Diseazd

Thanks for that info John......I was afraid that I was going to drive the woodruff key through the oil slinger if it wasn't aligned properly. The early 280 dampers are honed out 1/4" by the factory so you can feel the woodruff key lock into the damper. I usually put a mark on the center of the the keyway for installation, but if you misalign the damper, it can gouge the damper or worse.

I bought 2 of the SFI-spec racing dampers from MSA. The fit was poor....I had to take the pulley to a machine shop to modify both the keyway and the bore. It was so tight when I tried to install it out of the box that you would have needed a sledge hammer to install it!!! I ended up putting them on the shelf and buying 2 stock two groove dampers. If you or anyone else wants the racing dampers, PM me and you can have them both for $100.00 plus shipping. The early 280z stock dampers are the best (for either the 240 or the 280) because there is a 1/4" honed area in the bore that allows you to slide into the woodruff key and then tighten it up. Experience is good!!!

The front pages of the the Black Dragon catalog (8-9) has the vin numbers for each year......000013-021000 is a 1970.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31001&page=2 If you look at post 29 of this thread you'll see that the fuel air ratio of the SM's was almost perfect! The dyno operator commented that it looked like a fuel injected engine. Guy

Marty.....I e-mailed the Z Doc in Roanoke......He said the factory says .020, but he has shaved up to .040 to .050 with no serious problems (whatever that means). Guy

Marty.....We used to shave our E 31 heads .015" with no mods and no problem. The "How to Modify" book says you can shave up to .050" off any of the L series heads with stock pistons, but must then modify the chain guides and possibly the tensioner to take up the slack in the chain. Cam tower shims would make the guide and tensioner mods unnecessary.

Thanks Greg.....enjoyed talking to you and your crew at Road Atlanta. How did you do? I had to leave Friday for my Dad's birthday so couldn't watch the race. Please let us know when you're going to run again at VIR. Guy

I hear you Jon.....If they wear out too fast I'll replace with 205-55-16, then reset camber. What's a good number for street application? Lee..... you're right....I do love the way it bites into the turns.

I appreciate everyone's ideas. I think I'll see how these tires wear........then make a decision. Thanks Guy

I've installed Ground Control coilovers on my 72 Z. I set up the car as low as possible for street use. My question is........With the 225-50-16 tires on 16" Panasports, we had to dial in almost negative 3 degrees camber to prevent rubbing on the rear fender lips. I don't want to roll the fenders. Is 3 degrees too much for street use or is that OK? I can go to a smaller tire (205-55-16), but really like the 225-50-16's. Thanks Guy

Disconnect the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft and simply slide it out of the back of the tranny.

Montezuma......I believe the pedal box is the same for the auto's and manuals.......I'm getting ready to convert from auto to manual on my 73 and it looks like all I need to do is bolt in the 2 manual pedals into the pedal box in the auto car ( with the robbed pedals, bushings and springs). Is that right or not Arnie? Guy

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37910 Take a look at this thread.

Front oil seal......pull the radiator, pull the damper, pull out the old seal and install new seal. IMO

Speaking of what does it cost.........How's your restoration coming along Brian?

Russ.....The L28 rods are 130.2mm center to center as are the L26 rods......they have the same Nissan part #'s therefore are the same. The cranks are also the same for the L26 and the L28 (each have the same 79mm stroke) and are therefore the same. What you have with an L24 block and an L28 crank and rods is an L26. The displacement on the the L28 block with L24 crank and rods and L28 pistons is 2575 cc's, or if you bore it out .040" you get a displacement of 2636 cc's ( I'm quoting OZCONNECTION on those numbers). Re the 2.7L Rebello.........I assume he's using the same Diesel crank that they use in the 3.1 stroker.....don't know what rods and pistons Dave uses for that build. Guy

Walter.....You are right....the L24 bored more than .080 will have trouble with ring seal due to cylinder wall flexing according to the old "How to Modify" book. If you want a big bore L24, your best bet is an L28 block with L24 crank, L24 rods and L28 pistons (same pin height as the L24). If you want to build a 3.1 stroker , you'll need an L28 block.....preferredly the F54.

Lee.......You're really doing it right. Looks beautiful! Guy

$1,000.00 is a steal.......Get the number of the machine shop to verify the work. Here's a good thread to help..........http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm Good Luck.

Thanks Mitchell.......If you're ever in Richmond, please look me up. Guy

I don't either Arne.....I just remember when I bid on a nice Texas Z a couple years ago, he mentioned that he had used the 280Z one piece seal with good results. I was wondering if anyone had tried the Nissan 280 seals( he said he had bought them from Nissan)? Guy

Yes.....and the work is beautiful!

Gary.....When I get Carlos to do my head work, I provide all the parts......He charges $450.00 for the head ( includes cleaning the head, installing new hardened seats, new guides, valve job and surfacing the head ). Re the block.......He'll hot tank the block, bore to your specs, hone the cylinders and install brass freeze plugs (brass freeze plugs included) for $200.00. For an extra $50.00, he'll paint the block original Datsun blue. He will obviously charge shipping and handling charges if not hand delivered. Guy

I've heard that the Nissan 280Z (one piece seals) work great in the early cars........anyone tried those?

FYI.......An example of Carlos' work at Citizen's Machine Shop.......An E31 with hardened seats, bronze valve guides and L28 exhaust valves. The block is an L24 bored .040 over. He's a real perfectionist.