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About Inf

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    Austin, TX USA
  • Occupation
    aerospace engineer

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    03/72 240Z HLS30-70xxx

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  1. Having had the Tokico red springs, then the Eibach pro-kit springs MSA sells back to back, I can tell you that the Tokico springs will give you a lower stance than the Eibachs, I'd say anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" in the front (all other things being equal). The rears seemed to be roughly the same between the two spring kits. This was on a set of Tokico blue shocks just like you're using. I think the front Tokico ride height gave it a meaner look, but it had two drawbacks I'd highlight: 1) The front airdam was low enough that I had to drive the car up on some 2x6" boards so I could get the tall
  2. Someone give this man a Nobel peace prize! Glad you saved the car from such treatment
  3. Sorry I'd stopped making updates here while things were moving along. I've more or less reached an impasse, or so the guy on the phone would have me believe today. Keep in mind while reading this that I was NOT liable for the accident in any way (the other guy was) AND the other guy has insurance. I chose to work with my own insurance company because I thought I would get a more fair shake being that they are not who will pay in the end. My insurance company totaled the car out, claiming it would cost $7695 to repair. That should tell you something about what they think the actual value of th
  4. The cardboard glove box can go in from the front. Although it's pretty tricky, I've done it many times without destroying anything. I wish there was a straightforward procedure to do this, but honestly, it's just one of those things I always do by trial and error, and the process of "which side to bend inward" seems to vary each time I do it. I have always done this with the blower and air box in place. In fact, it's been trickier in my case than I imagine most of you will have because one of the large diameter A/C hoses is routed right behind where the glove box needs to go. I think the extr
  5. Hey everyone, Thanks again for the condolences. The local body shop I took it to has a good reputation and I'd used them for a very minor repair several years ago, but they were not willing to work on it this time around (or even really look at it at all) because it was was an "older model." Apparently they didn't even write up an estimate or touch the car at all. Even the hood had not been opened, so there was no way they could have inspected the front frame sitting in their lot. They sure made a bundle on the towing and storage fees for "2 days" (really 25 hours). Let's just say they picked
  6. Yeah, I am sincerely hoping things work out for the best. If the car is not totaled, I think things may be OK because I am confident my body shop will come through for me. I admit that most of my negative conceptions about what insurance companies will and will not do are based on hearsay where I don't know the whole story. Luckily, I've only had to deal with this sort of problem once before, and it was for relatively minor damage. I'm most worried about the car being totaled and not getting a settlement good enough for me to get a replacement vehicle that isn't a complete lemon/beater. I'm
  7. Thanks for the tip, I actually just called my insurance company to ask about that. I just now arranged for my preferred body shop to pick it up from the tow company. They'll perform an estimate and try to reconcile the cost with my insurance company. The insurance rep said they would perform a "local market search" of "similar vehicles" to establish a cost. This scares me because A) there are hardly any of this car around central Texas, and the ones that ARE for sale are almost always derelict cars in some field somewhere. I keep a constant watch on Craigslist using Google Alerts for Datsuns,
  8. Thanks guys. As I'm sure you can all imagine, I'm pretty broken up over this. I've had her for 8 years this month, and I always treated her like a friend, always putting her welfare over my own convenience. I've paid out the nose on rent just to always have a secure garage to store her in. Thanks for suggesting NADA pwd, I looked up my car and I believe mine is near the "high retail" quality based on the description here: http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1972/Nissan-Datsun/240Z/2-Door-Coupe/Values She was definitely way better than a 20 footer, and aside from the small paint chip I pick
  9. My girlfriend and I were headed down Lake Creek Pkwy in North Austin in light traffic on our way to dinner. There had been on and off again drizzle all day, so the roads were wet and pretty slick. It was dark, and all parties involved (myself included) were driving with their headlights on. We were both wearing our seat belts (both lap and shoulder belts). I was proceeding at what I consider to be a reasonable speed for conditions, with the flow of traffic, at approximately 20-25MPH in a 40MPH zone. As we approached the intersection, the light was clearly green at least 5 seconds before the co
  10. In an effort to close the gap at the top, I pounded the lip outward with some light taps with my mini-sledge hammer. I think it helped by 1-1.5mm or so at most. The trim piece just seemed like it was a tad bit too small to fit over the welting. The edge was pretty sharp too and, from looking at the gasket, it seemed like it would cut into the base of the bulb if I were to force it on there. As it was, I couldn't lightly press it on such that I could match the screw holes up either and I chickened out.
  11. It sounds like what you are referring to is the body seam where the roof is connected. From the factory it was sealed with lead before painting. Normal body flex and vibration can cause the small cracks over time
  12. Nice car, and welcome to the forum!
  13. Did the passenger door yesterday, went on pretty easily. Ended up adjusting the door striker all the way inward, bringing the door flush with the body finally. I'm still not sure if I got a good seal across the top. The door doesn't seem to compress the gasket much, if at all. If anything, I feel like the Kia gasket may be a little too soft. I tried the dollar bill test, and it was fairly tight everywhere except the top. I couldn't see an easy way to adjust the door to go more inboard at the top, I assume that would involve monkeying around with the door mounts? I did as a previous poster sugg
  14. Stoked as I am to see new retro wheel options, I must agree.
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