is just rubbish while you drive... As you can see here. I had the sensitivity turned down for this run, it was worse when it was turned up. I also had tried this with the case fully closed AND with the case drilled with some sound holes.

I just did the same modification Arne. I put in two speakers and I think I used kenwoods as well. You are right, there is not much out there in that size that shallow.

You know what Guy, I keep finding threads with pic of your herd of Z's in it, and it keeps making me want to take off my VTO LeMans Rims I just got and put my Panasports back on! DRAT!!!

IF I get a vote, I think the scarab idea is brilliant. If you have to modify a 240Z hood, why not go something the old school datsun guys did. Popping at high RPM is an issue that is near and dear to my heart. Lets just say that it could be a GREAT many things. Fix the easy ones first. Then after you go freaking nuts, buy webers. HAHAHA

Well I did not repaint the firewall as you can plainly tell in my photos. Just too much removing of things I just recently installed like brake booster, clutch master cylinder, etc. But I did my best on the inner fender on the drivers and passengers side. I used a rattle can for the whole process to answer your question Ben. and a WHOLE lot of drop lots and masking tape. Overspray is just terrible. That is why I have the huge drop cloth on the car in the pics. I used this company, that www.automotivetouchup.com They paint match 901 silver in rattle cans, pints, brush on touch ups, etc. Whatever you like. Since my car was repainted some 15 years ago and the color is just very close to 901 on the respray, you can imagine that this mix is not 100% spot on. But I will say this, for the engine bay, in any light you choose, I would dare you to tell the difference. It is that close. I think both my inner fenders look very nice now, and I am quite pleased. They also sell the compatible sandable primer, base coat, and clear, all in rattle cans. So there is no guesswork if it will work together. I sanded everything with 320 grit until it was smooth and free of any blemishes. Then I hit it with the sandable primer 2x and hit it gain with 500 grit. Then I applied two coats of base 901 silver, and then 2 coats of clear. It was really super easy with the engine out. And it shines quite well. Will I regret not doing the entire engine bay. Probably at times, but for the most part, I can always do the upper firewall with the engine still in the car if it gets too annoying. I think I can just clean off most of that grime anyway. My car gets driven fairly often so I can live with it being a non concourse quality. Truth be told, I have been bitten too many times by the while I am at it bug, so I wanted to keep this detour to a minimum. Still so much work to be done on the install.

bummer, I noticed today that the boot on my brand new tie rod end that I just put on last month split in half! Guess the tire hanging down at such an extreme angle split the rubber, but man you would think that would not happen. I wonder if MSA would warranty that part.

Well one hour later and today was the day. I got that bad boy in there! Had to remove the front bumper to get the engine back enough, but managed to get her in there! Now it is time to really start the clock. I have to get all the assessories bolted to her and then turn the key

I use them. I would always use them. If for nothing else, than if gas leaks out of the carbs, it will not drip directly on the header.

Already have them on all the brakes! But the slave is not a bad idea at all bud!

Okay, this is the radiator comparison that was asked for. Both of my radiators are 3 core, and not original 71 240Z rads. The one I have looks to be similar to the one Black dragon sells. But the PO installed it 10 years ago according to the records. My car had a slight front end accident in its past, so I would wager it was replaced at that time. They are darn near exactly the same size in all dimensions. in width they are nearly identical. Well my plan is to just use the stock clutch fan that I currently run on my old radiator. I never used a shroud of any kind. I would rather have the mechanical fan vs the electric. Plus I already have it. So why spend more money. Hopefully this rad fits just as wells my last one and the fan will never touch it.