Diseazd

Got a rendering of my favorite Z car....

Do it Jeff....If it works you could probably retire! I think my next step is the machine shop....those guys can do anything......certainly don't want to damage any threads. BTW......I ordered a piece of the square angle iron....have my doubt it will work, but will give it a try......shipping was more than the steel.

Hmmmmm.....now that would give me some torque.....I'll try that......drill two holes and thread a couple bolts in for something to grab with channel locks, but let me tell you.....this baby is really welded on. I used heat and brake fluid.....not a budge.

I'll keep everyone updated on how I either pull this off or totally destroy a good strut

I used a dermel wheel to get close.....I'm going o try to drill several small holes from the edge of the dremel cut, then try to tap out sections....cross your fingers. Steve .....good idea, but I don't have one. These nuts really are a pain....and I've got three more struts to do.

I bought new Tokico Blues and Eibachs for the 73......started on the passenger side rear......totally destroyed the gland nut. The tube is still perfect. Anyone have experience in drilling out the gland nut in sections? Gland nuts suck!

Yeah.....We've got oil coming out of the woodwork! Time to get rid of alcohol in gasoline.....get rid of 2% a year for 5 years.....then gone. That would give farmers a chance to adjust! .......out of here!!!!!!

Another "Gotcha Moment".......Just one more point....there is some adjustment in the front valences that will allow the larger tires to possibly clear. Slide under there, loosen all nuts and slide the valences forward....it'll give you more clearance. Always check in forward and reverse though....and in full turn mode.

I use a big adjustable wrench with a long metal pipe (slides over the wrench handle) for leverage.......but I love your enginuity! A big honkin' pipe wrench sounds like fun!

Z therapy carbs and headers .....another $1,000.00....still a heck of a lot cheaper than I would have guessed.....sorry Ryan....guess you were right.

Don't know where you are buying your parts, but I'm building a 3.1 stroker as we speak. With light weight forged pistons and rods, Datsun Spirit's bill for the bottom end alone assembled is $5,150.00, not counting the $1200.00 crank I supplied. The head was $5,500.00 from the Z Doc and that doesn't count carbs or headers.....even the budget Stroker offered here probably was a very expensive investment. Just interested if you recall what you've got in your 3.1 dawg7?

Zedy.....Like I said before....several times.....IMO your car was perfect with the Panasports to start with....you got rid of the pinstripe (good move).....now, paint the rear spoiler the same color as the car, don't put the lower stripe on it, and just keep your tires clean and dressed.....PERFECT!! No charge for the advice. Kinda like this.

Hoarding parts........not a problem......hoarding Z's.....you need expensive therapy.

I'm going to have Eiji build the bottom end. A stroker motor is something totally new for me. He knows which rods and piston heights to use with my Z Doc head. Also, with a stroker motor, there are mods that must be performed on the block. I want to put the rest together.....I just enjoy the build and want to feel like it's my engine. I'm thankful to have Eiji as a friend that will work with me and give me advice on building this motor......he's amazing!

Yes Cliff....SU's will do fine....I only use SU's on all my L28's with Stage III Isky cams. I'm going to break in the stroker with SU's, see how they do, and if they work, I'll run em....if not, I may want to buy your carbs.

Spent the morning with my good friend Eiji Hosomi (Datsun Spirit) today. I'm going to get his help building my new stroker motor , since I'm plowing new territory and want to make sure everything is right.....and no one knows right better than Eiji when it comes to L motors! Here are the specs he gave me: 89mm bore, 83mm stroke (diesel crank), 90.5 mm x 1.29 mm gasket, .4mm above deck, 44cc head volume (I'm using my shaved P79 head) and 4cc piston volume....this should give approximately 10.6 to 1 compression ratio. He's using light forged pistons and rods and my head will have my Isky .490 lift Stage III camshaft. He wanted to go .560 lift, but if this doesn't float the boat, we can always throw on one of his famous N42 modified chamber wonder heads.....I'll think this will be enough juice for me though. Here's some pics I took at Eiji's shop. Guy

I love that you are so blatantly honest Cliff.....the rest of us screw up all the time, we just don't admit it!!! You've got no pride.....I'd love to have a beer with you sometime....Hell maybe 5 or 6! Guy.

$17,851.01.......well bought!

Why don't you go for it Steve.....you can't watch from the sidelines forever!

My guess is that the motor is worth 8 to 10 thousand.....get rid of that ridiculous hood and it'll look civilized too!

I put new wheel cylinders and shoes on the orange 72......she blew a driver side cylinder a couple weeks ago.....cheap Datsun parts....only lasted 45 years!

That's an F54 block not a P79 head All blocks I've dealt with are threaded.....

Cliff.....The large water jacket is a common problem area, but any of the smaller jackets can cause problems too

No Cliff, not that.......If you pull the head and look right behind number 6 cylinder you see the big water jacket (1 1/2 inches or so square)........sometimes I've seen a tiny trench eaten by electrolysis that seeps into number 6. That's why you want to use distilled water and anti freeze to prevent iron, lime and calcium from creating electrolysis, and eating up your aluminum heads.

Absolutely Mark.......good advise.....Not only that, I'll bet if you start with number 6, chances are it's the problem. The large water jacket outlet there seems to tunnel over to the cylinder in a number of cases. Regardless, I'd like to hear back from toneatron83-280z to see if he's tried any of our suggestions. Hard to give further advise if we don't hear back