Leaderboard

You know what’s real damned annoying? The 1973 Vintage Dashes 240z dashboard is not a 1973. It had gone onto the frame really nicely until I ran into this issue: The light/hazard switch bracket definitely does not fit anymore. When I pointed it out to them they confirmed that they didn’t actually make a 73 dash. Instead they make 1972 without the indentation and call it a 73. The 1973 cars used a pull knob for the hazard switch instead of a toggle switch, so try to make everything work and you’ll notice the switch is recessed too far. The fix is easy enough: make a new bracket. I just had to make a series of prototypes by hand, draw up the schematic, and send it to SendCutSend to be made. I comped it up with cardboard and then thin steel I could bend with my fingers. It’s pretty straight forward. It’s really just a question of time. The new bracket arrived this week and it’s almost prefect. The only change I would make would be to slope the bit that connects the top to the bottom so it isn’t near the wire on the lighter socket. It’s not touching now, but I put electrical tape over it just in case. Don’t want a short! If you buy one of these dashboards and need one of these brackets, let me know and I’ll send you the file in a DM. Having it produced costs about $45.

You should sell the file to Vintage Dashes for $100.

We saw quite a few Z's here in Arizona (and coming from California) that previous owners had "sun roofs" installed during that era when they were a thing. After 20 or 30 years the "sun roof" leaked - and no replacement parts. So we did a few roof skin transplants from donor Z's. If you remove the roof with the underneath skeleton intact you can drill the spotwelds on the donor from the bottom (drill the underneath skeleton to separate the skin - thus leaving the donor skin mostly unharmed. Drill the damaged skin (or skin to be replaced) from the top thus leaving the roof skeleton intact on the project car. Cutting at the junction between roof skin and quarter skin is fairly simple once you remove the body lead (melt the body lead out) that covers this junction. And it's a great place for your weld when installing the donor skin since it's going to be covered with fill. With the A pillar, the replacement skin will only require a small weld that's easily ground down and smoothed in - if you remove just the damaged skin (or skin to be replaced) and leave the skeleton and pillars intact on the project car. My advice is to remove the roof so it can be used as a donor in this manner. Plus it leaves the quarter panels intact.

Show how everything is wired with clear, detailed photos. How did you test the plug for no spark? What is the voltage on the coil with the key in ON? What is the gap and dwell on the points?

Who knows with 240z prices in the toilet, not as much as I sold it for😉

Happy to help, should be easy to make fabricate one up. Let me know if you need dimensions, I can measure up one of mine.