TomoHawk

My 280Z had the key code on the inside of the glove compartment lid. If youy get your code, write it down & keep it somewhere safe.

It's on Lake Havasu.

Uh Oh.... It looks like another "what's a stock car?" discussion. Nick- it's nice to see your wife was with you. I wonder how many couples were there?

Do you have a point to say, Frank? Stevens point says it all. they didn't start using the 17-digit VINs until the 80s.

I don't think you'll get anything from Carfax. they only go back to about 1984- I tried to get one for my 78 180Z and couldn't.

How do you know you need to replace the ball joints? thx

I was wondering if the bumper height on the '78 280Z is consistant for all the cars? My front seems to be higher, or the back springs are sagging, but I can't tell without taking the struts out (too costly). thx.

The power goes direct from the fuse panel (one fuse per light) to the headlights. Then the headlight switch completes the circuit to ground, not the power to the lights. Try to get yourself a wiring diagram. Wipers.... It sounds like the control relay( amplifier) isn't working right, but might be something else. You might try patching a wire direct to the motor to check the motor.

Very true... As everybody knows, current travels along the ground leg of a circuit so it's important to have good ground connections as well.

NO, NOT NEWSPAPER!! Newspaper soaks up the paint, and it can stain through the paper. Either use masking paper, or the shiny magazine-type paper (biggest sheets you can find).

It must be a combination of the old wiring, and corroded connectors. I've been de-rusting my connectors as I get to them. I dunno if there's anything you can do about the cruddy wiring. I'll be your older mustang has nice, shiny strands under the insulation.

I believe many of the connectors were made by Amphenol (AMP), but due tro the age, they're no longer available. Otherwise, you'd see some cottage businesses that would be making the wiring new. We could ALL use new wiring, except the people that bought the Pain-in-the-arse wiring systems.

I like using 'Cast-Blast' cast-iron paint on suspension & underbody stuff, or just a polyurethane clear.

I had a professional guy do it.

I just got the engine decarbonized, and it seems to have helped a whole lot. When I first started it, the idle was significantly better, but it still bogged a little when I revved it. I'm not sure if it has more power, but drives OK.

Thanks for the offer, Steven. I'll see IF you can get a new set (with the flexible wires?) That way, if I can't fix, it- no worries. :sleepy: Which years were compatible with the 78? I'll try calling around again, to see IF there are any in my area. thx

I tried putting air into mine, and it wouldn't fill up, and the rubber was hard as a rock, so I tossed that too, and opted for the full-size spare.

One of the green wires broke off the Master Cylinder cap on my 280Z. It broke off where it goes in the cap. Is there a way you can repair that?

That looks very nice.

NOT! It's got a brushed finish and the thing is mostly covered by the handle, already covered with black vinyl, so you don't see a screw unless you go looking for it.

I bet Kats would have the answer to this one.

I think thoses cheesy pieces look bad, so I took them out traight away.

I think the most important point is that the finish be a flat or matte shade regardless of if you use grey or black. I agree on the use of Duplicolor paints in these areas.

O I C.... Basically, just another way to let air in & lean the mix. Good tip, Steven

Is there another name for "air regulator?" I In the Haynes book, I see something on page 229, but it doesn't say much else. thx