AZ-240z

E, I do think you are reading to much into it. Lets take the part numbers at face value. E-4100 numbers have always represented the earliest parts. N-3000 numbers, later applications. My car, 1/71 production, had the single piece tubular weatherstrip when I purchased it new. If you look at Kats web site, he took great care in puting on the correct, single piece outer hatch weatherstrip on his blue car, as represented in one of his pictures. Banzai Motorworks sells reproduction single piece tubular weatherstrips through his catalog on line, and Mike McGinnis at Banzai represents this as correct for the 1970-1972 240Z. He is one of the most knowledgeable, quality restoration experts that I know of. All of the original, unrestored examples I have seen has proven to me that the single piece is correct for early cars. So, you are correct E to say that it depends on who believe what. It is something that I researched when restoring my car. Dan

Actually, the tubular one piece was original to series 1 cars. Banzai sells the repro piece.

Chris, I usedthe plasti-dip to restore the oil press sender wire harness clip that attaches to the right engine mount. It came out PERRRRRRRFECT! I snapped off one of the under hood harness clips and have thought of making one. If I could find a sheet of metal stock of the correct malleability and gage, it would be easy to cut out a duplicate clip of correct size and shape, dip one end in plasti-dip, put a dimple in the other, exposed metal,end to simulate the appearance of a spot weld, and then, using a dab of a body shop epoxy, fasten it in the correct location. Just a quick and dirty outline of one possible method. I have used an epoxy before that body shops have used and it is extremely strong. Parts will break before the epoxy fails. A little touch-up paint deftly applied and it would be indistinguishable from original, I am certain. Dan Dang, Jerry, you were too fast for my slow typing and thinking!!!!

Keith, I consulted my trusty club parts CD, and came up with #24220-E4101 for this wire clip. This part number is used up to, and beyond 8/76. Kats had researched this item and found an early iteration of this clip. He shows pictures on his web site of both early and later styles of this clip. Dan

Keith, Chester & Herod auto carpet is still in Escondido, just google chester & Herod for contact info. Dan

Do a quick search for stock vs. aftermarket thermostats. ONLY USE NISSAN OEM THERMOSTATS!!!!!!! Dan

Michael, I can only confirm that the two decals I have pictured are gold. I also think that they were made in a silver material originally but have no first hand knowledge or evidence of this. I don't necessarily agree that yours represent "early" and "late" examples. The decal with the part number was meant for cars in the California market as stated on the decal, but both, as indicated on the decals, were applicable to 1971 model year cars. My car was acquired from a California dealer when I purchased it in Tucson, had the 1971 California gold decal on it, but it was destroyed in the restoration process, thus my need to reproduce one. Your decal, as revised, look real good. I will mention, in my experience, that the things that you really need to pay attention to is, not only the font style, but the different degrees of boldness of the type. Too bold, or visa versa, and it doesn't look authentic. Also, the finish of the gold is a satin, not glossy, finish. Too glossy and it look reproduced. The gold is more of a gold/silver color with just a hint of a greenish cast. Hope this hasn't confused the issue, just things I have struggled with when I did mine. I'll be a buyer when you get them finished to your satifaction. Dan

Bob, I know that there was at least two different aftermarket evaporators, each with a different location of the drain tube fitting, that were used with the dealer installed airconditioning systems on the early 240z. I will try to attach a picture of one of the systems showing drain location. Dan

Michael, this is the last emissions decal that I have reproduced. The pictures shows the gold material with kind of a mottled finish. This is scanner reflection as the decal is very uniform in color. Dan

Michael, I'll try, again, to add pictures from my files of these decals. The first attachment is a gold, not silver, of a '71 decal that does not have the part number. The other is also gold with the part number. I've done the first one without part number on gold, and am still trying to get the other decal with part number correct to my satisfaction. I'll also try to upload a picture of the first one I did later. Dan

[ATTACH=CONFIG]45212[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45210[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45209[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45211[/ATTACH] Michael. Sorry, but I still don't see any quotation marks on the pic of your original decal (attachment #2). I'll try to attach a picture from my files for clarification. I meant to say that the part number is 14805 E4603, which you corrected. Dan

Michael, With reference to the second attached decal, the 1971 Calif. with part number, the font on the top line appears a little small, and spacing of the words on this top line is off. The word neutral has no quotation marks on this particular decal, and toward the bottom, the 6 %, the % symbol has a small line connection the top of the left zero to the top of the diagonal slash. At first glance, everything else looks real good, and, your are correct in that it is gold. The tuff part will be to get a real good match to the original gold finish. Good luck. Also, the part number should be 14605 E4603, not E4503. Hope this helps. Dan

Thanks, again for the great prompts for my pics, Chris. Just took a close look at my balance tube and found "E46 JAPAN" cast into the underside. When compared to your picture, Chris, this would be found on the other end and opposite side of the balance tube. Needed a mirror and flashlight to see it as it is on underside as mounted in the car. The other difference is, it has both hose connection locations, top or end. The end port in mine has a threaded plug, and the check valve to balance tube hose is connected at the top location. And, again, my car is one of the very last series 1 cars (vin# hls30 20419). Dan

Thanks, Chris. I'll give it a shot. What-da-ya-know......It woiked. These cloth tags that I have appear to be a soft, shiny silver, silk fabric with an adhesive on the back. Dan

Arne, Ive got some cloth tape tags that came off of OEM NOS Nissan braided fuel line. I would like to upload a scan of these from my PC, but have not got a clue how to get this scan into my photo album. REALLY GETTING **%$^&*@#$%$#$$FRUSTRATED!!!!! This new format just isn't working for me. Can't find anything. CR*P! Well, got that out of my system. Dan

Thanks for the pic, Randy. Your picture may be a little blurry, but not as blurry as the parts many find on transition cars, ie., late series 1/early series 2 cars. Dan

esprist, I just mention this just for informational purposes, and as the original owner of one of the last series 1 cars made in 1/71. I have seen a number of series 1 cars made in 1971 with the mastervac hose from check valve to air intake manifold fastened at the top of the intake air manifold, and not the end of the manifold as is the case with early series 1 cars. Just an observation and point of interest, and perhaps others with original late model series 1 cars might comment with there build date and vin #. Your contributions and efforts to provide high quality parts is much appreciated. Thanks Dan

If you go to the "search" function at the top of this page and plug in "dash protection", scroll down and select "any date", you will find about four pages of threads discussing this which I think you will find quite informative. I'm not blowing you off as I, too, am having some difficulty trying to navigate this new format and find things that were helpful to me in the past. I have a NOS dash in my car, and have the same concerns. I use a dash mat with no glued or other attachment fasteners, keep my car garaged, and use Vinylex, a vinyl, rubber, and plastic protectant. There are chemicals in the dash vinyl that out-gas, or evaporate under dry, hot conditions with a UV sun exposure. The vinylex is supposted to replenish those chemicals. There are many other products that profess to do the same thing, your choice, but I think it is a necessary component to protecting the dash from deterioration. Hope this helps. Dan

Just for clarification, the "check valve to intake" hose you show here is the style that is on my series 1 car with a build date of 1/71. The series 1 cars had both the early and later style for this hose. Thanks for making this available and I'll be in line for a set. Dan

Hey deadflo, I just did a quick check of my parts CD and, from what I see, the door glass changes after build date of 6/75. So, I don't think glass from the 12/75 280Z will work for a 71. May save you some grief. You should be able to find aftermarket glass for your 71, unless you need or want the originality of factory glass. Dan

Bought my car new on 3/71 and the paint color and texture on taillight finisher panels, D-hubcaps, and front grill was an exact match on my car. Paint is gray, and texture is what Wick Humble, who wrote the book on How To Restore Your Datsun 240-Z, called a match book scratch texture. Dan

Are those window emission decal shown in your third picture reproductions? If so, could you tell me your source as I would like to have one for my car. Thanks. Dan

Actually, my point taken is just the opposite. The aftermarket thermostat with the smaller opening, restricts volume of flow and rate of cooling done by the radiator. The Nissan OEM thermostat, with it's larger orfice, allows a larger capacity of flow and cooling. First hand knowledge! Dan

If you take a close look at these thermostats, side by side, you will probably notice that the orfice opening of the aftermarket thermostate is small than the Nissan OEM thermostat. Another good reason to buy quality Nissan parts. Dan

If you are getting that much of a temp extreme, I would pull the radiator and have it rodded out, boiled, pressure tested, and definitely install the correct thermostat. Restricted flow in the radiiator core will definitely defeat the purpose of the cooling system. before taking it out, though, being very conservative, I would also put a chemical flush through the whole system to make sure there is not a large sediment buildup in the block which may not allow efficient heat transfer to the cooling medium. Not that expensive to do if removing and installing components yourself. Dan