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Installed the freshly restored seats in the orange 72

No marks to be found - there is a strong smell of Chlorine though.

Silver is tough paint to spray evenly - even tougher to match ("even tougher" I said... nearly impossible). You want someone with a good deal of experience spraying silver metallic and that's not generally cheap. We always had very good luck with our supplier (Sherman Williams Automotive) and Datsun colors - what they had was very close to factory. I think we shot three silver Z's. Datsun metallic base paint is fairly inexpensive (for paint) and fairly consistent in price. It's the clear and hardener that will have a great deal of price variation. Be forewarned that cheap clear usually means greater LABOR cost or settling for a poorer outcome. Each painter you talk to will have a preference for the clear they use and they will have a reason they do so. If you go against their preference don't be surprised by additional labor or cost to get the clear looking the way you want it to. And please don't argue with the guy - after he's sprayed the paint you told him to. (Here in Phoenix our cost of just the final materials (sealer, base coat, clearcoat) of the brands we prefer would be just over $1,000 (using a very good clear but by no means the most expensive) and not talking of labor, fillers, or primers. We got a pretty good discount - and a painters discount may or may not be passed on to you. Paint cost is the very cheapest part of the job.) If you want the silver "to pop", spray dark sealer under the base. If you use a lighter sealer the silver metallic will look "washed out" and will not have as much character, For the most part paint IS NOT opaque. Underlying colors will have a visual effect - subtle but definitely noticeable. I personally despise masking around weather strip and trim. It may look acceptable at first but will eventually present a myriad of issues. Early on, we did one at a customers request and immediately afterwards made it a policy to NEVER do it again. You think you may be saving on labor cost to mask rather than remove but in reality labor saving is minute and the result is poor. We had several Z's come to the shop years after a "masked trim and weather strip" spray looking needlessly shabby. Pull the windows and trim and get paint underneath all the gaskets, trim, and weather strip. My last piece of advice - if you can't afford what the experienced painter quotes you just don't do it - don't look for a cheap quote. And, with a Z, you CANNOT hold him to an initial ESTIMATE (unless he doubles up). There are WAY to many unseen things that may pop up. (I said "MAY pop up"... Sigh... I can't remember a single Z in our shop that didn't have surprises unknown to the owner AND to us!) Oh,, ya,, we shot that. VVV

Looks to be the same, although I have never had the Subaru one in my hand. Here is a write up on the two. JDMjunkies.ch240Z: Subaru R180 LSD Diff swap Parts - JDMjunkies.chSo, with the recent progress on the chassis and body, i thought it’s time to kickstart some long-pending projects. One thing i had in mind for a while was to fix the differntial. It was not really bro

Hi Charles…..Thanks, no, I bought the foam from Resurrected Classics, the seat covers from Mike at Banzai Motorworks and had a good upholstery shop put them together. Some things I leave to professionals 🤑

Haha!! Exactly. ☺️

Measuring resistance from 7 to 8 will provide difficult to interpret results. The best way to check the AFM slider is to put battery voltage across 9 to 6 (positive on 9, negative on 6), and then measure the voltage between 7 and 8 while you move the wiper around. This process is documented on page EE-13 of the 77 FSM) The AFM is Dr. Bosch black magic and voodoo. As for the dent in the wiper? I don't know what you mean. Can you circle what you're talking about on your pic?

LEDs aren't very voltage sensitive. I'm trying to figure out the voltage drop, though. Maybe I can get out to the garage tomorrow and take some meter readings for you to try to replicate. I'm wondering if the hazard switch may be corroded/crudded up enough that it's a choke point under load.

I agree, that seems cheap...

I'm enjoying some cooler than normal temps in September, so I washed the 260Z and took it to a car meet.

Thanks for the words of wisdom and encouragement everyone. I appreciate the support! I've been driving The OG around for a couple days ago, and my back isn't the happiest. I've changed not much else in my life in the past week, so I'm assuming it's the seats. There's no springs, and I assume all the straps underneath have turned to dust. I've got a couple car seat cushions on order from Amazon. They'll be here before the trip, and I'm hoping one of those options helps. I don't have time to do anything with the seats the right way. So today, I got my shift boot installed. Put the grommet in the right way (with help from @SpeedRoo): And then promptly folded it correctly down into the abyss where nobody will ever see it. Haha!!! So it's installed the correct way, but nobody except me will ever know. And, of course, all of you: 4 DAYS!!!

This should probably be in the carb discussion section rather than electronics.

A good one. And you can't even here the Beatles.