Diseazd

Looking great Charles!!!! Good work.

Why not just go .040 over and not worry about it? The block screens should still be available from Nissan.

Good advice, but there is ZERO rust anywhere and it’ll never be driven in the rain.

Brandon finished the 1987 Pathfinder. All original paint wet sanded and buffed. All new rubber and bumpers and grill painted. It came out better than new!

Brandon had his Pathfinder wet sanded and buffed. Original paint came out better than new…..beautiful!

So sorry about your dog. We went through the same trauma last year with Millie. Nothing worse than losing your best pal…..takes a very long time to heal!

Watching my grandson learn the lines at the local gocart track!!!! Kid’s gonna be another John Morton!!!! IMG_3534.MOV

Sounds perfectly normal to me. L series engines always have valve chatter…..especially with a higher lift cam. I asked the Z Doc about this when he used to build my heads…..he said its the nature of the beast. You might be trumpeting it through the thin headers too. Enjoy it, drive it, L series engines are hard to break…,.believe me I’ve tried LOL.

Hi Charles…..That is a system for making water for Brandon’s huge saltwater fish tank. 300 gallon.

Enjoying watching my son Brandon bring his new purchase back to “Like New” condition. BTW......If anyone knows where we can find any wheel flares, we’re looking hard. 1987 two door. Thanks Guy

No need to balance an engine for 7000 rpm. One more thing. If you install a Stage III cam, you’ll need to geometry the cam with .160 to .180 lash pads (center the wipe pattern on the rockers) but in the E88 head, you’ll also need the shorter valve seals to prevent the valve retainers from contacting the seals with the higher lift. If you guys are doing this build, you’ll need to seek advice as you progress from those on this site that have done this before.

If you go with the Stage III .490 lift can, you would need a set of Isky Springs and some .160 to .180 lash pads to geometry the cam…..your engine buider should be able to handle that.

You have a lot of good, but mostly bad. Get rid of the boat anchor E88. Get an N47, N42 or shave a P79 (the best, but a number of steps to follow). Don’t go forged, but do go flat tops……040 over is good. Dump the dished pistons. Get Isky to grind a stock cam to stage III…..no the valves won’t hit the pistons. Patcon is right…..the higher duration, higher lift cam allows you to run on 91. Put all that together and you should have a motor that is a lot more fun to drive all IMO. All of these changes will require questions on this site as you proceed. We all stand ready to help. “Enjoy the Ride”.

Obviously I like the BRE rear spoilers…….. I got mine from Motorsports…..doesn’t requie 6 bolts. Maybe 4. Why not match with a BRE front spoiler too?

Better save up your money cause “sheep ain’t cheap!” or is that “cheep ain’t sheap?”

Ditto about the perfect car. They last forever and were over engineered for the 90’s. I love mine too!!!

Congrats Jim! A beautiful early Z.

Pull the starter…..get someone to lock the flywheel by inserting a large screwdriver in a gear tooth and rotating till it rests against the engine block. Are you sure about 100 ft lbs? Sounds high. I think some manuals call for less.

………TDC Compression stroke.

Good move Site.......they will now match the patina of the car.......besides, masking and painting requires patience and work......eats into beer drinking time. 🍻

Interesting that your car has a rear sway bar. I don’t think the Z’s ever came with a rear bar from the factory. Do you know if the previous owner installed it?

Great looking 70…..let me boast a little and show you mine LOL. Jim @jfa.series1has one he can show you too!

Yep……From the quick glance I got, she’s quite the find….a real time capsule! I think Jim will agree a great color too. Glad you’re on the forum……If you need any help, we’ll get answers for you……we are all “Legends in our own Minds!” Congrats