Leaderboard

Hi Zed…..No, Chuck’s Frame Shop is a restoration shop…..mostly Porsches. He did two of my cars….both took two years. He, in my opinion is the absolute best…..no corners ever cut. I also use him for other items like spoilers…front and rear and he took the side panel strip off my silver 73 and matched the original paint to perfection. I don’t know the seller, but the owner is a good friend and never lets price get in the way of a great restoration. Here are a couple Chuck did for me.

Just for clarification, the transmission info on page 7 has no relevance to this thread. We will use the original stock transmission for this build. Thanks for the info on the antenna. I added a couple pics for reference. I do not think it is an antenna ground wire as it is very long. It extends approximately 20" beyond the antenna power wires. Also, it breaks out at the junction of the speaker wires and left signal lamp. I can confirm that the wire is black, so most likely a ground. It also has a heavy black shielding over it, so maybe it was intended to pass through the body to something near the fuel tank. Interesting. Also added a pic showing the 10/69 date of the harness. Added a pic of the rear break springs installed just for the Captain 😊 I rebuilt the front brake calipers with new seal rubber, retainers and pads. I cleaned them up first and then hit them with a clear coat to prevent future rust. (Notice the ones on the current 1970 BAT car). I then installed them on the front stuts so they will be ready to install once the body shows up. The body shop work is progressing, always the long pole. The passenger side rear quarter panel has been welded in place. Right front section behind fender has also been replaced, battery tray removed and holes plugged on right fender that once supported the aftermarket AC. The rear hatch has been installed and the flanges that attach to the hinges have been welded up. Next to be installed will be the lower rear panel. And, once the rotisserie is free, the new floor panels will be installed.

Wow…..This is a tough crowd. Not everyone restores a Z to exactly mimic what came off the showroom floor. It just doesn’t get much better than this, and he probably won’t make much if anything on the sale ( I’ve used Chuck on all my restos and he ain’t cheap). Also, the little hole in the air cleaner for a couple thousand miles is a no event, but I use a wine bottle ratchet cork to seal mine. Amazing that he came up with a rust free Series I…..that just doesn’t happen very often on a 55 year old Z.

But in all seriousness, it's a beautiful car. It's a very well done resto-mod, not a period correct restoration.

That big bid to $71,970, from a previous bid of $28,500, is still interesting. Like somebody that owns some already wants to be sure the "value" stays high. My cynical view. I don't think that seller understood the point of the question, of unfiltered air in to the newly rebuilt engine. Actually there isn't much discussion about the engine. Normally a Datsun Spirit engine would be a big deal. But it only cost about 8% of the bid value, so far.

That's what I've done I my 1/71 leaving everything hooked up and complete.

A sloppy resto-mod (how I hate that expression)

Maybe he did what I did. Covered it from the inside? I used a piece of Gorilla tape from the inside instead of a chair leg cap on the outside. I was in a hurry, probably need to check that soon? 🤫

Beautiful car. I'm no expert on the early cars, but at quick glance, here's a couple things that caught my attention: Sucking dirty air into the clean side of the air filter (because the did not cap off the nipple from the deleted the anti-backfire valve system). Unconnected flow guide valve. Aftermarket progressive springs. Plastic fan. Boot on headlight connector out of place and doing nothing. Later design alternator. (Was mentioned on BAT) At least one screw missing on the heater blower motor. Not as grievous as the brake master, but an incorrect clutch master for the date of the car. Also, it looks like the car had been Zibarted. You can see the plugs on some of the pics. Notably missing from the rear side of the RS door jamb near the latch plate. That's the area where they said they put in a new quarter panel. Easy to spot if you compare the right an left side pics. And shouldn't this car have the "D" hubcaps with the valve stem holes in the center of the spokes instead of being in the center of the windows?

Havent seen this one posted here yet: Bring a Trailer1970 Datsun 240Z Series IBid for the chance to own a 1970 Datsun 240Z Series I at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #194,522.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I moved the horn relay to the interior side of the firewall. It was previously shown out in the engine compartment, but in reality it's actually located on the left side of the interior near the driver's left knee and the hood release pull. Changed the way the alternator and voltage regulators make connection to ground. And made a couple of minor wire color changes. And lastly... Thanks to the help from the folks here, it now has condensers. <V7.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 7.0.pdf