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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/21/2025 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Whether it was the best approach or not , I decided to slug/sleeve the A pillars . I felt a sizable sleeve -3” would give plenty of weld points and help keep things aligned . I had kept lots of A pillars material from where I cut these roofs up . The complex part is that the pillars taper ever so slightly . Also tough is making square cuts to match one roof to the other roof pillars . Another obstacle was I realized the drivers A pillar on my replacement roof was bent back -likely from the accident the car was in . It was a hard hit- shoving the LS2 back into the firewall . Windshield was still in the car he said . Getting the height right on the A pillars was going to be the big challenge . In the first pic of this thread you’ll see I built a support out of angle iron for the roof to sit on . I used my Z to measure from the seat bolt hole to roof line . This support also helped to have something to set the roof on while I made adjustments. Thank god these roofs are light.
  2. SteveE: Thanks for your reply and I look forward to seeing your pix. As it turns out, I have been collaborating with Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) to update the thread to which you've referred so that it can be a permanent tech article with lots of pix for the S30 community. With luck I'll get that done later this fall.
  3. Today I broke my back it feels like. All the things I've done to the car aren't worth a flip when I can't back out of my driveway. So today I dug up some asphalt to save my oil pan and my exhaust from The Z Store.
  4. First picture looking done from top Second picture door side Thrid picture body side The boot was a straight section about 6" long. They came from Dave many years ago. The boots have been installed for 5 or 6 years, but only used heavily for this past summer. All seems good! I have power windows and power lock wires running through them.
  5. Thanks for those pix, SteveE, as they are very helpful. Judging from its relationship with the door jamb light switch position, it looks to me like you drilled into the lower part of the upper door hinge recess on the body side. I measured the bottom of that recess to be roughly 55 mm below the center of the lowest bolt securing the hinge to the body. In my photo below I've marked spot welds with small "dots" of black electrical tape and the bottom of the recess with the horizontal piece of tape. And the "X", you ask? That's where I'm going to center the 3/4" hole for the bootie, which pair should be arriving tomorrow. As for the hole in the door, it looks like yours is at the same height at the lower door hinge bolt. From feeling around inside my door, that's where there's just a single thickness of metal (immediately below it feels like there's a double thickness). So my drill point there is also marked with an "X".
  6. Car is running fine with the msd blaster 2 coil. Tach is working.
  7. Even though Grannyknot made his gutter extensions out of sheet metal and welded them into place before applying his the final paint coat, you could just as easily fab up something similar and just glue them in place. Make them out of 'L'-section plastic (hobby store) to address rust concerns and paint them body colour before gluing to the hatch body sill.
  8. Bonus Nazareth track -
  9. Seppi I have done this project. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I followed a theard by Dave Irwin (zsonthebrain)? My car is a "72" I removed the doors to drill the holes. If you can find his thread he shows where to drill. Dave provided me with the rubber boots. Steve
  10. Knowing the right search terms is the real trick. I did a first search and turned up the correct description and then searched with that. Some of those pieces look like plastic. Some look like rubber. I would prefer rubber if I could get it
  11. Thanks, Patcon. I searched Amazon and eBay but apparently was not using the correct terminology to turn up what you have found.
  12. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Power+Window+Door+Jamb+Wiring+Boots+Accordion+Style&crid=1SAUDNSLHJ5M7&sprefix=power+window+door+jamb+wiring+boots+accordion+style%2Caps%2C112&ref=nb_sb_noss https://www.amazon.com/SSN-Compatible-Street-Truck-Black/dp/B0CR68XQ6L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2G81U9YU0FNI5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8fpATH9944czeb9MYItu1Le0STj2Skzrehs8O3ylkQlZWG_8mc2ITQMmIb3fVHnHydfL7yFYnJmvy08Eco2PZXf669mG9374bVw_ofqceG9s3ZxYqdQxoZ-UCOcU4h8C4V9_u25Lu67HEwluoO79kBFg37vMRXXb56L57UyorLEvzo9JwnDlrzKbUIQeGv2leVvJ_gruMz0fNGYBk_-vWQeiHE8fkAWWU2wv2hZOZ-M.n15BblK1JXL0OfrkJ43UCjifE9qWW9-FI0qXMdVCFDw&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire%2Bloom%2Bfor%2Bautomotive%2Bdoors&qid=1758401923&sprefix=wire%2Bloom%2Bfor%2Bautomotive%2Bdoors%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-3&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Power-Window-Wiring-Boots-Accordion/dp/B0BN1QMKMZ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2G81U9YU0FNI5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8fpATH9944czeb9MYItu1Le0STj2Skzrehs8O3ylkQlZWG_8mc2ITQMmIb3fVHnHydfL7yFYnJmvy08Eco2PZXf669mG9374bVw_ofqceG9s3ZxYqdQxoZ-UCOcU4h8C4V9_u25Lu67HEwluoO79kBFg37vMRXXb56L57UyorLEvzo9JwnDlrzKbUIQeGv2leVvJ_gruMz0fNGYBk_-vWQeiHE8fkAWWU2wv2hZOZ-M.n15BblK1JXL0OfrkJ43UCjifE9qWW9-FI0qXMdVCFDw&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire+loom+for+automotive+doors&qid=1758401923&sprefix=wire+loom+for+automotive+doors%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-5
  13. That's exactly what I did. Perfect!
  14. Arguably the rarest of the fairladies…..
  15. Glad to be alive . I’m a lucky guy for sure . It’s fancy but it’s all business too:)
  16. I've been stuck on this album for a couple of weeks now. I'll put on something else and after that finishes I'll say to myself... Let's give John Hiatt - Walk On another play.
  17. A few years ago when I was looking for a 5-speed transmission for my 1976 280Z project, I searched and searched for photos of the early ("wide ratio") and later ("close ratio") versions side-by-side. I never really found any, but I did acquire one of each, and thought I'd post pictures of them for easy comparison. The main things to notice are all on the rear extension housing: The wide ratio gearbox has two exhaust hanger ears on the rear extension housing, the close ratio has only one (on the driver's side). The wide ratio has a dust collar/shroud surrounding the end of the tail piece, the close ratio does not. The close ratio box has a cover for the reverse loickout mechanism on the left side, the wide ratio does not. On the close ratio, the screw that secures the speedometer drive assembly to the rear extension housing is located at 6 o'clock (toward the bottom of the transmission), on the wide ratio the screw is at 12 o'clock (toward the top). The striking rod guide (where the shift lever attaches) is slightly wider/taller on the close ratio than on the wide ratio. Overall, the wide ratio rear extension housing has s smoother, more rounded appearance.
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