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Looks like I have mostly parts candidates in the hoard. None of then work smoothly.

Here is how this one was wired: Main GND (B) is a male spade that pushes into a female held in that little box. Red/Black (RB) is the GND from the door switches. Red/Blue (RL) is +12V from the fuse box. And they're both female spades. You'll notice that the main GND can be interrupted by the switch and that the RB GND from the doors is independent of the dome switch. Now. To refurbish this one AND try putting it back together - so that it still works...

The first two pics are some 510 4 door outer door/window trim pieces. The second two are 510 2 door outer door/window trim pieces. The rubber looks to be the same shape to me for each of them. The next two pics show the groove on the inside top edge of the door where the inner rubber w/s goes. It is a simple u channel. The last three pictures are of NOS inner rubber weather strips for the 2 door. The front and rear doors of the wagon should use the same inner and outer w/s from a design standpoint, right?

Let me take a look. I only have a 2 door, not a wagon. I have some NOS outer stainless strips. And I may have the inner strips as well. I will try to get some pictures for you.

Weird - it's a turn-y switch - it rotates into or out of contact by pressing the button. That little black disc (brass contacts on the bottom side that I didn't take a pic of...) gets turned by the shaft above it. So, it needs to turn freely, have an undamaged top side (the little ramp, triangle thingy's), and the entire mechanism needs to slide / move freely, and all the contact brass needs to be clean. I didn't notice any old grease or lubricant in this one. I was surprised that the "top" was just held on by a couple of clips on either side. Everything is PLASTIC and we don't have very good luck with PLASTIC here in the DESERT, so I was a little nervous. I heated the whole thing up a bit and used an extremely small screwdriver to pry one side at a time. First side was pretty easy - the second was quite a bit harder but eventually the "top" came off and revealed the underlying surprise. The switch is indeed simple and you can test continuity straight through on the rivets both sides or the brass the rivets tie down. Also check continuity through to the bulb holders to make sure corrosion hasn't killed the circuit between the switch and the bulb.

Yeah, that's fair. It's real Ship of Theseus situation.

For the BEST rubber in your Datsun door..... simply use.. Rubbers - S30 World

Very much agree but at the end of the day interesting to see.

I wonder if it’s within factory specs.

I noticed my OE muffler had a leak so decided to tackle replacing it. Only thing I could find that was near OE was a Bosal 280-520. this has a flange that goes from the Catalytic back to the muffler tip. Cheap at only about 50$ with various discounts. 1st thing I noted after pulling the OE was the pipe from the flange back was not as long as the OE before making the bend down the diff. It was about 4" too short. I am guessing that the CAT converter on my CA car maybe short than a standard resonator. Since I don't have a resonator to compare its only a guess. Anyway bought some pipe and various fittings thinking I would fabricate a joiner and use U clamps to connect it all up. After sleeping on it, and think how hokey a bunch of U clamp would look I decide welding was the answer. Now welding is something I have not touched since back in HS shop class back in the 70's and that was arc and gas, but figured it would be fun to try. Got a cheap 170amp HF mig and some gear to go with it, did not have enough gas to try the shielding gas so used the flux wire. Tried a few beads on the scrap pipe I had left over after cutting out the needed joining piece. Wow this is not easy, no granted I prob had everything working against me, cheap welder, flux wire, thin gauge steel , running a bead around a radious, but after a while I was at least getting consistent arcs and wire feed. I unplugged the ECU and put the pieces back on the car, using the big welding magnets to hold in place I managed to get a few tacks in place so I could remove and finish weld. I ringed it with small tack welds and then tried my best to bead it. I prob ground off 90% of my work and would re do until it looked like I had managed a solid unit. I pressure checked it with some soapy water, fixed a few leaks, painted the whole area with some high temp paint and reinstalled. The fitment with the 4.5" added was perfect, too bad I had to add that extension. Exhaust was quieter than before (I would hope all this was done for a purpose) and I know the exhaust gasses are now all coming out of the tail pipe and not from the front of the muffler like before. I clearly need to practice a LOT with the welder but it was fun and a nice learning experience. I cant recommend the BOSAL 280-520 only because I don't know for sure it would fit on a NON CA car, if it did then I would say its a great value. As is its still a good value if you have some welding ability.