AZ-240z

Original owner for the last 38 years, 8 months, and 14 days.

I can only agree with everyone else. Have purchased a number of NOS parts for my series 1, pricy, but very satisfied with all transactions. I have talked numerous times with Carl. He is very easy to work with and will attempt to find any part you may need. Dan

Something to consider. You may have two really good parts cars. Depending on the degree of originality you are looking for, it may be much less costly to find a good series 1 bodied car and build it up using the two rusted cars for parts. Even if you were able to do all the rust repair using parts from one of these cars, I would think that a good knowledge of uni-body structural integrity would be needed to keep it safe. Just some thoughts, and best of luck with your project. Dan

Bob M That just reminded me of a prep step recommended to me by an auto paint supply house, and it has worked for me when spraying SEM or other paints on plastic or vinyl material. This supplier sells very small boxes of Tide dry laundry soap. Mix some of this soap with hot water and clean the surface thoroughly and paint really sticks. Never had a problem with the paint rubbing off, flaking, or pealing with this prep. Just a thought Dan

Will, Have you resourced some of that "exquisitely thin magnetic sheet" material? I recall seeing that idea somewhere in the forum before and sounds like a do-able idea, possibly even in a judged event. Dan

I would, also, recommend Lexol Vinylex in a blue bottle for all plastic materials. I did a little research on-line of products recommended by detailer experts and a popularly recommended product for plastics was Vinylex. I use it on my NOS dash and all new interior vinyl. The results are a low gloss finish that is not as slippery as Armorall and it doesn't seem to attract as much dust as other products I have used. Dan

Hi Keith, I have reproduced and provide the master vac and Hazzard switch decals for Banzai Motorworks. I can tell you that Mike at Banzai, from my experience, is very particular about total quality. My purpose in making these decals was, initially, for my own car, but, once well into the process and hundreds of dollars later, I was glad that there was a demand that allowed me to recover these costs. This should pretty well speak to all of your concerns. Hope this helps. Dan

Rich, That arm rest is one of the dealership provided AMCO after market products that were offered for new cars. I had one for my car but the bad news is one must drill two holes in the console to install it correctly. When restoring my car, I found another perfect console and bought one of the Motorsports cupholder armrests which just sits on the console, easily removed, and no need to drill to install. Original, nice, AMCO arm rests such as yours are not easy to come by so hang on to it whether you use it or not. Dan

Chris, Nice Bridgestone, but I have a general comment about securing the spare tire in the tub. Is it just me. It seems that, more often than not, when someone posts a picture of the spare tire, the hold down bracket appears to be installed upside down with the rubber protected edge of the hold down facing upward, instead of down and against the steel wheel for protection. Interested in opinions if I have this all wrong. Dan

See www.classicdatsun.com. Les Cannaday has this paint available to match the NOS color. Dan

I am sure someone else will chime in shortly, but, just off the top of my brain, I believe that this is a grease reservour found on the rack of early, series 1 (politically incorrect characterization of the early 240-z) cars. Depending on your bent toward originality, it would be neat to possibly find a replacement. Dan

If I am interpreting the rules outlined on page 7, paragraph A, Stock Class, correctly, it appears that the statement, "Air-conditioning must be factory installed", now eliminates the dealer installed York units of the early series 1 cars as a stock item? Do the firewall holes for the A/C hoses need to be patched, or will rubber plugs be adequate for no point deductions? It will probably be a long time before a convention makes it back to the Western region where this could to be an issue for me, but I just thought I would ask for clarification for all who may be concerned. And kudos to 26th-Z for all his good work with the Z.C.C.A. Dan

Tomo, Here is what Wick Humble says on page 118 of his book "How To Restore Your DATSUN Z-CAR". If the harness is salvageable, but the tape is loose, peel it off and rewrap it in manageable sections. Duplicate the "factory" look when retaping a bundle of wires by starting from the extreme branch end by the terminal and taping toward the thicker baundle. By using a blind-end technique--taking a wrap of two toward the terminal end and then over-lapping back toward the trunk of the bundle-a very slick appearance can be obtained. This also helps prevent the bundle from unwrapping later when age and heat have taken their toll. This book is a must-have, in my opinion, for doing quality work on any Z. Dan

I say, take the original bones of this very early example of a car that we all cherish and covet, replace and repair that which has rusted and worn out, renew that which is salvageable, and it will be the pride and envy of all of us. As we all know, the task of finding NOS, or equivalent, parts worthy of this pedigree will be the challenge and, in my opinion, would be much more desireable than, as Chris eluded to in post # 15 above, a much less than perfect "time capsule" of originality. FWIW/ Dan

Mike, I believe that the correct decal for a US 1970 240z would be the football shaped decal shown in your first attachment. I talked to Mike at Banzai about the install of this decal, and he said that it should be placed so as to be read from a position standing in front of the radiator looking to the back of the car (just the opposite of the antifreeze and pain color code decal placements). I also have a 1970 Road & Track picture article on the 240z which shows this decal on the car profiled in the article. I know that Mike went to great pains to make sure that the gold color was exactly correct for this decal and this is the one I put on my 1/71 restoration. Hope this helps. Dan

My window sticker for my 1/71 series 1 car is like the one seen in the first pic attached to post #81 above. Under Port of Entry, the top box says in all caps "LOS ANGELES, CALIF", and the box underneath this says, "M.O.T.TRUCK". Hope this helps. Dan

Well, at one time I was tempted to chime in with some back slapping exuberance to try and elicit more pictures, and information on this very unique find, but! I fear that that might, in some way, might be misconstrued as being politically incorrect or erroneous, in some unintended way, so! I'm just going to have to wait and postpone my enjoyment of things of real importance about 00013 until the petty commentary subsides. I am far too old, with life concerns of a far greater magnitude, than to allow a terrific place such as this forum of total enjoyment to add any anxiety that already exists in my life. Sorry, just had to vent. Please ignore the previous as it was just for me. Dan

The early factory choke cables were originally twisted wire strands contained in the plastic sheath housing the cable. These were later replaced by Nissan with single wire cables, as the original multi-strand cables had a tendancy to kink and separate within the plastic cable housing. I agree with 26th-z. If lube doesn't solve the problem, most likely replacement, especially if it is the original multi-strand cable, may well be the answer.

The early 45 amp 240z alternators on series 1 cars had triangular cut out sections on the rear of the housing that resembled sections of a grapefruit that had been cut in half.

Carl, I have no direct documentation, but I can confirm that my 1/71 series 1 car came from the dealer with the summer/winter flapper feature as standard equipment. Carl, you inquired of someone else, as I glanced through other responses to this thread, about documentation in the owners manual. Well, I just dug out my original manual, in presitine condition I must say, and issue dated of 15th November, 1970. On page 16 of my manual, under -cold engine (cold weather)-subtitle for - Operating the Car -, I will quote the relevant paragraph. Quote, "When the outside temperature is 60 degrees F (15 degrees C) or below, turn the frost control valve lever on the air horn of the air cleaner to the position "Winter". It has always been my understanding, and this seems to be corroborated by by ZTherapy in there discriptions of the air filter housing that they are selling, that the summer/winter feature started with the 1970/71 change-over in either Aug or Sep of 1970. Hope this is helpful Dan Dan

These numbers are from the club parts CD: #18415-E4100 up to 01/70 #18415-E4101 02/70 to 08/71

Hello Kats, Arne, Your point about sufficient rigidity of the fuel hose was also a concern of mine. I have two of these fuel hoses, one for each of the master vac hoses, and am planning to use 1/4 inch copper tubing inside these fuel hoses to both shape, and strenthen them. Can you think of any reason that copper tubing wouldn't work, instead of using the brass rod that Kats used? I will also put a lenth of 1/4 inch electrical wire in the copper tubing while shaping it, just to keep the copper tubing from kinking during the bending process, then just pull the wire out (hope it doesn't bind up in the tubing). Let me know what you guys think, and, Kats, this was a terrific idea. Dan

Try Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, and look in the catalogue under wiring. He, also, has a lot of things that aren't necessarily listed in the catalogue. Good luck. Dan

Let me try that address again. Somewhat computer challenged. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm Never mind. I guess this is what you had previously found. Sorry for the duplication. Dan

I don't know if this is the thread, but look at the thread "Door hinges" post #14 started by a7dz. It will give the the following address. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm