72zcar

do what Timberwolf said to do for sure.... take the hose off the metal line on the out side of the fuel pump and stick it in a milk jug. make sure you remove the coil wire at the coil so it won't try and start... like thats going to happen, and see how much gas is being pumped. It should pump out pretty good.

As far as in the old days.... 10-15 years ago all zs would flash there headlight as they approached each other... this is the cool way. But I really don't see this anymore. I think we should start this up again... and as an added bonus any woman in the zcars could also flash .... now this could be the start of a great new trend man...

wow... hahahaha wow

Hey Zvoiture - No I haven't been out to the MarinaCross yet, but I've been trying to make time... I really have no excuse because I actually live in Marina (i put monterey on the thing because not to many people know where Marina is). - My dash is really hammered beyond belief on my 73 (the 72 v8 z dash is cool) so I was thinking about what u said about epoxy and was thinking about filling the cracks on the dash and painting it too... what do you think?

what kind of paint did you use to paint your interior? The brand and type of paint if you remember... thanks

check the firing order of the plug wires 15 too young 36 too old and 24 just right

its going to be interesting to see what mike or zmanyzs has to say about this... it seems weird because even if its possible for all four shocks to go belly up at the same time why would they suddenly rub the springs... the springs are in the position that the would be rubbing if the tires are to wide even if the shock are good or hammered. must be aliens...

that's weird... all this in an hour. did u let someone borrow your car that weighs 600 lbs:stupid: ...hahaha. did u just have new tires installed that are wider? It seems so strange that you park it and its fine and an hour later it all the tires are rubbing on the springs...anyone got any ideas? www.72zcar.50megs.com

Are you saying my car is an ugly transexual ... thats messed up...hahahahahaROFL ROFL

I'm not sure if I should be offended ...are you saying my car resembles those remarks? www.72zcar.50megs.com

It would be hard for me to cut up a real clean original 240z... but on the other hand if it already is upgraded in other ways or is very tired and would end up in the scrap yard anyhow I feel like its still a z saved. My v8 z is almost done, it's a little slow going because I have three z's and I also work on my friends 71... gotta work, only get sundays off. www.72zcar.50megs.com is my site for the v8 72 240 if anyone wants to check it out. zyaROFL

hey, nice clean looking z... the front air dam looks like the one msa sells? I have been wondering how the air dams with the fiberglass bumper built in work. do they go over the steel stock bumper? Or is there a metal bumper behind the fiberglass bumper? or .... is it just fiberglass? I was just thinking about the safety of the fiberglass front ends. :tapemouth

zcar Sspecifications http://www.geocities.com/~z-car/specs/

I have a 72 v8z and a 73 z... the 73 had the same crappy flat top carbs, smog pump and all the crap on it when I first got it. It ran like crap :tapemouth so i did a compression test (155 in # 1 and 160 in 2-6) so I was happy. Took all that crap off, installed 72 su carbs, 72 intake, 2 1/2 in exhaust, header, turbo muffler and bamm runs like a champ. Like night and day. Oh yeah, thanks for the link..

hey patmsb, can you post a link to the page on the dmv web site that has this info... I found the site http://www.dmv.ca.gov/ but I can't find the page on the site that has the info about the 74 cars being exempt in 2003. I believe you... i just cant find it. :stupid: Let the hunt begin for all 240z zcars and now... 260z cars too... its getting better. 260z's are a little heavier but would make a great v8 swap. put it on non-op and by the time its done it will be exempt.......hahaha this is great news

thats great... 74 cars exempt in 2003:classic: . Does that mean that in 2004 75 cars will be exempt?

Maybe you have the linkage set to full throttle... i don't have webbers but i did manage to get the linkage reversed one time(that was enough) on my su carbs so when it started it was full blast... no fun

trust me... its 73 and older that is smog exempt...shoot for a 71 or 72... 72 being the best in my opinion. A 73 is also ok but unless someone already swapped them out will have the crappy flat top carbs:beard:

If I were you I would look around for a 70-73 240z because the 74 you are looking at needs to be smogged in CA. I don't think you could remove the big flat tops and replace them with nice su carbs and still pass smog... there is a bunch of crap coming off those flat tops that is probably needed to make the smog man happy. maybe someone else knows for sure.. I would leave it alone...

this is a pic out of the msa book, lousy camera... it says 70-73 is the same part then it changed in 74. You can almost make it out. I really need a new camera:ermm:

I have a 240z with a 280z electronic ignition distributor. I have been reading and it seems to say the resistor mounted on the fender well by the coil is not needed when you run a electronic distributor. And even limits the output of the coil because the ballast resistor was there originally to limit the voltage as to not fry the points, but since I have no points anymore taking the resistor out will increase the voltage output of the coil. Is this true? And if so do I simply remove the resistor and connect the wires together? Thanks...Bob This is what I read: BALLAST RESISTORS Surprisingly, stock coils on older 12V points systems on every car were designed to operate with a max of 6-8 volts. The reason is that on points distributors the entire voltage from the coil passes through the points, and too much voltage can burn them out. So the ballast resistor was put inline with the 12+ wire to the coil to limit the voltage it puts out. When you turn the key to start, the ballast is bypassed, and the coil gets a full 12V to put out a hotter spark for starting. Releasing the key inserts the resistor back into the circuit to preserve the life of the points. Why not design the ignition to use 12V all the time? Well, nowdays they do, but before 1977 or so that's the way all ignitions were designed. This means if you buy a high performance coil and simply install it, the ballast resistor will usually limit the new coil's power output to nearly stock. So on a points distributor If you connect a wire across the ballast, it will route a full 12-14v to the coil and pick up some voltage, but it can cause the points to burn out more quickly. Don't bypass the ballast if you have a '75-78 280Z. The 280 brain supplies the coil voltage, and removing the ballast can hurt it by making the FI brain supply too much current. 280ZXs supply a full 12v and don't use a ballast resistor.

check this out... http://www.geocities.com/~z-car/specs/

i have been looking at the same lights too... anyone bought these. They look about the same as ones msa sells but its hard to be sure.

i have been looking at the same lights too... anyone bought these. They look about the same as ones msa sells but its hard to be sure.

or at least the uncle should let u drive it for a while so u can keep the z... and when the z is fixed give the granma car back with a full tank. sounds fair to me.