TomoHawk

Which inlet hose is that, the one between the AFM and the intake manifold? I had the side cover of the AFM off, and it looks like the flapper closes all the way. Are you referring to the Thermotime switch, instead of the coolant sensor? I tried checking my cold-start injector according to the Haynes book, and it doesn't spray any fuel AT ALL, but the engine is still rich, and starts easily when cold. On my engine, the vacuum line to the pressure regulator (small can on the fuel rail?) doesn't have a really good seal. Problem? You didn't mention about adjusting the tension on the AFM flapper spring to lean out the mix. Also, I noticed that you don't get much power off the line on mine until you push the gas pedal halfway down. I assumed that's because of the TPS switches? If so, I don't seem to notice any extra power at WOT on the highway then. thx

You obviously have a cross-connection between the switch and the flasher unit. the flasher's function is to breakup (pulse) the power to the t.s. bulbs, but before it, the power is just on or off, like the headlights. Since the dash bulbs don't flash, it tells me that the switch wire and the output from the flasher might be switched. Trace the wiring to see where the circuits are crossed, or switched.

On 6/25/03 my 280 weight in at 2670 lbs. with the a/c in it, not much gas, and me@185 lbs. I took out the a/c, but added a full-size spare.

What did you say, Rick?

Too bad you didn't have the TiVo going to upload the video...

ZedRally's comment has a little sense to it, BUT, as everyone knows... current flows along the Negative (-) leg of a circuit, so I resist switching that side.

Then why did the engineers run BOTH lights through just the one switch in the original wiring? You have a fuse for each light, but they both go through the one switch.

Good info on the alarm. It looks so simple, I wonder why I couldn't find a circuit schematic to make one up myself. I need some help too, now, to figure out why my tacho stopped working. It's raining today, so I can't get it into the garage to get under the dash. thx

Lord Baden-Powell couldn't have said it better. God save the Z

the resonators aren't properly named. They're called EXPANSION CHAMBERS, and are designed to trap the exhaust/sound of certain frequencies to 'resonate' inside and cancel themselves out. there's nothing inside but space for the pulses to bounce. Modern mufflers are designed with suchchambers inside, and so they are bigger in size, but the older/sporty cars use them to decrease backpressure & make more power while keeping the exhaust tube size small.

I was going to agree with you straight away, but then I remembered that on the 78, there is a sensor on the speedo, not the tacho, that goes into the computer. But I think your idea is a good one; worth looking into. thx

The last time I drove my 280Z, the tacho worked, but last week I was cleaning the intake, then covered the car for a few days of rain and now the tacho quit working! I thought maybe I broke a connection or something. Does the sensor wire go from the coil to the tacho, thought the firewall by the battery? I was trying to trace the wire, but it's not easy with the covering. :hurt: BTW, where's the ballast resistor on a 78 280Z (F.I.)? thx

Since you brought up the topic, Does anybody know of a GOOD source to get one of those headlights-on reminder/buzzer things? NAPA doesn't have them, and a J.C. Whitney search gives you 500 items matching 'headlight reminder.' :/ I killed my battery twice last week. thx

There's a pin on the back of the steering whel that hits a springy-lever-thing on the turn lever to turn it off. You might take off the steering wheel to check the alignment of the pin to the lever and to see if the lever goes back to off. If it feels mushy, you might also clean the gunk out of the lever pivot & give it a LIGHT coat of lube.

That's what I would do. I already replaced the one off the regulator, the day I got the car. I could also re-route the injector wires, clean everything up, and other stuff at the same time. thanks.

Go getit weighed! You can find scales at the places where you buy bricks/cinderblocks...

My 78 280Z. Recently, while driving on city streets, way out in the country-burbs, my engine would just cut out with your foot on the gas, pushing just a little. So I let off the pedal, and the engine comes back., push again and it "stalls" like if it was floodded or the injuectors suddenly quit. A couple times it happened turning a corner, or when you accelerate off the light, usually just after the 1-2 gear change. I was thinking there might be a problem with the wiper on the AFM, like water or oil on the resistive strip. or something with the flapper. Any thoughts? thx

I just finished my 2CD set of 'Zed Rock!' It's got 10 songs per, and fills exactly, a 90 minute cassette. Good, rockin' car- type songs, one after the other...

The crimp clamp is not the problem. Can you put on a new hose, with any kind of clamp?

On my '78 280Z with original everything... The #3 injector is dripping small drips (fortunately) of gas onto the intake manifold. I thought it would be easy to just replace the one rail-to-injector hose, or all 6 for safety. then I noticed that there is some kind of a crimp-type clamp on the injector. Can you still replace just the hose? thx

I was a Boy Scout & leader for 25 years.... :| And I remember ALL that stuff! not

On the 280Z, there is a plastic trim panel you have to remove. BUT, before you remove that plastic panel, you have to remove the hatch stru/support on that side.

Use all new wiring. Try to avoid the old, cruddy wires, which will make the lights just as dim as it was before you added relays. Make sure you have a proper ground connecton. It will be tough enough having brighter lamps ifyou are still using the rusty original plug on the back of the lamps. It would be nice to put in new lamps & connectors.

The lights have only one ground for each bulb, and the power wires are always hot, the ground leg being the switched one. Use the OEM switch to trigger the relays. I'm planning on one relay for both high beams, and one for lows, and you shouldn't need a fuse to power the relays; a very small one should do (check relay specs). I think the last problem is to have good, clean connectors on the lamps themselves.

Are you sure that you don't need 2 power wires for the stereo? Most newer ones have two. One (always hot) for the clock/memory and one (switched) for the amplifier. Plus ground.