Diseazd

Chuck is adding a rear spoiler on my 70 white Z.....I just like the look!

Installed a new Black Dragon front bumper on my 73......much better look!

Is last Sunday vintage? John finished first in a 46 car at VIR. Congrats Steve Bonk and Sam Neave too.

Some cars should just go to the crusher.....obviously you are not going to let this one die.......I agree with Mike....just amazing.......more new metal than old metal!

That's correct, the early valves are 2mm longer, so if you have an early head N42/N47, this shouldn't be the problem (valve too long). However in Datsun engines, if you grind the top of the valve, the keeper groove moves closer to the "cupped" lash pads possibly causing the lash pad to contact the keepers and eventually dropping the valve. Valve height should probably be fixed with new seats (old seats ground too deep).....not by cutting the top of the valve stem. With all the problems you've had with this head, you might consider dumping it and while you're at it dumping your machinist. Call someone Datsun savvy (Eiji at Datsun Spirit) or someone else reputable and have them build you a new head.....one that you have confidence in......just my humble opinion. BTW....the engine is beautiful....looks like you've done your part

You said your machinist shortened a couple valves. Hate to throw up another point of concern, but if you shorten valves in a Datsun engine (with cupped lash pads), the lash pad can actually hang over enough to contact the valve keepers.....not good. If you have the flat bottomed lash pads, this isn't as likely a problem......Sounds to me like your machinist doesn't know Datsun engines very well....IMO..

Fabian....Looks like a really nice Z..,,,,Congrats!

You guys are awesome....I love your creativity.....grannyknot, I'm impressed....Careless...where is the final shot of your first Resto? I know how you feel....once restoration is done, you're ready for the next.....the fun is in making something ugly beautiful again. How's this for a before and after.....

No....couldn't make the race....nice to see 46 winning again....congrats to Steve Bonk and Sam Neave too.

Thanks, thanks! BTW zKars......our names crossed the finish line first at VIR last weekend with Morton at the wheel!

Anyone know if 240Z hood hinges are identical to the hood hinges used in the later 280Z's?

No Mike no drilling holes in the floor boards....just a 3/8 inch hole in the lip (over hang) of the rear suspension cross member. I used a 9 inch extension on my drill so I could drill the hole without taking anything apart or removing the big suspension bolt or the other two small bolts....that's it....the whole job literally takes no more than an hour to hour and a half. Here's a pic from underneath...,you can see that I put the bolt through facing up instead of hanging down like in the instructions. Really ingenious way to get a nice rear bar without destructing anything! Look closely and you'll see the silver head of the bolt .......that's it....everything else just bolts up (all provided in the kit).

........no noise.

Here's the diagram....you drill one 3/8 inch hole up through the suspension cross member (I used a nine inch drill extension so I could drill through without removing the suspension cross member), then bolt the"L" bracket onto the cross member, then the flat base plate and bracket (with bushing). The end link goes through an existing hole in A arm. .......and yes Patcon, I have driven it and it really flattens out your hard turns IMO.....cheap handling improvement and an easy installation.

Go to the Futofab website.....click on 240Z rear sway bar.....they have a diagram for installation. You have to drill one 3/8 inch hole. Only takes about an hour and a half. No fitting issues.

Installed the Futofab rear sway bar in my white 1970 Z!

Your car's looking great Steve....is that the same car you took to Savanah?

Black Dragon front bumper.....

The bumpers are a perfect fit........

Ask Brenda (lol).......she knows how important Z STUFF is to us Classic Z Car guys! Just wanted to show me that it had finally arrived.....she actually tipped the driver for his effort!

My UPS delivery just arrived...can't wait to open the bumpers....like Xmas!

EuroDat.....How can you ever get anything done over there.....looks like you guys have the Z's etc. under control......nice car! Sorry....my mistake....thought this car was from Holland!

Here's the two clutches.....the 280 requires the taller collar to equal approximately 92mm. There is a difference, but if you match collar to clutch, either will work in the 70 to 83 trannies (turbo and 2+2 excluded).

Right....code 21-2330 is 70-74 240Z and 260Z......use 21-2121 collar for 70-74 240Z and 260Z. Code 21-2331 is for 75-83 280 Z or ZX non turbo.....use 21-2122 collar for 75-78 coupe 79-83 non turbo.....as Zcars mentioned above these will give you approximately 92 mm from friction surface to collar fingers. 280 or 280ZX use 280 collar.....240 Z and 260Z use 240Z collar as stated in a great big paragraph above. 2+2 and turbo's are different combo.

Cliff....IMO, everyone tries to make this more complicated than need be. No matter the tranny (240Z or 280Z or Zx, 4 or 5 speed, A or B ) they are all the same dimension. The important fact is that the geometry of the clutch arm is correct. Simply stated if you use the shorter 280 Z or ZX clutch, you need to use a 280 collar (taller)to get the proper distance from the flywheel to collar fingers that ZH mentions. Since the 240Z's clutch pressure plate is taller, you need a (shorter) collar to get the same distance......simple as that. You don't need to worry about measuring anything.....280 clutch used with 280 collar works.....240 clutch with 240 collar works....simple as that....in any of the above mentioned trannies (2+2 not included). I have had success with the taller 240 clutches and use them in all my cars since I don't want to mix and match. I've never installed a 280 clutch, so can't comment on which is better.....love my 240's though. Cooper didn't know where the slave cylinder was, so I think we should keep it as simple as possible. He needs to buy either a 240 or 280 clutch with a matching collar. He can measure the collar that comes out and buy the corresponding clutch if he wants to save $12.00 for the collar....his choice. And as far as a flywheel goes, I think he should stick with a refinished stock flywheel IMHO since remember not only he couldn't find the slave cylinder, but still hasn't even adjusted it yet to find out if that fixes his problem! BTW....Throw out bearings are the same for either clutch you use. Also, he should order from MSA IMO....they can match his order with the correct collar whichever route he goes.....and regarding your question above....yes either Amazon clutch will work in the 240Z tranny with the correct corresponding collar......short is 280 ......tall (more expensive) is 240.