Zedyone_kenobi

yeah, but geometrically it is closer to the reliant robin than it is a traditional car (say 911) If made to run equal specs, the handling will indeed suffer.

I fail to see the point of the car. Three wheels configuration has always been unstable. They banned 3 wheeled ATV's for this reason. The Reliant Robin was a miserable failure. Two wheels up front and one in back makes FAR more sense from a stability point of view. They showed the cars under braking and it was not entirely stable. It showed the wiggle and required a bit of steering input to keep it stable. Again, I like innovation, but what is the point of the delta wing. It has the stench of a spec series type of car. LMP1 class is getting to be a bit more of an exhibition race to me. I love the LMP2 and GT classes running. The audi's are crazy impressive. And I respect them. It was interesting to see the differences between the etron and the ultra. I love LeMans. I will always try to watch it, and I still think it is the ultimate test of motorsports. Kudos to all the winners.

I got it and a huge BRE 240Z is on the front cover.. good read. They say the same things that people have been saying, that the 240Z is on the short list of collectable Japanese tin. I think one quote said that gone are the days of a running rust free 240Z for 5000 dollars. Get yours now.

Agree with the rethreader/thread straightener kit. I actually ponied up for a good MATCO one. I chase every nut or bolt from M4 to M10 before I ever reassemble. It makes it so much easier to put together AND it helps ensure proper torque. Great advice as usual Blue!

Well the engine will get here Thursday or Friday of this week! It is on a pallet and I will have them load it into the back of my truck. The only question is, how the hell do I get it out of the back of the truck. I would think an engine hoist would not be able to lift something that high! HAHAAH Oh man, always a problem!

Not sure I will ever put one in there. The heat would make it run non stop. Total energy hog. But during the engine install, I may have to add one. Will be many hot days in the garage

That is quite nifty! I like the innovation there buddy.

Good Luck Jon, I just finished this EXACT project. My advice is clean all the threads thoroughly, and REPLACE the bolts that hold on the ball joints. The torque spec on this is 35 - 45 ft lbs if I read my FSM right. I snapped off two of my bolts. I went out and bought some new zinc plated bolts that were grade 8 or better. Also, do not forget to grease the ball joints and tie rod ends. If you get into any binds please just ask. Also make sure your transverse links are in good shape. One of mine was slightly bent.

Doesn't matter. I am going to transfer the one I have on my current engine over

Thanks Mitchell. I definitely an anxious to see what a healthy L28 can do. No way it will feel anything like my L24 I currently have. The wait during the build has not been bad, but the wait to get it here, will be terrible. OH as far as oil goes, I ordered a case of Valvoline VR1 10w30 conventional oil. the VR1 has high Zinc content. As for flywheel pics, here it is.

wait... hold the phone you have a lift...

Could be it. I was willing to sacrifice some top end for mid range punch. I told Eiji that many times. Peak HP numbers are not what I asked for but for a vintage road rally engine. He said these cams like to be advanced a little. I am thinking madkaw is right. With this setup, I am getting exactly what I asked for. An engine making great mid range power.

I can answer that Eiji mentioned something about the cam alignment pin being slightly off but that he was able to compensate for it

I did some digging through Eiji's email. The cam was originally a .495 lift and 290 duration when it hit. He said the ROSS pistons were slightly different than the P79 pistons, an the .495 lift just barely touched. also the cam was advanced 3 degrees on the cam sprocket (Nismo comp timing gear on cam) which leads some credence to LeonV's advanced statment, but I know as the cam sits in the car, the IN is 105 the EX is 111 lobe separation is 108 Again, I am going to trust Eiji on this one.

madkaw, I did not take any offense at all. You were just giving some very sound advice.

Fair enough, I hear what your saying. It is not lack of outright desire to know, more of availability. Most of these new dyno shops around me only know EFI late model mustangs and camaros. I will try to find one though when it is all broken in.

Well I will definitely call around to try to find an hour or two of dyno time. But I have to be honest with you. If my AFR come in spot on, and it drives fine, I will be hard pressed to care. Sure I may be leaving some power on the table, but if temp is good, AFR is good, power feels good, not sure it will matter to me. I cannot emphasize how much I want drivability over peak HP. I think dyno tuning can drive you crazy trying to track down that last few HP. I have a feeling I am going to be quite happy. But my only worry is what LeonV said. 10.5 is quite a bit of squish. So we will see what happens. I will say this...If I get it and it just feels weak and my AFR is spot on, I will want to know what is going on.

Yes, in the simplest of terms. But another thing critical thing to look at is lobe separation and valve overlap. A longer overlap will also decrease cylinder pressure since you spend more time with both valves open. This all has effects on when the cam is in the sweet spot. To be honest, I have to go with what Eiji recommends on this. He thinks I will be fine on 93 octane. I have no reason NOT to trust his word. I was planning on running 10-15 deg initial advance and 33 max as a starting point. The only dyno tuning will be with me on the road with my O2 sensor. Better than seat of the pants, but I may look for a local dyno shop near me. Most guys at dyno shops near me only want to deal with late model muscle cars with EFI.

It is a chromoly steel flywheel designed to be 9 lbs. NO idea who the vendor is. Eiji has a vendor he likes. Again, he is running it on two of his cars, so obviously if it was good enough for him, it is good enough for me.

I got some more information from Eiji about my engine. Target compression with the ROSS pistons (86.5mm) is about 10.5:1 -- sounds very healthy to me. Datsun Spirit custom grind cam: 275 Duration/.480 lift with 108 lobe centers -- no idea what that would do in a L motor, but a 480 lift in a V8 is pretty nice without being to extreme. 9 lb flywheel Really looking forward to this now. If anybody has any doubts about working with Eiji, stop and just talk to him. A more personable engine builder I have never met.

Great weekend and awesome perseverance. One day I would love to get back into racing for fun and for points, but not for money. It is a great hobby, and I dearly miss it.

Eiji said it will ship this saturday. So figure a week after that it will be in my garage on a stand getting the extras mounted to it.

Not sure it matters as long as its pretty and shiny!

I will get all the details on cam duration and lift and machining specs when the engine is delivered. I can report back then. I am looking forward to what a healthy L28 sounds like with triples and a 9 lb flywheel!

Blue I read many articles on the N42 and P90, and both seem to have great size valves but the P90 seems to have a larger combustion chamber. Eiji recommended an N42 to me, as he has an N42block/N42head combo in one of his current cars and was able to tell me exactly how it would work on todays fuels and ignitions. The N42 is drilled for both carburated and injected engines, and that will bolt to my current triples manifold with ease. I have nothing against the P90 head, and really the biggest reason for going N42 was simply the availability of a good condition core to start the build. Those are flattops? Did I say something to confuse that? I apologize if I did. They are ROSS forged flat tops from MSA.