zKars

Ton's of 10 x 1.25 bolts in the suspension and other spots on a Z, pretty much any time a 10mm bolt threads into the body or suspension component. Also on trans hanger brackets and insulators. Blue did pull a listing for that specific bolt from a 510 as being the one that bolts the cross member to the trans insulator. But for a Z, its the (earlier 08114 - 02510 number) is the bolt that holds the rear bumper mount to the body. 10x1.5 bolts are only found in the engine block and transmission housings.

I believe I've seen 600 as the number for a full engine/trans package with everything dripping wet. I used to have a double 2x6 across two ceiling trusses from which I hung a chain hoist and pulled full eng/trnas packages for years. Roof is still where I left it.

"patina"

siteunseen has the correct sequence in the picture. The sheet metal style screws with cup washers thread into spring clips that go over the holes in the hatch. That dang panel has to be well sealed to the body or you get exhaust fumes into the cabin via the wide open hatch latch assembly in the back center of the hatch. I imagine the factory envisioned those panels saging with age (they were dead right!) and wanted those screws to help hold them flatter and tighter for longer...

Even the angle grinder he's using near the end has no guard and he's in bare hands. I'm officially embarrased to be a Canuck..... Want to see some really cool lathe work? Search for aluminum spinning like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh2yM_sRGr0 Sorry if you waste your day watching this stuff....

From San Diego it seems. I believe there may be a fairly sizable body of salt water quite nearby.... I'm going to e-mail them and strongly suggest they stop driving the car due to safety reasons....

Only way cam position is directly related to piston position is when they are linked together solidly. This only happens in normal rotation direction with no slack. TDC is only to be measured at the piston, not at the balancer notch/pointer or cam plate notch as this introduces sources of error between TRUE TDC at the piston and those indicating sites. Now all that said, depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

There are plenty of dipsticks around here! Someone can help you for sure. I'm just a bit short of SU cores at the moment....

Re clutch release collar, search on "92mm". This is the total height from flywheel face to place on release collar where the forks touch when you have the right collar. We have an extensive thread that verified this from several users. +/- a couple of mm is okay too.

Longer studs are determined by your choice of wheel and how you want them to sit in the fender well if you find you need a spacer to push them outward. The rotor position is only thing that is moved with the z31 rotor spacer for this upgrade. The hub still fits the strut spindle in exactly the same place, and the wheel mount surface (base of the wheel studs) does not move in or out with this mod. Only other "need for longer studs" I can imagine might be the need to get longer 10x1.25 bolts to put that new spacer between the rotor and hub if the spacers didn't come with new longer hardware. The stock ones are much too short to add that 0.663 spacer. s30_Toyota_frontRotor Adapte.pdf

Those spacers don't affect the wheel studs. Goes between the hub and rotor.

The 3/16 is the tank vent. Just take a look back at the tank where the hard lines turn into rubber going to the tank and vent. Should be self evident.

Fantastic project, definitely looking forward to the progress reports. Sorry no upholstry experience. I'm pretty sure the suitability and quality of the glue will be critical. Regarding the tach/speedo removal issue. If the leather is 1mm thick it will likely cause removal issues. The standard plastic dash covers are likely a bit thinner than this, and they more or less remove any chance of removing the instruments from the front. Now the fact that leather is soft "might" mean the gauges can be weasel'ed out with a lubricant and gentle prodding, but only trial and error will prove this one way or the other. not a show stopper, you can after all, always take the dash out! Good luck!

Do I have to give my speech again? You know, the one about "support our vendors and be thankful someone gives a damn to take these risks to support our hobby?" My soap box is right here, no problem stepping up and doing it again.

I've purchased the K&N washable filters for the air box and found them to be just a bit too thick with the stock gaskets on the housing. This is good and bad news. The K&N filters have rubber top and bottom rings, and thus if the gaskets are removed, the filters fit (and seal) just right! So, if your stock rubbers are shot, remove them and use the K&N filters. It's an E-2910 http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=E-2910 To no-ones surprise I'm sure, I have one good used internal gasket for a 70-72 filter housing hanging around if anyone wants it.

clipsandfasteners.com has some. Search for M6 SEMS or M8 SEMS and you'll find some goodies. SEMS is short for ASSEMBLED, its the keyword for your searches for sure.

Greasing bearings or ball joints or steering racks is not a perfect science. There is no flow path through and past each set of bearing cups, other than through a seal, and when you break a seal, any more you add goes straight out that seal. The best you can do is put JUST enough in until just before it breaks a seal, which is of course impossible to do. Like bolt torque. Torque it until it breaks then back it off a quarter turn. Do the best you can and add the least you dare. BTW, grease does not move in a joint due to motion or heat. It is designed to do exactly the opposite, stay in place. It only flows when frictional forces at the metal contact surfaces get the pressure/temp up enough to make it move/flow to lube the surrounding area. yes, putting grease in your front wheel bearing cover/caps to supply extra grease if the bearings run dry is silly. It just sits there in the cap.