TomoHawk

Good pointr. I had one link go bad from disconnecting it so many times while working with the doors open that it broke inside and I couldn't tell until I tested it.

Fuse links for t he Z cars are sapecified by thickness in sq. inches, or sq. cm., not gauge. Make sure you got the right one. You could just buy the right one from MSA. I think the lower right one is for the cabin power, right? what are rthe other two? thx

Now that I'm thinking about ground connections, how would you test them to see how good they are? Would you go with the restance accross the ground point? How would you test the ground connection for something like the headlights, or the gauge lights (highest on my wiring l'debug' list). thx

I even have a buzzer thing made up so I can test for power by myself, like the horn circuit, or any time you need people in two places while testing. It's basically a tongue depressor with a Radio-Shack 12-volt buzzer glued to it. One wire on the buzzer goes to a probe/pin (so you can clip on a wire with alligator clip) and the other wire has a ground wire/alligator clip to clip onto a ground. You might even invest in a0.99 (Dollar store?) circuit tester with the bulb in it. thx

I might switch to the Talbot-style mirrors, the plastic black things on my car won't stay where you adjust them to; Close the door too hard & you gotta readjust them. The only thing is that I don't think the mounting holes match on the mirrors I have

Somebody mentioned that their engine will stall when the a/c is on, so I mentioned there is a thing to increase the idle speed to compensate for the extra load.

I've been after some software that allows you to put together photos to build a 360-degree view of the car, so you can rotate it. A screensaver would be nice, but if you could put it on a web site, other people could check out your car by rotating it around, maybe even the top & bottom! Any ideas? thx

At least on the 280Z, there is a vacuum thingy controlled by the vacuum solenoids to increase the idle speed when the a/c is on. Since I have no a/c, I took that off, along with the EGR which wasn't workling. I might put it back on to see if it would help, since it was sucking fresh air and not connected to the exhaust manifold.

It says: Shareware Version - Distribution Forbiidden

I have some finer rubbing compound. #1, I think? I was going to try that on the glass, since I don't have any brasso or the other stuff. I had a can of Mothers Al polish somewhere, too....

All you need is a piece of aluminum or steel tube. flatten the ends & drill a hole, or attach mounting plates. then maybe bend the middle with a curve for clearance. Anybody should be able to make one of those.

I would agree with Enrique that you don't want to grind your glass any thinner, to preserve its strength. Isn't there some kind of coating, like you put on your eyeglasses, to fill the (micro) pits? I might try an experiment, to skin on a very thin layer of clear polyurethane. thx

the one on my 280Z has a LOT of glare at night or driving with a low sun. I assume the Florida air had "sandblasted" it that way, so I either have to get it coated or polished. thx

Why do you want one? There should be many threads on the subject, including how to make one. Try a search.

I think when I finish everything else, I'll take the center console out completely, and cutout & cover the hole where the ashtray was. That way I can put a fire extinguisher between the seats. I only need a place to mount the change holder- no need for an ashtray. the armrest is only for storage of repair tools right now. thx

I think I would go with the screw-in snaps. The original ones might still be in there. I will have to go look. I'm not to sure about using velcro for things that move often.

My 280Z has something like this. I think it's because if the stall speed of the torque converter being kind of high. I just start pushing down on the gas pedal at first with very little thrust, until the RPMs come up high enbough to get the torque converter to kick in. I had it sideways on the main street once! ( wet street- no traffic or police, fortunately) good thing I practice sideways in the winters, but that's in my Escort, which is FWD thx

Well, after I took out the a/cand a bunch of other heavy things, and added some 'sportier' (skimpy) seats, I'd say that my 280Z is now an UN-luxury sports car. No heat, either (a little trouble with the vacuum hoses which the radiator shop couldn't figure out which goes where). Add to that the basic 2-speaker FM-cassette radio, lack of carpet, etc., and I'd say it really was a sports car. Albeit, the extra weight makes sharp turns a little fun, but it'll go around the corner at 30+ MPH

The 280Z is supposed to be a luxury sports car. Probably safer from all the extra sheet metal.

I just finished my auto trans shifter boot. Thanks, Mom. (she had to do the 'mom' thing- sewing isn't manly ) the leather is from the Salvation Army store, pattern using careful measurements, and the two halves were STAPLED together? Here's some pics attached, and you will see the two bracket things I made from bent box tube I got from an old chair. I will scan the pattern for the two halves Monday. thx for the 'collaboration.'

Is there a cause of squeel for the rear brakes. I had mine check a while ago, and the guy says they were good (perfect drums, rotors, good pads & shoes. But the right rear squeals. I think he mentioned that a little rust from sitting outside will do it. thx

That is a problem with production header units. The usual cure is to modify the mounting holes on the header so it fits right, but only if there is enough material to do it right. You see this on TV DIY car shows, bit not often.

thanks Will, Keep in mind I have an automatic transmission and no center console, so I'm winging this. I'll need to make a plate with hooks (or something) to mount to the floor or the carpet and attach the shifter boot to the plate and the shifter. I'll make sure you get credit for doing your part (on my ferrari web page- timeline) thx

I keep my receipts in a shoebox, except for the full-sheet ones like tires & service repairs, which go into a clear plastic sleeve in a 3-ring binder...

The hardest part of the shifter boot is figuringout how to attach it to the floor, or carpeting.