240dkw

I have been thinking about getting a game camera as well, we have bears in our back yard all fall. Here is a photo of one about 15' up in a apple tree in the middle of the day. The tree is in the lot across the street from my house.

Checked mine today and no plastic cover, but my car is not a early one and I can not say for sure that the one I have is original to the car.

I think the hazard switch on a 73 will be a pull knob that lights up green and a 72 would have just a toggle switch. as well the faceplate for the heater controls will be back light on a 73.

1+ for welding, I would worry that they could work loose if you ground them down. Now that I say that, how will the glue react to the heat from welding? So filling them in with goop makes the most sense.

So I tried a bar of soap, and I have to say it works well. There is less pinning and as well the soap makes it easier to clean the file once the pinning starts. Thanks for the tip.

Mine is HLS30 06513, so the single blank is earlier, but not by much. Is that a Canadian car?

Well look at that, my original E41 has two blanks on the top and the one in you photo has one. Wonder which one came first?

7too7 Just to be clear, this is the set up you want?

You are correct, I have been using a selection of general purpose files. As well I learned something today. ZtooZ I sent a PM

That sounds like a great tip, I will try the on the one I have left to do.

I start with a large body file, than finer files until the shape is correct. Than on to sandpaper going from 80 down to 600. After than a couple of 3M super fine and micro fine sanding pads. Than on to the buffing wheel starting with the black and finishing with the red polishing compound. A clean with Mothers Alum polish to finish it off. It is quite a bit of work to get one done. The most aggravation comes from the files loading up with alum and causing deeper scratches than the file.

And that is the only thing I miss from work after retiring.

Not sure what you are saying . the PCV connection is still there under the left linkage arm where it always was. These have both the PCV and brake vac connections.

Found a couple of balance tubes in the carb bin. Thought I would try my hand a welding alum. They turned out OK, but if you look close you can see the fill area as the wire I used must be a different alloy than the original alum.

Here are a couple that might help, I do not have a good pic with the final plate welded on like in the first photo, but I did weld one in.

It is a immersion type https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/zerostart-5348/accessories-16449/winter-accessories-16523/engine-heater-11348/freeze-plug-engine-heater/3100040/4871285 standard equipment right from the dealer on most cars up here. But I agree with everyone he should still stay away from that motor.

JSM FYI that is a block heater, not a frost plug.

There is a bit of information in this thread. It is a HLS30UN

That is great, glad it fired up. Now to get it on the road.

Thanks: I have tried to get the paper to change the rare statement, not sure where he got that information. Not from me! I hope he changes it.

Too bad you are only around for a couple of weeks, might have talked you into comong up for this. http://alljapaneseclassic.com Dan

I see it has the hard plastic cover on the wiper motor as well, wonder when the change to the soft bag happened.

Cool, My car had both the bracket and connector on the gas pedal. I found the lever and cable on Ebay. I have always had my hooked up since I finished the refresh on it. It is way too cool to remove. Not sure how it is unsafe?

Jerry: Have you tried your local Nissan dealer. I bought one a few years ago for $175 cad.

That is good news, I am sure after helping you take it apart and look at all of the parts that the MSA kit came with two "lower" seals and no "upper" seal. But why we could not get it to work using a mix of the old and new parts I do not have a answer for. Glad you are done fighting with it.