Diseazd

Why don't you try running a compression test to make sure the noise isn't valve to piston noise?

Did the engine make the noise before the new chain and tensioner was installed?

All 240Z and 280Z flywheels are interchangeabe. However the Turbo and 2+2 flyheels have a larger facing (240mm) versus the stock flywheel.

I agree with doradox.....Check the harmonic balancer. If it's not torqued properly,your crank pulley will rock on the woodruff key (been there done that). This causes all kinds of noises that sound like it's coming from the chain and camshaft. Mine was caused by the use of a Nismo aftermarket crank bolt and washer that wasn't suited to the stock damper (Thanks MSA and Nismo for not pointing that out).It didn't allow the slinger,worm gear and crank sprocket to lock up tight. The chain noise was only between 1500 and 2500 rpm (sounded like what you described). I don't in a million years think that a different viscosity oil is responsible for your noise. If someone installed a new chain and tensioner, make sure they didn't use that aftermarket Nismo crank bolt and washer.....if not, check the torque on the stock bolt.

Location – Quaker Steak & Lube Newport News at 12832 Jefferson Avenue, Newport News, VA. Rain or Shine. I'll see you Sunday RAT with the white 70.......I assume you meant to say Quaker State not Quaker Steak.....right? Is Todd running the show? Guy

Sounds like Fred's car (ZPIZZAMAN).

Just waiting on the Safari Gold 71 to come home......Chuck is starting to paint.

Nice avatar Jeff!

I think you should "jack-up the radiator cap and put a new car under it"!

Or the front choke stuck in the down position.

This tool makes installing rockers and lash pads a cinch. Everyone should own one......especially if you set up rocker geometry on after-market cams!

Just received my valve spring compressor from Stephen's ad above.......It is a KD 3087......High quality tool. Great price too($15.00 PLUS $10.00 shipping) received it 5 days after buy-it-now date....Thanks so much for everyone's help...you guys are awesome! Guy

I agree.......$8,000 to $10,000.....get rid of the friggin flat-tops. Throw 'em in a box and have some spirited fun with some of Bruce's round-tops!!!!

You're cracking me up Stephen!!!

This is an old thread.

Cheers to you too OZ.....I'll keep you informed. Thanks for your help. Guy

Moonpup....I ordered the $15.00 item that SBLAKE01 offered. I was waiting to see the item before I replied. It looked liked the real deal and even a knock off would be fine for this simple task. I will get back to you as soon as I receive it. Thanks for your help. Guy

Oz....Thanks for your response. Yes I'm checking for proper geometry on each rocker. We installed new hardened seats which as I understand it can be somewhat different in thickness than stock. The intake valves all center the patch with a .190 pad while the exhaust require a .160, so at least there is only 2 sizes required. Yes , since we installed a larger 280 exhaust valve, I notched the block for safety even thogh I'm bored .040"over. One more issue is contact with the valve seal (the Isky valve retainer contacts the seal). Can I have the machinist grind more on the seat to increase clearance or is that a no no. I'm going to install a lower seal (Datsun "A" seal or Felpro Ford seal)to increase clerance.I can't imagine how someone with a .600 lift cam can make the seal clearance needed . Thanks Guy

Thanks everyone....I'll bid this weekend and post results. Guy

Exactly......I'm trying to place my order right now! Thanks so much Moonpup. Guy (update....currently out of stock.)

Anyone know where you can buy a valve spring compressor? The kind where the fingers fit on either side of the lobe and the lever arm pushes down on the retainer. MSA has what I'm looking for, but it's $185.00. Thanks Guy

I just got my E31 head back from the machine shop. I had them install new bronze valve guides, new hardened valve seats, stock L24 intake swirl valves and L28 (larger) exhaust swirl valves with the corresponding larger hardened seats. My question is, the stem height on the exhaust valves are higher than the intakes. I'm installing an Isky Stage II cam, and to get proper rocker geometry, I need a .190 lash pad to center the intakes on the new rockers and a .160 lash pad to do the same on the exhaust. Is it OK to have the two valve stem heights different since I can get geometry right, or do I need to go back to the machine shop and have them adjust the valve stem height so that they are the same? If I need to go back to the machine shop, how do they make the adjustment? Thanks Guy

I learn something new (usually from a screw up) every time I build an engine!

Call Les at Clasic Datsun.....He sells spray cans that are dead on. www.classicdatsun.com

I find it's easier to install the chain and sprocket if you haven't installed the chain tensioner at all. After installing chain and torqueing the chain sprocket, then compress the tensioner boot and install the two bolts and torque the chain tensioner. IMO .........either method will work. Guy