Diseazd

Good Luck.....I think it would be much easier to buy a used air cleaner with the gaskets intact off of ebay. They're pretty cheap......clean up the inside with 000 steel wool .......no one sees that part anyway! IMO

The kit I bought a couple years back had the two gaskets that fit between the air filter base and the front of the carbs.....no idea on the part numbers.....most air cleaners have these gaskets still intact. All you need to do is carefully mask around them if you're doing a restoration. You might PM Bruce Palmer at Z Therapy.......I think he used to sell restored air cleaners and might be able to help you out on some gaskets.....while you're at it get your SU's rebuilt.....Steve needs the money to try and catch Greg!

Felpro includes that gasket in their top end gasket kit.......the Z Barn will have your bolts. www.zbarn.com

I had the same problem once.....It was a loose connection on the coil. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze all the female connectors on the coil so they slide on snugly. See if that helps.

Beautiful car Julio.....nice work!

You probably did bend a valve if you've got stock valve springs. Just run a compression check......if you bent a valve, you'll read "0" in that cylinder. If you put your finger over the plug hole and it didn't push compressed air against your finger, my guess is you're running "0" compression in that cylinder.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37053 Read this......but once again, it's probably not the problem if you drove it for two years with no problem. PCV valve is a much easier fix. Also, when there is a lot of humidity in the air, your engine can have the appearance of smoking, when it's just condensation burning out of your exhaust system (clears up in 5 or so minutes). Check your plugs for oil if not PCV. Guy

Did you use a higher lift cam? If so did you check retainer to seal clearance? If not, your retainer could be pounding on your valve seals......any cam over .475 lift could cause a problem. The above Felpro seal that Zforce mentions would solve the problem (the seal is shorter than stock for increased clearance). Jon Mortenson has a good thread on that exact problem. Probably isn't your problem, but something to think about. Guy

Double post

I know this is an old post, but not only should you check for slack in the choke cable (off position), buy also put your hand under the carb and push up on the choke nozzle to make sure it doesn't have a little bind that prevents it from closing.

Don't assume anything on this forum....that's why it's such a great source of info.....thanks for that tip.

I found that thin layers of spar varnish (brushed on from a can), steel wooled with 000 between coats gave you a harder less tacky feeling than the spray-on MinWax polyurethane. Don't forget to mark your steering wheel before removing it so the pick-ups for the turn signals are returned correctly. All IMO.......Guy

Absolutely motorman7........the quality is OEM and Eiji labels everything for you. He ships fast and is easy to deal with. He's builds a Heck of a motor too....really loves the L series motor. He's still working on his new website, but you can contact him @ eiji@datsunspirit.com Guy

Just received mine,,,,,WOW! They're perfect.......I hope he runs another 50 sets(maybe 100).....they're that good!!!

I talked with Eiji today (Datsun Spirit) at the Richmond Car Show........he's still selling the original Nissan bolt kits. They're beautiful and everything is marked as illustrated above (Five and Dime). I've used them in my last 4 engine builds. I'm going to post his e mail info on Monday (I've got it at work). Guy

Gary.......Yes....I'll see him tomorrow at the Richmond Car Show. I'll PM you his e mail address Monday. Guy

It's a really good show.....Eiji's bringing his new 73.....it's awesome!

The early E88 is obviously no problem.....if using the later head with the larger exhaust valve, you should probably eyebrow the block for added clearance and flow if the block isn't overbored. The late 73's have the same bore size as the early Z's ......... not sure if they are eyebrowed from the factory for the larger exhaust valve.

Yes to question #1. Question #2 E-31 has 42.5 cc combustion chambers....E88 has 44.7cc combustion chambers. E88 up to 7-73 has the same size valves, then the exhaust valve size was increased to 1.38 inches vs 1.30 inches on E88's before 7-73. The intake valves on both the E31 and E88 were 1.65 inches.

My painter had the area under the windshield rubber to compare.....the match was amazing. You're right .....lighting makes a big difference.....from picture to picture can vary, but in person the match is exceptional.

My brother used to live in Moscow, Idaho.......engineer with Monsanto. Good elk hunting!!!

I once owned a 72 persimmon Z. The interior was white not off white!

Richmond ZCar Club is holding their 8th annual Z Car Show this Sunday at Victory Nissan in Richmond, Virginia.......address is: 11401 W.Broad St,; Richmond, Virginia.......time 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. It's always a great show! For further info log on to www.richmondzcar.com

Thanks.....I should be able to show some full outside paint soon....looking forward to seeing yours!

My bodyman is painting my car as we speak......he said the single stage PPG wasn't a good match. He is using PPG Deltron 2 stage. If you need further info, I'll be glad to contact him for you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643&page=6 The color match is incredible!