72zcar

The drivers side tie rod nut and the threads on the tie rod itself is reverse threads...I learned that one the hard way:stupid:

white smoke = head gasket (most likely) or cracked head or cracked block

sounds like a alternator to me. Take it to auto zone or kragen they will go out to your z and test your system for free. call around first because I have found that not all the stores have this testing equipment.

here is something I just thought of... do u have the lines connected to the maqster cylinder correctly? The front (closest to the radiator) master outlet goes to the rear brakes and the front brakes should be connected to the oulet on the master cylinder closest to the firewall. In other words front goes to back brakes and rear outlet goes to front brakes.

does anyone know what he is talking about?

baby vice grips.

could be the #1 cylinder and rings are worn...or could be the valves need adjusting. I am thinking if the valves are too tight in # 1 then it could cause low compression in that cylinder, maybe someone else could confirm this.

I think that's your switch for raising and lowering your power antenna

yes, you must remove all the spark plugs for a accurate test. If not and there is a head gasket leak between cylinders you can get a false reading because the cylinder next to the one being tested with the spark plug left in will compress and show the inaccurate reading. Removing all spark plugs is a must...

makes me:sick:

I have a 73, but mine doesn't have the button on the turn signal swich:cry: Just the thing you pull to switch to high beam

What makes tham flash? and whats a stork?:classic:

Did you buy it without ever opening the hood? I think I will go out anf check the condition of my cable:tapemouth don't want this to happen to me.:dead:

yep...

psimkin, i have a 350 chevy 72... hauls assLOL what kind of tranny r u going to use? The reason I ask is because if u go with a T-5 tranny you do not have to remove the tranny mounts in the tunnel. I am running a th-350 tranny myself which did require the removal of the mounts in the tunnel.

I meant to say nine yrs:bunny:

cus he wants 300 + hp and 350 ft lbs of torque from a stock engine with a few bolt ons like intake and headers... thats whyLOL all the hood are interchangeable from 70-78... for eight yrs hoods, headlight buckets, fenders and doors were all the same except the later years of doors are heavier because of side impact braces.

take out the motor and all the running gear...make it as light as possible and turn it into a peddle car. Have two sets of peddles, one for the driver and one for the passenger. There will have to be gears like in a 10 speed to get any top end... if it was light enough it might just workROFL

Have been thrashing my 72 v8 z around town a bit shaking the bugs out and yesterday I took it on its first freeway trip... the engine is a 350 chevy, the tranny is a th-350 and the tires are 225/70/14 and i used the msa speedo cable. When at about 60 mph it says 90 mph. hahaha now what I know there is a gear somewhere to replace with a different one, where does it go and how do i know what gear to buy Thanks, bob in ca with (as of yesterday) a registered and insured and running (hauls arse) v8 z...hahahahahaha :classic:

hahahaha .. not really a dump question because there is no such thing.

then the post ends with the dumb question... :stupid: how about my question "I know that u knock them from front and they come out from the inside (back)...i'm just not sure if there is enough room... anyone?"

I went ahead an bought 16 new studs (the backs are longer if i remember right) and all new lug bolt... when I do it I am doing them all.

I know that u knock them from front and they come out from the inside (back)...i'm just not sure if there is enough room... anyone?

2 many, so there is enough room in back to knock the old stud out and install the new one without disassembling anything. This is what im assuming... on the back wheel drum i will have to remove the brake drum knock them out of the other thing...then as described above then pull the new one on by tightening the lug bolt, stack of washers might help on the front after removing the front tire should be able to do it without removing anything else ok set me straight... thanks:alien: