TomoHawk

I don't think so. Another thing to give the car away as a California car would be the altitude sensor, which mine doesn't have either.

There's no evidence that there was a catalytic converter on the car. AFAIK, it was always a Florida car. I could be wrong about the relay under the passenger seat- it could be for the a/c or something else. I don't think there was ever a sensor by the muffler area either. thxZ

Mine says Floor Temp, but it's not that noticeable, like the low fuel indicator. And yes, only the CA cars had the sensor and the other stuff. Mine has the relay under the passenger seat, but it I don't think it's connected. I don't know why it had the lamp in the vent panel, because it was never to be lighted.

That's what I have. draztik- The right hand light indicates you are low on gas, and the left one says "Floor temp" I think, to indicate the exhaust/muffler is getting hot, and the floor is getting hot too.

Mine is supposed to have "federal" emiisions, whatever that is; hence my question. There isn't much documentation on the different emmissions types.But from what I did learn about catalytic concerters is that they are designed to operate in certain regions of the U.S., (Like southwest/hotter states, New England/temperate area, alaska/arctic, etc.) and you can't just put "any" catalytic converter on it. thxZ

I usually have trouble soldering aluminum too. Usually the soot from the flame is the problem, but since the parts are very small, I can reclean, and try the 100W soldering ion. fwiw

Do we have pictures or drawings of the different emmissions labels, for informational purposes? Mine is supposed to be "federal" emmissions, and since there is no label on the hood (or it was covered with undercoating) the exhaust guys are a little uncomfortable working on the exhaust. thxZ

Did all the 280Zs have the floor temp light thing above the vents? My car is supposed to have "Federal" emmissions, and there's no floor temp sensor, so the indicator light is useless unless there's another use for the light, like a fog-light indicator? If the floor temp indicator was removed, the panel would look unbalanced. thxZ

Will a mini-spare fit in the tire well, if you can get one to fit a Z? Anyone know the dimensions of the spare tire well? thxZ

Can you get a collapsible spare tire like the OE one? What about a new tire to fit the spare wheel? I'm sure you can get the air cans, but the tires?

Nobody managed to jump the curb, I assume? :eek:

With a manual transmission, you use a different RPM to set the timing.

There are other topics here regarding the resistance values of the sending unit.

Yes, disconnect the vacuum tube from the advance pot. The 800 RPM is with the transmission in gear, btw. I just had my timing done. Now it has a much better idle, especially when cold, better fuel mileage (the exhaust no longer smells like fuel) and more power when driving. thxZ

Good point Jeff, I had a little trouble with mine in the 78 because it was reading about 1/4 tank when I was really empty. After cleaning the connections (the gauge connection apins and the sender plug pins) It was corrected. I used Deoxit on the pins to clean them. The local place that reseals the gas tank (gastankrenu.com) will also do the sender unit, so you might consider that instead of getting a new one. thxZ

Radio Shack doesn't carry too many resistors lately, so you would probably be better off going to a radio or TV repair shop. Maybe BD or MSA would have that.

OK, so the next question would be to decide which would be more apropriate as the next action: 1) Have the oil pump extracted to check the distributor drive shaft is correctly installed? 2) Have the distributor checked and questionable items rebuilt or corrected to get it correctly installed, since it is 180 deg. off? thxZ

Can that ( moving the oil pump gear) be fixed without "taking the whole engine apart?" (refers to the FSM) Ah... there's a note about how to set the distributor drive spindle and installing the oil pump, so I think the answer is yes, the oil pump can be (extracted from below.) thxZ

I checked the ignition timing on my car yesterday (finally) and the mark (marks) are off the end of the timing indicatior. BTW- which mark to use; the one on the pulley or the balancer? Maybe one was filed in by a PO? Anyway, the engine runs, but I had the distributor turned all the way to get the timing mark to about 20 degrees (at 800 rpm, without any vacuum advance.) If it was a V8 engine, I'd say the dizzy was installed with the drive gear a tooth off, but the L28 dizzy only goes in one way or the other (180 degrees different.) I think a visit to the Nissan dealer to have the S30 guy look at the dizzy will be worthwhile. Maybe have him rebuild it? Just getting it that close helped the engine run SO much better. Lots more power at any speed, and increased fuel mileage. I wonder how it'll run when I get the timing right on. :laugh: Any ideas about what might be going on? thxZ

Read up (hint: use the search feature) on how the other kinds of seats are installed, and you'll get a good idea of how it's supposed to go. then you're on your own for your install.

I've had the EGR, and all the tubing, off for a few years. It wasn't working anyway. If I ever get the engine out, I would cut off the egr lobe and close it up.

The reason why there usually aren't details on how to put the different kinds of seats into a Z is because the procedure is basically the same for all; modify the stock supports or make new ones. Some are individually documented here in the forum area, but it wouldn't be practical to document each swap you see in an interchange list, except possibly for a short note on whether the stock suports were used, modified or replaced.

It's obviously a typo, but a humorous one. Like the recent Fred Jordan interview.

This Z conversion car has a 2,800 ci ENGINE! Article: http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/142_0307_1962_ferrari_250_gto_replica_kit/index.html The engine: http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/142_0307_1962_ferrari_250_gto_replica_kit/photo_03.html thxZ

The reason I got some is because the brake guy put on two new rotors because it was squealing, stating new rotors would cure the problem. Since, I have had squealing and one side grabs more than the other. I'm surprised there is even room enough for the shims to fit! Fortunately, the brake guy is nice enough to fix mistakes and only charges you for work DONE. BTW- in the picture above, what are the "anti-squeal springs" for? IMO, they are part of the anti-squeal 'system' since they only touch the pins the pads slide on. I think I will pick up a set of caliper hardware for some new anti-squeal springs; maybe the ones on there are too old or weak to work right? Sailor Bob- My car never had the shims since I got it, and none of my repair books has them. Apparently, the "restoration specialist" that sold me the car took them out as one of the many things he did to "restore" the car, along with wiring the blower fan wrong, wrong radio wiring, funky a/c wiring & vacuum/refrigerant lines, $50 paint job, etc. thxZ