TomoHawk

Gor the last few years I've put together a CD of Christmas tunes for myself. This year's includes: South Park- Merry F- christmas - Mr.Hanky Otis redding- Merry Christmas baby TSO- (with Mettalica, of course) foxworthy- redneck 12 Days Ramones - Merry Christmas Sex Pistols- Punk Rock Christmas

I like Wil's idea about the 84 maxima transmission, and it's been on my list for over a year- just one of the last things after the body work and maybe an engine overhaul. I think, my actual reason for inquiring on this subject would be because it seems the shift points are too low. I would like to adjust them a little higher. I like the idea of the overdrive tho. I was planning on doing a lot of highway cruising when I got this car totally done. Like between Ohio & Florida. Maybe I'll even move myself down there (No offense Chris & Vicky! ) thx

I was in Apollo beach last weekend! Why didn't I go to see the show? O-L... I was there to visit my sweetie and her dad...

In case you just want to bypass the troubleshooting and go for a NEW unit: rear window defroster http://www.wholinks.net/Automotive/Accessories/High-Performance-Electric-Defroster--Defogger.html This link is old, and doesn't work any more, but you can use it as a start. thx

I still like ferraris best. The 250 GTO, 166MM (Barchetta), 246 and 308- in that order. The others are are all good too. thx

Carl, I do "drifting" every winter! And at low speeds, like under 30 mph! All you need is a cold night with a little rain and you're guaranteed to see people 'drifting' all over the place... We even do it with the truck in the fields, but usually, a curvy section of road will do. I even did some the other day in my 280Z on the main street, after it rained. I was a little surprised to be looking at a pole. fortunately- no police.

Having contiguous gridlines is essentialy understood by all. I think my question would be what else to look for, in terms of current draw, voltage drop, etc., to know if the thing is operating at the level it's supposed to be. I think there will probably be some degredation in the performance or the efficiency of the grid in total, but there should probably be some minimum specs to shoot for. thx

Can somebody find out what they call that, and what are the basic rules or procedure? thx

I want to go after the rear window defroster, which doesn't seem to be working; I turned it on one evening when it was foggeed up a little, and it didn't defog that much. I don't think there are any gaps in the gridlines, so Would it be better to optimize the voltage at the defroster terminals, or should I measure the current capacity of the circuit, to see it it's drawing XX amps, or what? thx

That's better than "drifting," which is really only driving in a straight line. Let's see those drifter- types do that.

Those are 12 VOLT l.e.d.s, usually they are 1.5 volts., so you'd need 8 of them for your 12-volt system, so you can avoid using the dropping resistor. PLUS, these must be specially made with an internal resistor.

Thank you, thank you! Somebody once called my 280Z a rice-rocket once, so I IMMEDIATELY corrected the idiot's ignorance. Thanks for the compliment. Steven.

I got a zero... ?

the l.f. corner of my hood could come down a little (6mm) for a perfect fit. I looked at the hinges and it didn't look like there's a slot there for the bolts. How much up/down movement of the hinges on the fender is there? thx

i've seen these l.e.d. "bulbs," but not in the auto parts store ( Murrays- was there yesterday for bulbs). I've only seen them on Internet sites. even the local rice-shop doesn't have them, or even know of them. I hope I just picked the wrong store to go to. I think I will call some other custom auto-electronics shops. I don't mind using conventional filament bulbs on my 280Z, since I have no fusebox 'problems,' except for the dim headlights. But I would like to brighten the lighting on the gauges. I've seen the l.e.d. bulbs for those. thx

All you need is to hook up a battery with patch cords to the dash harness so you can clean & test the lighting circuit. I've traced the lighting circuit on the wiring diagram for my 280Z and drew it up in a separate notebook (for future reference) so I can see the simplified circuit while I'm working on things. I've got a few circuits drawn up in there: fog lights, wipers, radio, dash lights...More as I need them Do the other connections/circuits too? which circuits are there for you?

I usually just go with the usual alcohol, you get at the DIY (Home Depot) store. I've used it on many plastic r/c model (boats & car/truck bodies) with no damage whatsoever. I prefer NOt to use nailpolish remover of any kind. I'm also undecided on Mineral Spirits, but it sounds like it should be OK for that 'tough' plastic you get under the hood.

The Z used by Chevy is actually spelled "Z/28", which was the designation for the powerplant, drivetrain, suspention and other options used on that model Camaro. IMO, referring to "Z" for your Datsun only happens as an affectual way to abbreviate the line of Z-family cars. I'll bet the BMW people refer to their Z3s and Z4s as "Z-cars." Maybe they don't know or don't care about the Datsun Zs?

I think you gotta remember one important thing: If your car isn't already in perfect alignment, what good will a strut bar do, besides keep your car in its currently twisted condition? Before you go to fit a strut bar, make sure the geometry of everything is absulutely perfect. Some strut bars may have adjustable ends on them, but that's there to adjust the length of te bar to fit exactly where your bolts are, not to push apart or pull together something that's not in perfect geometry. Think of it thisway: You'll have to use that little screw to stretch the radiator support apart (not going to happen) or to pull together the struts that are connected with a steel brace that's even stronger than the strut bar itself. FWIW

OK, per Carl's request, I'll ask HERE, for the trans doctors if there are any shift kits or mods available to the JATCO 3N71B 3 speed trans, to improve shifting, or adust the shift points, or whatever? An add-oneverdrive would be nice. thx

I think it's the sand or aluminum (harder) media that heats up the body metal and distorts it. The soda, or even plastic, makes less heat. The good thing about soda is you can wash it out of the little crevices, and dry with air, where sand, aluminum & plastic may get stuck in there, and that traps water, making it easy for rust to get a start. The worst part of blasting your car body (or anything not done in a blasting booth) is that you get the media ALL OVER: in your hair, in your shirt, down your pants.. No matter how good you think you shake out your clothes & hair, you still end up bringing it in the house. You might consider going swimming in a pool or a bike ride to get the stuff off you and not bring it home. Maybe you have a buddy that's building himself a garage, so you can borrow it and cover the floor & walls with media, like we did.

My gas foot gets a little warm on summer days too. the MSA/VB catalogs tell you to use THEIR header wrap to keep the heat in the pipe & away from your foot. Anybody try header wrap with success? BTW, I just have a stock exhaust manifold. thx

I hope your insulating against the outside/underside temperatures. I don't recommend you do the doors, so you can hear the traffic around you, police sirens, emergency vehicles, etc. I couldn't hear an ambulance once in my Z last summer and I had the radio off & windows down! Fortunately, the light turned green and I was able to get out of the way.

If you have rust/particles in the fuel, it might be able to jam the injectors open, and they spew fuel constantly. Backflushing the injectors to clean the tips is one thing to do.

You mean 21/2 Ohm, Not 1/2 volt? If you're getting voltage from the battery Neg. terminal to the chassis, you definitely have a problem. thx