Diseazd

This is the engine before installation .......sure was pretty.

Lazeum.....No it was the L24 block and crank on the gold 71.....I didn't use plastigage, but every standard on standard I've ever plastigaged has been acceptable, plus the crank spun effortlessly with the mains torqued. Besides, the pressure increased later, if it had been a clearance issue, it should have started from the first start up, but you're correct, it could have been an out of tolerance shell, but I don't think so. I'm bummed and haven't pulled the engine yet, but will keep everyone informed. Luckily, I have the L28 motor with the L24 crank and rods almost finished....it didn't have anywhere to go......now it does.....could be the gods.

If bearing clearances were too tight, the crank would not have spun so effortlessly when the engine was assembled....standard crank and standard bearings....you wouldn't think too little, you'd guess too much if anything. I use 30 weight oil.......I know nothing about an oil pump, but suspect that.....an oil filter wouldn't be blocked that quickly, especially after changing the first one......I'm stumped.....I'll be pulling the engine when my "pressure" returns to normal....what a bitch!

I did stop worrying and yesterday, I was trying to quiet what I thought was a squealing fan belt and the engine shut down. It is locked solid and will not budge.....my guess is that the bearings are welded to the crank.....trying to figure out what caused it. Check your filter and oil pump Madkaw.....high oil pressure is not a good thing......I think the squealing was bearings not fan belt.

I too run a stock oil pump.....I changed to a new oil filter (Niisan) after the first 200 miles as always when I build a new motor. The engine has 2000 miles, so if it were tolerance based, you'd think it would have been toast by now. Also, the crank was polished and passed as standard, so I used standard Clevite bearings. I'm very careful to keep things spotless when building my motors. I'm stumped unless the new oil pump is defective.

What would you suggest.....a new oil pump?

My 71 240Z (L24engine) runs 75 lbs. of oil pressure at 3000 rpm. It's not a defective gauge. What can cause high oil pressure in a Z motor? The engine has 2000 miles on it and runs perfect.

Body work is done.....the block sanding is starting. My guess is she'll be ready to paint by the end of August.

My John Deere Gator was more expensive than that.......hats off to Nissan for entering a new market. I'd install Panasports and Goodrich KDW II's Bruce.

You need a new inspection sticker......:bulb:

The first lap after the parade lap at Road Atlanta will go down as one of the biggest rushes I 've ever had in my life! I'm a big Greg Ira fan too, but I'll be pulling for the guy I first saw at the Esses at The Roadrace of Champions in 1970. I'll be contributing and pulling for John......Good Luck old boy......do it one more time!!!

Whatever the stock gasket is.....I believe it's like .055 inches.

Yes......flush. I'm using a stock P79 Nissan head gasket.

Installed the .040 over ITM pistons. Torqued the main and connecting rod caps. Looking good. BTW Madkaw...the pistons are flush with deck.

John Morton is the reason I bought my first Z in 1970. I watched him blow the competition away at Road Atlanta.......it was awesome. Can't wait to see him again, and if Sam is building the car, it should be a heads up competition between him and Greg! This is great!

Installed the L24 crank in the L28 block......spins like a top!

Just remember......much better to run a little less advance if in question. Detonation destroys engines!

Jeff....I plug the vacuum advance and run 17 degrees advance at idle. It seems with the higher duration camshaft, you almost must run more advance at idle. I have no idea what my total advance is, but I run the stock European distributors or the stock Datsun distributors on all mine.

Mitchell.....I think this is my favorite combo......I love how smooth the package is. I really don't know how many engine/heads I've done...counting 510's, I'd guess 20. I love building these little monsters. I really don't have the patience to futz with the triples, and the SU's give me all the rip I need. I'll never install less than a Stage III cam however.......good to hear from you....Regards. Guy

More cool stuff restored or new.......

You're a brave soul Jeff......I'm proud of you!

Getting started on the build.....scrubbed out the block.....masked, inserted the plastic freeze plugs I got from Eiji. Cleaned out the head stud holes, attached an old front cover,acid etched primered, then Datsun blue.....looking good! The block was cleaned and bored .040 inches before painting....

Thanks Jeff......I've never timed a cam before, so not sure where you contact the lifter. Also, since you are just ckecking number one at .050", isn't the 0 to .5" indicator good enough to time the cam? How about finding TDC with the head off? How much travel would you need in the dial indicator to locate exact TDC? BTW, back to the thread.....I picked up the block and pistons yesterday, so I should be moving on with my build shortly. Thanks Guy

Isky sends a complete instruction sheet on finding true top dead center as well as degreeing a camshaft with each of their regrinds. Their precision ground cams are so precise that you can use the stock locating holes (according to them). I need to get those items anyway......who sells em?

Gotcha.....Need a good dial indicator.....I'm looking forward to hearing how she runs with your new set-up.