Diseazd

Right....code 21-2330 is 70-74 240Z and 260Z......use 21-2121 collar for 70-74 240Z and 260Z. Code 21-2331 is for 75-83 280 Z or ZX non turbo.....use 21-2122 collar for 75-78 coupe 79-83 non turbo.....as Zcars mentioned above these will give you approximately 92 mm from friction surface to collar fingers. 280 or 280ZX use 280 collar.....240 Z and 260Z use 240Z collar as stated in a great big paragraph above. 2+2 and turbo's are different combo.

Cliff....IMO, everyone tries to make this more complicated than need be. No matter the tranny (240Z or 280Z or Zx, 4 or 5 speed, A or B ) they are all the same dimension. The important fact is that the geometry of the clutch arm is correct. Simply stated if you use the shorter 280 Z or ZX clutch, you need to use a 280 collar (taller)to get the proper distance from the flywheel to collar fingers that ZH mentions. Since the 240Z's clutch pressure plate is taller, you need a (shorter) collar to get the same distance......simple as that. You don't need to worry about measuring anything.....280 clutch used with 280 collar works.....240 clutch with 240 collar works....simple as that....in any of the above mentioned trannies (2+2 not included). I have had success with the taller 240 clutches and use them in all my cars since I don't want to mix and match. I've never installed a 280 clutch, so can't comment on which is better.....love my 240's though. Cooper didn't know where the slave cylinder was, so I think we should keep it as simple as possible. He needs to buy either a 240 or 280 clutch with a matching collar. He can measure the collar that comes out and buy the corresponding clutch if he wants to save $12.00 for the collar....his choice. And as far as a flywheel goes, I think he should stick with a refinished stock flywheel IMHO since remember not only he couldn't find the slave cylinder, but still hasn't even adjusted it yet to find out if that fixes his problem! BTW....Throw out bearings are the same for either clutch you use. Also, he should order from MSA IMO....they can match his order with the correct collar whichever route he goes.....and regarding your question above....yes either Amazon clutch will work in the 240Z tranny with the correct corresponding collar......short is 280 ......tall (more expensive) is 240.

Not true.....The 240Z 4 speed (early and late) trannies, the 280 and 280ZX 4 speed and 5 speed trannies......all are exactly the same dimensions. You can use either the 240Z clutch or 280Z in any of them. The important thing to remember is if you use a 240 Z clutch, use a 240Z collar and if you use the 280Z clutch use the 280Z collar. This is because the 280 pressure plate is narrower than the 240. I use the 240 Z clutch arm (with the hole) with the 240Z clutch and the 280Z clutch arm (for the self adjusting slave cylinder) with the 280Z clutch, but that's probably not necessary.......you can probably use the self adjusting slave cylinder and arm with either clutch....just not sure. All of my 5 Z's are F54 blocks and some 240Z trannies and some 280ZX trannies, but all use 240 Z clutches, 240 Z collars, early arms and adjustable slave cylinders......

That's not the slave cylinder Cooper......it's on the side of the tranny (underneath). You need to get a Factory Service Manual (quickly)

If your clutch is slipping, it needs to be shorter. Spin it in till you've got 1/8 inch clearance (you'll feel the clutch arm loosen up) then lock it together. 5 minute job.

If you need a clutch (adjustment doesn't solve the problem) , you should IMO install a stock Exedy 240Z clutch pressure plate and clutch disc. You will need to have a 240Z collar ........(MSA) will know which size that is. You also need to replace the throw out bearing if you do have to replace the clutch. If it were me, I'd just use the stock flywheel (get it resurfaced). You have a type B tranny if it is the original transmission. It doesn't matter what tranny you have, if you keep the clutch and collar 240Z, you can use that combo in any Datsun tranny.....collar and clutch must match.....240Z clutch needs 240Z collar.....280Z clutch needs 280Z collar......but like I said....adjust the clutch first....see if that solves the problem.

Yes....If adjustable, you want 1/8 th inch play between the end of the clutch arm and the adjusting nut.

A stock clutch is more than sufficient for your engine. You either have a worn out clutch, poor adjustment of the clutch, incorrect collar or oil on the disc. I would start with adjustment since that's a ten minute job and it's free.

Don't make silly promises Robert.....you know you're hooked!

I bought 4 front and 4 rear 240Z European bumpers....paid $1519.00. Wow....less than $200.00 each. Sorry to see them go....I always had good luck with Black Dragon. Good Luck to all the good folks at BD!

You gotta love the human race! He needs to list that on "Bring a Dump Truck"

Exactly....I had a throw out bearing seize and the rotating finger tips of the pressure plate actually welded to the bearing. This locks up the collar to release arm.....thus torquing the shaft that broke. Transmissions are cheap.....replace the front cover with a good part. Ditto on the pilot bushing....when swapping from auto to manual, it's crucial to install a pilot bushing!

Beautiful Z, but the Woody Staub Z is my favorite. Absolutely beautiful!

Cut the head off 6 pan bolts.......loosely install them in several well spaced locations......slide the gasket and pan onto those headless bolts......get someone to hold it up tight.......thread in a half dozen real pan bolts, then you can install the rest of the bolts....remove the headless bolts and replace with good bolts....Voila!!

Looks stock to me......Isky charges $175.00 to regrind. Depending on the lift, you'll need springs and lash pads. You mentioned .500 lift......should not be a contact problem if you overbbore your L24 by .030 inches or more....also, you'll need a shorter valve seal. What engine are you running?

Good job Blue......nice illustrations!

What about cows? Wanna race that horse?

I don't drink often, but when I do drink, I drink often!!!

Does anyone else think that those hone cuts look awfully big? I think if it were me, I'd have another machine shop do another hone cut.....wouldn't cost much....good insurance. BTW, I think you can still get Nissan 73 Pistons at your local dealer. The flat top without reliefs are NLA........and I also believe if I remember correctly, ITM pistons come fly cut for the L24 motors. SB.....can you look and see if the Pistons that came out are ITM or Nissan? And Siteunseen....can you take a pic of the chambers in that E88? Just curious. Love your dog....looks as crazy as my pooch

Awesome....steel (L28) seats, valves and a nice Stage III cam and you'll be all set! BTW, when you install a higher lift cam in the L24 head, you'll need to install low profile valve seals to keep the bottom of the valve spring retainers from beating against a stock (taller) valve seal. Your block has already been over bored .75 mm (.030 inches), so you should be all set there.

If you have the low compression E88 head, I'd dump it for an early E88 or E31 head. The 73 heads are low performance. If your car is a 72 with the original motor, you should be running an early (good) E88 head. Get steel seats (L28) installed and L28 valves and a higher lift cam and you'll get a nice boost in performance

Yes.....the 1973 low compression 240Z's came with fly cut Pistons......and yes you can go up to .500 lift (Isky Stage III is .490 lift) as long as the L24 block is over bored .030 inches or more.

Wow Rich.....It just doesn't get much better than that! Congrats on an absolutely beautiful car!

Matthew......My L28's with the shaved P79 heads and Isky Stage III cams build about 170 h.p. To the wheels (200 to the flywheel), with SU carbs. They pull hard through all rpm ranges.