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Use the wheel to get close and the brake lever for final adjustment. Tighten the wheel until the drum barely goes on, then pump the brake lever a few times. If the self-adjustment is working the lever will only come up about half-way. As you drive the car occasionally you'll notice that parking brake lever got tighter as the wheel moves a notch.

The original pump includes an inlet strainer, but I don’t think the O’Reilly’s E16078 has one. In principle it’s the same style as the Bosch 0580 254 044 that replaced the factory unit. If you want to add a pre-filter, you can install two 5/16" filters in parallel to avoid fuel starvation and prevent cavitation in the pump. Their only purpose is to protect the pump, the filter up front will protect the injectors. 280 Series Fuel pump Alternatives Rev 1.pdf

It will even both sides out. It affects the adjustment of the shoes so will affect the brake pedal. Can't remember for sure but I think that you will also feel the brakes apply a little higher on the pedal after a notch gets taken up. It's one reason that seems rational for converting to disc brakes if you're in to precise brake performance. Should emphasize though that you need to be sure the parts are clean, lubricated, and not worn, in order for the system to work correctly. You can test it with a drum off by pulling the cable by hand and watching the parts move, I think.

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

The FSM describes how to adjust the horn sound and its actually very simple (screw on the back with a locking nut). Not saying they'll sound like a Jag, but altering the way they sound is possible. I believe each horn is set to a different tone.

It was nice to see truthful information about this issue from another experienced person to cut through the character assassination that passes for knowledge from some of the members of this page.

Steve, though I’m sure you’re not surprised, it worked! Thank you!

It is also important not to mix adjusters from one side to the other, as I believe they are handed

You could get either in a 77. The numbers don't mean anything. Your picture is not very good. Here's some FSM stuff that should help.

Up front in the area of the console look for blue tape around the wire harness. That's where you should find the female plug with 2 wires. Put a jumper across the plug and you should then have power back at the tank for the electric pump. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop to shut off the pump in the event of a crash.

Sorry, this 240Z dash is not in the car but here are pictures of the dash wiring and the unused connector that could deliver power back to a fuel pump. The wiring comes down the right side of the heater slider assembly with all the wiring to the fuse box and center console connections.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!

That is because you do not completely disassemble your switches before restoration. You also have not unlocked the hidden performance upgrade in your turn signal switches due to certain modifications.