Diseazd

Really nice restoration git ............done the right way. The end product will be awesome.......can't wait to see it. What money is made for!

BlackDragon shows them available at $169.95 or maybe try Spruell Racing in Atlanta.BD phone is 1 888 789 3746.

Blue.....When you shave a head .080 inches without shimming the towers, how do you adjust the chain slop? With the P79 shaved .080 inches, we use the early valves (.080 inches longer) and shim the towers and springs up .080 inches to end up right where we started. Just curious with how you make the adjustment on an N47 shaved that much? Guy

Right Steve......I notice the plug location is right in the center of the head chamber. I guess that's what makes it better, plus the peanut shaped combustion chamber pushes the compressed gases to the plug. I'll have to take other people's (smarter than me) word for it though.....I just do what Z Doctor suggests (except for my L24/L28 combo) with my builds.....then I put them together. I'm picking up another P79 modified head from him in Roanoke next week.....I'll run Stephen's numbers by him and see if he can shed light on the subject.....he's driving the bus.....I ride in the back!

"Holy horsepower Bat Boy".....don't ever say that! I run the .080 inch cut P79 head which is 10 to 1 CR just like yours. The P79 head is a more modern head, but shouldn't make that much difference. Z Doctor has told me that that set up won't have detonation because of the higher duration and lift of the Isky Stage II and Stage III cams that I run (don't know if that's true or not, but I believe what Doc tells me). Stage II is 280 degrees and .480 lift while the Stage III is 290 degrees and .490 lift. At 17 degrees timing at 1000 rpm, I can't make either engine ping, under any load. Seeing as your engine is close to my engine in just about every aspect, what is the lift and duration of your camshaft? Maybe that could be the difference, or maybe the increased deck height of your pistons are putting you closer to 11:1. If the engine runs good on an additive, so be it. It's your cheapest alternative. We can buy 100 octane race gas in Richmond, but it's $7.00 per gallon, which still makes the additive your best bet.

Leon......It did on the 71, I had to adjust the front valence on the 72. If you loosen up all the hardware, you can actually move the valence forward enough for clearance. I think the 225 50 16's fill the wells the best, but require substancial tweeking for everything to work without rubbing.

16X7" Wheels with 205 55 16" tires. I love the Eibachs with either Tokico Blues or Illuminas ( I have both and would recommend either).

Steve.....I didn't notice any difference at all. The squeaking drove me crazy and the silicon grease lasted a couple a months and the squeak was back. You can buy stock bushings right from the dealer and they are cheap. Maybe a full blown race car needs em, but street and weekend warriors don't IMO.

IMO.....The squeak drove me crazy.....I went back to stock bushings on my one car that had 'em. Go back to stock.....people outside your car will be a lot happier too!

He'll really enjoy getting the distributor/oil pump drive installed correctly. I'd install a new front crank seal also.

John.....Is anyone going to post the winners of the ZCON car show.......any Gold Medallions? BTW the number 33 Z looks great. Regards. Guy

Yes......That's fairly early, but not a 1969 car......Thanks

Your car has the early valve cover and oil cap (rare). What is your serial number and build date? You'll find that on the id plate on the driver's door post.

Hi Ruffy....welcome.....you're in for a treat.....show us some pics.

I'd love to see someone try to do that and get the chain on correctly at the same time...........I'd pay to see it!

Yes.....he's screwed and must take the front cover off! :stupid::ogre::sick:

gtom.....I found the orange car in the Classic Zcars Classifieds.....Everyone that sees my cars likes the 112 color best....glad you found a nice one.

TDC on the compression stroke....

Probably about right......BTW, the plug is in the end of the cam....right? Right Jeff?

Same here.....Isky recommends it (VR1). Also, do you fill your oil pumps with oil to prime them before starting a new motor? It's especially critical with a new camshaft. I also crank it w/o the coil wire attached and w/o plugs till I see the oil needle move (you have to look close because it barely moves at that low rpm).

Blue....It looks like a defect in that rocker.....is that an optical illusion or a little defect just before the bright wipe pattern? I'd try a new rocker and see if the wear transfers to the new rocker. If not, just run it.

Did you email a pic to Delta for their ideas? The people at Isky are always very helpful. I would doubt that spring tension caused the problem....Scneider has a ton of these on the market.......Call Eiji at Datsun Spirit, he uses Schneider cams and springs, he might have some ideas or suggestions.

Hi Blue.....Did you set up the rocker geometry with the correct lash pads? Pull that rocker arm and check to see that the wear pattern is centered. It could be that the cam is off the front of the rocker slightly. Sorry old boy.....

Thanks Jeff......I'm building two other engines at the time, so pulling that engine is on the back burner. I suspect oil pump, and will drop that this weekend. If the bearings are shot, I understand that when I drain the oil it'll smell like burnt toast. I go out of my way to keep an engine clean when I build them, and I never use RTV anywhere (I use form a gasket on the rear side seals and clean any excess on the inside), so that isn't a problem. I believe it's going to be oil pump related, but will have to wait and see. I've never heard of anyone having a failed oil pump....have you? Whatever it is, I hope that expensive E31 head is OK......we'll see, this is how you learn I guess......high oil pressure is a warning sign, just like low pressure.

Thanks everyone for your condolences in my time of need........you guys are the best!