Diseazd
Community Member
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Everything posted by Diseazd
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It would be nice if someone like Dave (z'sondabrain) or Esprit could work this mod out and manufacture these shifters with the correct bend and angles to make this install a drop in. I own 2 early cars with A transmissions that I would love to be able to convert. I think they would fetch a nice price.
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PJOE just did the same thing with his shifter, but used heat to bend the B shifter to fit the console without cutting the shifter or welding it. It too worked without cutting the tunnel or console. Nice work!
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Your opinion......
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I agree with Gary.....Uni-syn is simple and fast. The best bang for the buck.
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It's trial and error.......make sure you are at top dead center on the compression stroke. Check the FSM for setting.......the half moon on the shaft should be exactly at 11:20, small section to front. It ain't rocket science. Do it right....you'll be happy you did.
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Nice car......looks original other than overspray on front strut tower nuts. Carl .......good to see you're still around. This car makes me want to place a bid, but I don't want to get as crazy as Jimbo!
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I would recommend using the bump stop.......not the GM mount. It's a lot easier install. You'll need to cut 2 of the little circles off. IMO
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My diff mount came off in 2 pieces . It's a 2 1/2 hour job, but by just hanging the diff off the mustache bar, it saves you a ton of time. The hardest part is getting to the driveshaft bolts and lining up the holes on the R/T mount.......Go do it!
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Just installed my fourth R/T mount in my 73. Remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft and hang it aside. Loosen the 2 nuts attaching the diff to the mustache bar as much as you can without removing them. Remove the 4 bolts holding the bracket that holds the diff mount as well as the bolt attaching the diff mount. Remove the bracket. Now remove the diff mount long bolts holding the diff mount. Remove the 4 bolts holding the diff strap and remove it. Install the R/T mount (saw off 1 1/2 rings from the bump stop before installing). It takes some coaxing to align the holes (a big hammer and punch). Reinstall the new diff mount with the long bolts. Reinstall everything. You may need to remove the exhaust also, but that depends. It's a super upgrade......you'll love it.
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That's obvious Captain!
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http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf Try this site........It should help make sure you're set up correctly. Then go to bleeding. Guy
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Nyuck! Nyuck! Nyuck!
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Bruce and Steve are "The Man". Good job on making your 73 much improved!
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I'm betting it's electrical now.......plugs, points, condenser......maybe a bad plug wire.....I once had a similar problem with almost new plug wires. When I put a new distributor cap on there was a green electrical corrosion where the wire snapped into the cap.
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I need a reaction disc out of an early master vac brake booster. Anyone got an old brake booster that they could dig one out for me. Happy to pay for your effort and postage. Thanks Guy
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Clean up the contacts at the battery and the starter.
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Jeff.....Please do......anytime you pass thru Richmond, you've got a place to stay.....some good whiskey to drink.....a good steak and some good car talk from both me and Five and Dime.......would love to meet you. Guy
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He makes the "Old Man" proud!!
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Ditto that....
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Great practice for your first Z!!
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Your problem is in the ignition. Like Steve said.........get a copy of How to Rebuild your Datsun/Nissan OHC Engine. When you install the distributor drive/oil pump shaft, pay special attention to the tang position (half moon tang) that hooks up with your distributor. When your engine is on TDC (compression stroke), if installed correctly, the distributor rotor should be pointing to the number 1 wire in the distributor. Then, remember that the rotor turns counter clockwise.......verify firing order. Sounds like one of these items has been overlooked. If you have a new chain and a stock cam, degreeing your cam is not your problem. All of this assuming that you installed the timing chain correctly (of course).
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Re the revving.....If it's not the pedal getting stuck on the floor mats, check the brake booster line on the firewall. If the hose gets out of the bracket, it can lodge against the throttle linkage. It doesn't take much pressure to keep the linkage from returning to idle.
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I agree with the Captain........Install a set of working carbs and eliminate carbs as your problem. This thread is going to last forever.
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The bottom of the shank should be flush with the bottom of the piston....not the bottom of the groove.
