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So I finally got back into the shop this weekend. A while back I was working on reworking some marker lights. Jim Arnett watched me struggle along with that for a while before he said "I have a nice set of running lights all redone if you're interested?" So yes, I'm interested! Jim does nice work and I got them in a week or so ago. I put the rears on yesterday and a engine room light that also came from him. I also got a new shift boot and rubber boot for the end of the transmission I also figured out how to get the maxima calipers apart There is a clip way down inside you need to get out I bought these snap right pliers. They work really good Needs some clean up Rebuild kits come in on Monday

I'm working on the glove box lid, had to repair the hinge, repaint the hardware, etc. So like a dope I left some cleaner on the lid too long and it discolored it 😞 I knew better but got distracted with something, lost track of time, and came back to a faded grey for the color of the outside lid. At this point I was open to trying to paint it and since I have a bunch of the SEM stuff for the panels I'll be doing next month I figured I'd give it a try. Then I had another idea. I recently restored the radiator and used this to paint it when done. It came out beautiful BTW I had also used it for the inner door sil kickplates and those came out great too So I figured lets give it a try on the lid. Well, it came out nearly perfect match to the dash lol. This rad paint sprays on so thin since its made for radiator fins and dries so fast it was really easy and i didn't need to go through all the SEM prep and sandless and all that. Pictures don't do it justice but here goes When I'm ready to do all the panels I'll give this a try to see how it holds up and report back. Maybe an easier alternative for some.

The market is soft, very soft. Let's see where the bidding falls on the blue with white 240 currently on BAT. Sorry but nothing to do with your astute observation Zed Head

Here's an interesting one where BaT relisted a car and said that the previous high bidder did not follow through, but they still show the car as sold on the first listing. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-pontiac-firebird-74-2/#comments-anchor This is a relist after the vehicle was previously sold on BaT in July 2024 and the winning bidder failed to follow through with their commitment to purchase. This was not due to any fault with the vehicle. The winner’s participation on BaT has been restricted.

Then choke is off, move to ignition.

What you really need to check is that the choke nozzle is fully seated (up) into the carb with choke off. Black thing in the picture. Then put the choke on and check the nozzles, they should pull down, away from the carb. Do that a few times to make sure they arent hanging up. If the little rubber fuel lines are stiff, that can make them hang up. You can loosen the screw at the cable and push up on the nozzles to make sure they are seated (blue arrow), then tighten. Fast idle is adjusted from a different place. The main thing is the nozzle seating all the way with the choke lever off.

Oh boy... If you unscrew the cables there will be NO movement.. you have to make sure that the chokes bottom out (NO shoke) then put the choke knob in the almost close position (Like 3-4 mm off the closed position..) them screw the cables tight and if you then pull the choke they will come ON.. (enough) (You must be a theoretical physicist hihi... 🙊)

I'm sorry but i don't know what you mean here.. That's normal! If i pull my choke all the way on my 240z it's at 2500 rpm easely.. just don't! 🙂 The choke is there to get it started when cold (weather) After start push the choke back to about 1200/1500 rpm depending on the cold.. (Not very cold overthere i guess Panama?) As i said, a little slack should be in both cables but there should be some reaction f you pull the lever halfway or even on half an inch..

It is very sticky. For most of the failed attempts, the tape and adhesive came off together. On one failed attempt, I didn't realize that some of the adhesive had stayed behind, and when I put a new piece on, it showed underneath the new piece. Removal of the adhesive using 3m adhesive remover was difficult. The 3/8" width I bought is perfect. Where I did not apply it perfectly straight, you could see a tiny sliver of extra tape off of the edge of the part that is supposed to be silver. I trimmed that by running an X-acto knife like this along the edge and then pulled the sliver of excess off. I only needed to trim one of them for a span of a couple of inches. I found some more information about the tape. It appears it may be able to handle hot car interiors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C5PYV9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 This product appears to be the same: https://store.tapesandtech.com/mylar-polyester-tapes/mmyp-1-metalized-polyester-film-tapes.html