zKars

Great stuff. Thanks Dave! Nice memories. But man, were people more gullible back then about what was acceptable levels of out right fakery and totally impossible stunts? There were about 150 obvious fake or really bad things that were just wrong with that whole sequence. Heck we could make a game our of counting the mistakes and fakes. Mind you we have Bachlorette and "America's got Talent" now, maybe nothing has improved after all....

Eurodat, I do not believe the required force is properly conveyed by the word "tap". Perhaps "bludgeon" is closer. Don't be afraid. You will not hurt anything unless you hammer directly on the metal hub or rotor, or use too small or too soft a piece of wood as the buffer. Support it as Eurodat has suggested, then HIT the wood resting across the hub center HARD and centered with a 2 lb or greater hammer until the halves begin to separate enough to get a good big cold chisel in the gap. Then use the chisel with the above hammer to wedge/separate the halves, working around the circumference. This way you will minimize the blows to the hub circle. These things can be quite "attached" if they've been married for 40 years....

DJ, The internal control your knob or slider is attached to, IS the temperature sensitive switch you are looking for. Vintage air warns of this freeze condition, and it just means your dash control thermostat is just set too cold (and your system is working too efficiently!). Just turn the "cool" knob or slider to the warmest (least cool) temp you need to get the cooling you desire. Too cold a setting will freeze the thing solid as you have discovered. Takes a bit of trial and error to get it right. Not exactly a hi-tech system.

You have a replacement carb, intake and likely exhaust manifold from an earlier Z than your 73. None of the EGR and smog stuff that came with your car are there anymore. No smog, anything, anywhere. Cut the wires of the broken sensor put it back in the housing to plug the hole, and move on to more important things.

As an interesting project, your idea to create a smarter choke light is great. Nothing worse (well, a few things...) than leaving your choke on too long. Wastes fuel, clogs up plugs, chokes small chidren on the sidewalks with the black cloud. But there are some places where computers don't belong. Coffee pots and Datsun's are just two...

Buy an "sand through the hour glass" style egg timer. Put velcro on both ends. Stick to dash on top of tach area. When you start your car and put the choke on, turn it over and stick other end to the dash. When the sand runs out, push your choke off.

there is a thread on hybridz about a 6 speed swap. Not simple or cheap, requires welding two bell housings and some mighty exact line-up...

Pull the domes and make sure that both jets are flush with the bridge with the adjusters all the way in, or at least both are the same and close to the top. Did you remove the needles from the piston? Back in the right place? You are definitely running rich.

Good to hear you got that solved. Now you'll lay awake nights wondering what changed that caused it...

Look at the engine and find the vacumm accuation device that has a hook/arm that touches the throttle linkage. There is a way to adjust it mechancially so it doesn't push as far. Other option is that something changed the vacuum and it now pushes farther than it did before, or it got bumped by accident.

Removing the hatch strut AND the bracket will give you the clearance you desire. Warmth (the panel, not you...) and patience are key here. Most panels get cracked at this stage, take your time. I'm assuming this is a panel you just took out and not a new one...

So, I get 222,000 hits on google for "flice water". Now I want to believe that Idahokidd found that ad in a way that is just part of the usual "sharing of cute stuff" that permeates our lives the interweb. Still funny as hell. Then there's a part of me that wishes, that maybe, just maybe, that he accidently found this while cruising Craig's List for Datsun stuff, and found someone nearby who actually thinks someone will spend $2 on gas + $2 more to come get a "real deal" on a really nice pair of flice waters...... I know I would.

Incredible. They even spelled it that way twice. Haven't laughed that hard in a long time. Thanks!

Ah yes. Kia is great stuff. Even new from kiaparts.com its only $46'ish a side. And its a proven solution, and trivial to install, though not perfectly stock in appearance of course. I've even used it on the hatch.

Have you tried 411.com? just type in the person's first and last name and the city, and get all matches. Free.

The road to success is full of detours. Some of the detours are paved in 75 durometer Buna-n.. Details details...

Now that I know some more trade names for the stuff... Thanks Chas! how about this for stock? McMaster-Carr "This economical grade of Buna-N offers good resistance to oils and solvents but is not as weather resistant as other rubbers. Also known as nitrile, acrylonitrile butadiene, and NBR."

Heck Summit racing has a wide variety of Holley Nitrophyl floats, again, an available source of raw materials. Haven't found anyone that sells Nitrophyl resin raw components to "cast your own"...

So close.... MossMotors.com - Restoration Parts And Accessories For British Cars Perhaps one could do a bit of cut/shape/glue of these to our old float armature? Its just a block of Nitrophyl, make it what you need to be.

I taking quite an interest in SU's lately. The more I learn the more I like, and more I yearn to improve the breed. Let me play with float ideas and I'll let you know what I find out. Get my PM Bruce?

Bruce, what is it about the existing floats that make them need to be replaced? Aren't they solid material? It is something to do with the metal frame? Are the float bodies deteriorated? Can't imagine ways to help unless we know the details. If its the resin that needs replacing, I was thinking about other ways to replace just that part. Precisely weighted ping pong balls? Styrofoam? Just need something with the same density, yes? I'm flush with ideas once I get going!

Sadly, I'm pretty sure there is very little you can do to make other people more aware of their surroundings, or to be better drivers. Even red flashing roof top lights and cattle prods are likely in-effective to wake some people up and make them pay attention. Even something is better than nothing though, I'de see if a thin strip of that stuff applied to that very thin chrome strip around the tail light trim panel would add enough reflective area to be effective. I just wouldn't want to stick big strips of that stuff all over the tail light panel or along the back edge of the hatch or something, it would look pretty tacky in the day time, wouldn't it?

OK, I can't take this any more. I'm going to have to sadly put this thread on "ignore". I can't make it to this one and its KILLING me. Why didn't you people tell me these things were so much fun? Why did I have to finally go last year and find out what I've been missing? How am I going to afford to get to all of the future conventions? How am I EVER going to be able to thank the organizers enough for what they do? I can't even dream of a way to turn it into a "business" trip as there isn't a lick of oil or gas any where NEAR Nashua NH. Unless I'm missing something. Someone, anyone with ANY oil/gas operating company, invite me down for a "meeting", please!!!! Maybe there's offshore oil we can find together, its perfectly safe, really! Lobsters love it. Oh fine then, everyone who IS going, just go and enjoy yourselves, and don't let Mad Mike talk to you, cause you never know... See you next year in SD!!!

That don't look like no SU float I ever seen.....

So you're at least 45, hence the number of ladies you can drive around with isn't likely your FIRST consideration, so its easy. Keep the one that makes you the happiest when you drive it. Simple. Just measure your smile.